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WVO for Dummies - need clarification

maddawg308

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Okay, I apologize if I am beating a dead horse, but I am stupid and need someone to answer some questions about using WVO as fuel. I am helping a friend get set up with the purchase of several deuces, and he would love to power them with something cheaper than normal diesel.

Any help answering the folllowing questions would be greatly appreciated:

1. Can you run a deuce/CUCV on straight WVO?
2. What preparation is required for running a deuce/CUCV on WVO, or is none required at all?
3. Below what temperature can you not run straight WVO, to prevent clogging the lines with solid grease?
4. How difficult, in terms of PITA, is it to run a deuce/CUCV on WVO, compared with just pulling up to a pump and tanking up with diesel? In other words, is it worth it?
5. How long can you store WVO in a in-ground fuel tank without it going bad, for the purposes of using it as fuel?

Thanks guys.
 

gimpyrobb

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Well the major differance is the motors. The deuce is designed to run on more than diesel, the 6.2 isn't. Alot of answers to your other questions are wvo specific. There are many different veggy oils, all have their own propertys. Someone else will have to get more specific as I haven't used wvo as fuel yet.
 

cranetruck

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maddawg308 said:
...
1. Can you run a deuce/CUCV on straight WVO?
2. What preparation is required for running a deuce/CUCV on WVO, or is none required at all?
3. Below what temperature can you not run straight WVO, to prevent clogging the lines with solid grease?
4. How difficult, in terms of PITA, is it to run a deuce/CUCV on WVO, compared with just pulling up to a pump and tanking up with diesel? In other words, is it worth it?
5. How long can you store WVO in a in-ground fuel tank without it going bad, for the purposes of using it as fuel?
Thanks guys.
1) Yes, but for 100% WVO, it must be heated. Mixed with diesel run about 20% max.

2) It requires extra handling. Pouring WVO into tank from small containers will usually cause a spill, which gets messy..I have left many a greasy spot on the pavements in rest areas across the country. :oops:

3) 100% WVO operation will require a two tank system so that the veggie oil can be heated to about 140°F or so before switching over. You start and stop on regular diesel. This system will work at any temperature.

4) See 2). It's worth it because it provides options. Hardest part is all the filtering required before it goes into the fuel tank. It's best to collect the oil hot from the restaurant before it gets contaminated with water and detergents.

5)If the WVO is filtered and contains no water, it will last for a year or more. I may have some in the garage that's two years old and still not rancid.
 

BFR

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cranetruck said:
2) It requires extra handling. Pouring WVO into tank from small containers will usually cause a spill, which gets messy..I have left many a greasy spot on the pavements in rest areas across the country. :oops:
rofl my street got cranetruck "marked"
 

acetomatoco

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RE: Re: WVO for Dummies - need clarification

Easier to eat WVO at McDonalds before it is thrown out...and you save a lot of $. Then you don't have to put it in the tank...There is a big investment in time and prep if you are really serious about using the stuff...honest...
 

area52

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RE: Re: WVO for Dummies - need clarification

All diesel engines can run WVO/biodiesel with some modifications. The fuel density compensator on the multifuel engine actually works against you when you run WVO/biodiesel so I would recommend bypassing it.

WVO itself needs to be heated as stated above, I think 140 degrees comes to mind but don't quote me.

Yes there is a lot of leg work getting the vehicle prepared and getting the WVO but if you can get it for free then in the long run its a great cost savings if you stick with it.

Cranetruck has a lot of great posts on here and also if you search the web there are alot of great sites on converting to WVO/biodiesel.

