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Exterior Latex/Acrylic House Paints

bmH1065

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I had wanted to have a sprayed on bed liner but have decided that i is way too expensive so have been following this post. The primer for rust sounds great. Will a gallon do the bed? Sherwin Williams said that it would cover 400 sq feet for about $40. Is this what you are talking about?
 

SPCWarning

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I would think that instead of a roll-in or spray-in bedliner in the bed of a deuce or 813,, you could use something like porch/deck paint after priming. It is probably tintable to any shade you can imagine. Would be a lot cheaper than the bedliner, and it's durable because it gets walked on all the time. You could probably even mix sand in with it as you roll it on to make it skid-proof. Any thoughts on this?
 

SteveKuhn

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I used 2 coats of epoxy latex porch and patio Ben Moore on the bed of mine including the sides up to the flat where the troop seats are plugged in. I would seriously consider using it on the whole truck since its satin finish is very close to Gillespie 24087 semi gloss sprayed from a can. After curing it is more durable to scuffing than most other acrylics or latex formulas probably including the industrial acrylic which I used on my troop seats.

I wouldn't use this if I was dragging corners of steel across the bed or like punishment. Then again, alkyd would suffer with that.

If you spend the time you can get an exact match from most any vendor.

Bedliner is probably more durable but it took me about 30 mins/coat w/ a 6" foam roller for all but the 1st coat.

Cut the corners w/ a brush very full and spread out w/ a 2" foam corner roller right up to the vertical surface. Roll from there towards the center w/ a 6". A recoat isn't time consuming so scuffs disappear easily.

Dark colors need to cure probably 3+ weeks for that durability unless it's dry/summer/in the sun to bake. In the cool/rainy days of early October, mine resisted rain in < 8 hrs but it was still tacky to walk on at 24 hrs.

Probably 3+ full coats/gallon, rolled.

Can't tell it was rolled beyond 12" w/ the foam roller and Floetrol per instructions.

FWIW.
 

plym49

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TX USA
I would think that instead of a roll-in or spray-in bedliner in the bed of a deuce or 813,, you could use something like porch/deck paint after priming. It is probably tintable to any shade you can imagine. Would be a lot cheaper than the bedliner, and it's durable because it gets walked on all the time. You could probably even mix sand in with it as you roll it on to make it skid-proof. Any thoughts on this?
It might work just fine.

Personally, I am not a fan of bedliner products. I do not like the appearance or the texture. Way too thick and 'plastic', nor the idea of a coating that can not be easily removed. To me, they look out of place on a regular old pickup truck. They look absolutely wrong in a Deuce bed, or worse, interior. Again, JMHO.
 

RAYZER

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sanford/florida
Hey guys. I'm wanting to paint the interior of my deuce road tractor cab tomorrow using an airless house sprayer with a narrow tip and some flowtrol added,the prep work and Rustolium rusty metal primer are done so it should be pretty straight foward, i'd like to use valspar from lowes because its more convenient but would consider using bher if you guys recommend it,i want to use the green that's on the m146 trailer, which green is this ? It's a Vietnam era green yes?
 

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RAYZER

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sanford/florida
Take a paint chip and let them match it.
Hi Ray. I could do that but am afraid that the paint on the trailer may be faded therefore giving me a untrue color, if anyone knows which green this is and has the paint code for this oem color when it was fresh, that would greatly help!
 

SteveKuhn

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383 was my 1st guess when I saw the picture but cameras and computers change the tints of colors.

If it has faded or otherwise changed color over time (and I'd guess it has), you'll never be able to tell for sure - just be close.

I'm also convinced by looking at equipment and then comparing it to the various mfr's tints that '383' has come in various flavors over the years. I figgered that out trying to match my 101 and some accessories that I know are Army to the spray cans. They all match each other but not the cans.

Some of the stuff that is spec'd for 383 is a lot darker coming out of GL than either Aervoe or Gillespie. I tried EVERY green that Gillespie has. Didn't happen. Had it matched in Benjamin Moore flat. I think it's in this thread somewhere called 'Old 383'.

BTW, yours is definitely lighter than what I was matching.

You could always get a sample made up of the 383 formula that's posted here for under $5 at HD and try it next to your trailer. Then if you want to try another mfr, use that as a match sample.
 
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SPCWarning

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RAYZER, could you find a paint chip underneath, in a hidden area that hasn't seen the sun, and have it matched? You might just find the original color hidden in a corner somewhere underneath.
Jimmy
 

RAYZER

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sanford/florida
RAYZER, could you find a paint chip underneath, in a hidden area that hasn't seen the sun, and have it matched? You might just find the original color hidden in a corner somewhere underneath.
Jimmy
Yes i did Jimmy! But used the code for the 383 carc substitute that wsucougarx posted,thanks Mike! and it was an exact match,not to the faded paint on the trailer but to some i found elsewhere, I bought 5 gal. The results can be seen on page 8 of my deuce road tractor conversion thread, the bher paint went on flawlessly in one coat without thinning using a airless sprayer using a narrow tip. http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-modification-hot-rodding/74411-deuce-road-tractor-conversion.html
 

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SPCWarning

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Stonewall, MS
Update on Butterbean......failure!
Got back from a month in the desert, my CUCV stayed inside my shop the entire time. Got home to find what appears to be "mildew"? on the entire hood, part of the top (cab), and in some spots all over the truck.
I'm assuming I didn't let the primer cure enough on the hood..??? The primer is black, and the spots showing thru are kinda rust/brown looking. Looks really crappy. I took some 120-grit to a few spots just to see what would happen, and it's all the way to the metal! Gotta remove the hood, get 'er back down to metal, then start over probably with a better primer and let it cure longer. Gotta wait for a warm day though.
On the other spots it looks like I didn't prime it enough.
NOT GIVING UP!!! ............updates/pics to follow.
 

joediveguy

Member
239
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Location
Front Royal, Northern VA
Goldwing2000 the code code is (river rock 2139-10) Any Ben Moore store can help you. What sheen are you going to do? I like the flat myself. Prime all the rusted areas first. If you use rustoleum let it dry for a few days before top coating.
Hey VI, I just got some of the BM river rock paint and have an area redy to paint. How did you apply yours, I saw you said you rolled and area. Did you use a roller for your whole truck or did you spray it? The guy at the BM counter said it was to thick to spray and I would have to use water to thin it out. What are your thoughts? Thanks and Semper Fi Brother!
 

austinaubinoe

Member
95
10
8
Location
Potomac, Md
What primer would you guys reccomend?
I started priming mine with Rustoleum Rusty Primer. $30 a gallon at Home Depot. I an just scraping, wire brushing, acetone wipedown, then sprayed on some phosphate etch (then damp sponge wipedown). I am no paint expert, but the first paint I put down was on the bumper. Put a second coat on a day later. It seems VERY tough after a week, compared to the grey automotive primer Ive used in the passed on other projects.
 
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