Zero Rate Blocks

[DerangedMadman]

I received them from ORD and plan on installing them soon in the front and back. Have any of you installed them with no other lift with the sole purpose of moving the front axle forward an inch? Will the drive shaft still be long enough in the front after moving it forward an inch and raising it an inch? Any tips for an easy install?

Thanks,

 

[Marlboro]

Plenty of length... Your safe to at least 8inches.

 

[24farragut]

Zero Rate Kit Issues

i am installing a zero rate kit from ORD on my m1008 now. ORD is really helpful and easy to deal with, but they didnt tell me exactly what i needed to complete this. This is for my m1008 only, might be different for an m1009

1. You need the U-Bolt flip kit, or you need the square type u bolts that are original. With the u-bolt flip kit, the top plate will rub against the bump stops (not sure if that is the correct term). The U-Bolts that they sent me were too short, i had to call back and have them ship longer style u-bolts.

2. The center pin for the spring pack is removed, the one they supply with the kit is too short, so you will have to find a spring shop to get a center pin that is at least 5" long, maybe 5.25" (not sure i havent found one yet).

Other than that, no complaints about ORD, they definitely are accomodating and helpful.

 

[EF-5]

I know this is an old thread, but I was also thinking about installing zero rate blocks. This may be a question that has already been answered, but I couldn't find it. Are the M1008 leaf springs 2.5" wide or 3" wide. I appreciate it!

 

[tvguy]

I know this is an old thread, but I was also thinking about installing zero rate blocks. This may be a question that has already been answered, but I couldn't find it. Are the M1008 leaf springs 2.5" wide or 3" wide. I appreciate it!

The springs on my M1031 are 2.5" wide.

 

[twomorestrokes]

The springs on my 1008 are 3" wide.

That being said, I have a couple questions on the ord 4" lift. I want to use the' lift with front springs and a rear shackle flip and add the 1" zero rates in front to move the tire forward a little for more clearance. ORD says that will place the front 1" higher than the rear. Seems like I've read about a lot of trucks with this setup and they don't appear nose high.

Also, these trucks use 3" wide front springs. Isn't a 2 1/2 lift spring going to cause an issue?

Thanks.

 

[Sharecropper]

For my M1028 rebuild, I raised the truck 5" as follows:

Rear - I installed ORD's shackle lift kit and 1" Zero-Rates. With this configuration, you need to be aware of a few things. First of all, the flip kit actually rotates the rear axle, because the front of the rear springs do not move. The flip kit re-positions the rear spring bushing 8" lower than stock, effectively providing a 4" lift. In order to re-center the rear axle in the rear fender opening, the axle will need to be moved backward 1-1/2", which is accomplished with the Zero Rates. Secondly, this rotation of the axle causes the passenger-side shock to no longer be attachable. You will need to either fabricate a new top shock mounting plate or relocate the shock mounting bracket on the axle, which is what I did. I wanted to get those axle brackets moved upwards anyway to provide more groung clearance. I had my frame shop cut the lower shock brackets off my axle and rotate them upwards on the axle tube and re-weld them. You will also need longer shocks. Thirdly, you will need to have your rear driveshaft lengthened 1-1/2" so you will have the appropriate spline length into the tail piece. Fourthly, you will need to re-locate your emergency brake cable from the ring bracket which is mounted on the frame. Fifthly, you will need to fabricate and install a longer actuator arm rear brake propotioning valve.

Front - I installed ORD Heavy Duty springs to obtain a 4" lift and then Zero Rates for an additional inch of lift. Because my tires/wheels are 11.00/20 NDT, I re-positioned the front axle 1 inch forward to assist in fender clearance. If you are going to use bigger tires and wheels, you may want to consider this as well. You will need longer brake lines and longer shocks. And while you are at it, you might as well go ahead and install ORD cross-over steering to maintain correct steering geometry.

All this is covered in my rebuild thread below.

Hope this helps.

 

[twomorestrokes]

Thanks for the reply and the link from your truck build. Very nice! I did order the zero rate kit for the front. 1" forward is good? I have not ordered the zero rate for the rear yet but it sounds like it's a good idea. No crossover steering yet either. Had to call it quits somewhere. I bought this truck to save money over my previous HD and it's already eating up my savings after 5 days.

 

[Sharecropper]

Well, if you are going to raise your truck, you're gonna have to do something with your steering. I had originally installed a drop pitman and block under the wheel arm, but this was wasted money because the drag link would not shorten up enough with the axle moved forward one inch. Sell something and buy the crossover from ORD. You will be glad you did. My truck now turns on a tighter radius than stock.

Hope this helps.

 

[GPrez]

That being said, I have a couple questions on the ord 4" lift. I want to use the' lift with front springs and a rear shackle flip and add the 1" zero rates in front to move the tire forward a little for more clearance. ORD says that will place the front 1" higher than the rear. Seems like I've read about a lot of trucks with this setup and they don't appear nose high.

For reference, I just installed 2" lift springs in the front and 1" zero rates in back and it pretty well leveled out my M1028. My thread with pics is here
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/cucv/87203-m1028-small-lift-build.html

 

[twomorestrokes]

Well, if you are going to raise your truck, you're gonna have to do something with your steering. I had originally installed a drop pitman and block under the wheel arm, but this was wasted money because the drag link would not shorten up enough with the axle moved forward one inch. Sell something and buy the crossover from ORD. You will be glad you did. My truck now turns on a tighter radius than stock.

Hope this helps.

I already sold something to buy the whole dang truck and lift kit. My 2500HD.

I asked Chris at ORD about this and this is his reply:

"It is likely that you'd have to cut one of the draglink ends down a bit, though that depends on the exact draglink ends you have. There really isn't an issue with that, you'll still have full thread engagement."

 

[Sharecropper]

I can attest from experience that you will not be able to shorten the drag link sufficiently to compensate for moving the front axle forward one inch. Been there done that, it just don't work.

The drag link must be LEVEL between the pittman and axle arm. Having said that, the best and easist way to achieve correct steering geometry is to install cross-over steering.

Hope this helps.