Good luck.
 

superburban

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RE: Re: WVO for Dummies - need clarification

I have over 14,000 miles on WVO and 3,000 miles on Biodiesel in my 85 burban (Same engine as CUCV). I have made back the initial investement, and saved 1,000s of dollars. I use up about 2 weekends a month playing with all of the greasey stuff.
Really, it is up to you to decide if your time is worth more to you than the savings you would get.
My vote goes to the "It's worth it" column.
 

ken

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Went down and filled up wifeys liberty CRD with bio today. While there i was talking with the station owner and he is offering VO for $1.80 a gal. He tells me it's virgin oil and they have filtered it to 1 micron to be safe. It looks good and clear. I'm thinking of running it at about 30% to diesel in my M35. With as much WMO as i've bunrt through it 30% seems a good start. I'm not planning on heating it. With it being this clear and filtered would there be any worries of fat deposits? If it is virgin oil?
 

kcimb

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Okay, here's how it was done with a friend's mercedes-can't be much different than on a deuce, being much simpler. This was copied/pasted from some advice I sent in an email a while ago. Someone mentioned putting it straight into the tank mixed with Diesel, mixed no more than 20%. I'm pretty sure that would work also if you don't want to go through the complexity of adding a second tank and switches to control the flow and heater.

Add a tank seperate of the main diesel tank. This tank must be heated if you plan on operating in the winter, less so in the summer but it's nice to have. Place a switch on your dash to control the heater, or you can have it wired straight into the car's electrical. Place the knob that switched the fuel being pumped from the diesel tank to the WVO/VO in a convienient place, because when the cars is warmed up (you must start it and let it warm up on diesel because the WVO will be cold and congealed) you'll have to switch it over manually. Once it's running good you can go.

Then when you want to shut it off, switch it back over to diesel so the WVO in the fuel lines is flushed out (WVO will congeal and harden so the next time you go to start up it won't run because your lines are clogged with fat, much like your body after a visit to Mcdonalds). Repeat as necessary....


My next milestone is making my own bio-diesel.
 

ken

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I really didn't want to add a heater or another tank. I've ran waste motor oil with diesel for a couple of years. So i know the engine can handle the thicker fuel. I was hoping since this was virgin oil that i wouldn't have any problems with solids forming. It rarely gets cold in Houston. Last summer i took some readings on the fuel tank when i got home from work. The fuel in the tank was well over 100deg just from sitting in the sun. Will virgin VO form solids after being heated? Since unused fuel returns to the tank i though this may cause a problem when it cools.
 

cranetruck

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KC, do a search for dual heated tank set on the deuce and also the home made biodiesel projects....

Ken, any veggie oil will have an unacceptable viscosity by itself below 100°F, you have to mix it with kerosene or diesel or heat it for any percentage over about 20.
Fresh veggie oil is nice since you don't have to filter it or worry about water content. 1 micron is almost done to bacterial level.
Put a sample in the fridge and see for yourself.
If the fuel doesn't atomize well, you will get a build-up of carbon within the cylinder.
 

5tonpuller

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I have been making my own bio. I have been doing the thinning method. In the bio section I and Cranetruck have done some typing on this. Multi fuel eng. seem to do fine on a 50% mix. Even put some in the frig. and freezer. ( rubs head from wifes find )
Read the other tread. There is a TON of reading to do on this subject. There is more then one formula to use.
My $0.05 worth.
Matt
 

kcimb

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cranetruck said:
KC, do a search for dual heated tank set on the deuce and also the home made biodiesel projects....

Ken, any veggie oil will have an unacceptable viscosity by itself below 100°F, you have to mix it with kerosene or diesel or heat it for any percentage over about 20.
Fresh veggie oil is nice since you don't have to filter it or worry about water content. 1 micron is almost done to bacterial level.
Put a sample in the fridge and see for yourself.
If the fuel doesn't atomize well, you will get a build-up of carbon within the cylinder.
Cranetruck,

I've checked out how to make biodiesel before and right now the cost benefit over Dino diesel isn't worth it and neither is the fine for driving using non-taxed road fuel. I don't have enough knowledge of chemistry and whatnot to attempt it and if I did the end result would be a crater about 6 feet deep in my shed. And then there's the neighbor's thinking I am manufacturing meth.....


Once diesel hits obscene prices per gallon I will definitely check into it..perhaps a two tank setup-one with biodiesel (Hidden) and the main tank with taxed diesel.
 

Bill W

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Hey
Has anyone pondered putting in a mild water injection system to help burn/steam off carbon buildup when using VO, or is this (carbon) not a serious enough problem. I know doing this (water inj) on gas engines vertually eliminates carbon buildup in the cylinder,I just don't know if it can be done on diesels
 
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