A few questions about DOT 5 and what TM I need.

[Loco_Hosa]

First off, Hi everyone! I been away from the forum for a few months while dealing with some stuff in my life. Seems every time I log in I have a burning desire to spend money!

Im on track with my savings to purchase my house in June, and I have a bit of extra money so I put the Deuce on jack stands and started tearing into the brake system, (blew out a wheel cylinder last time I drove it) just have some simple questions for ya'll.

-How much is a fair price for Dot 5 fluid?
-How much does the system hold?
-Can someone point me to the TM that deals with the wheel cylinders?
-And the TM for repacking the bearing and flipping the hubs?
-Where do I order a master cylinder rebuild kit?
-And.... What TM do I find that in....?
-How bad of an idea is it to filter and reuse the remaining Dot 5 that is in the system? (I assume bad, but I have to ask)

Im sorry, I know I should be able to find this myself, but I am struggling learning which TM to go to for each job, and I have to ask for a touch of help. I am doing my best, and Im sure as soon as I post this Ill magically think of the right words to search and find the info I need!

I have the six drums off, the hubs removed from the drums, (All the brake shoes look emasculate[sp?]) I have 6 brand new looking tires to put on while I am saving for the 395s, and I figure that by the time the weather gets warm enough to drive I will just about have this truck running/driving perfectly!

 

[resqur]

The TM is 2320-209-34-2-1. It takes about 3 quarts of fluid. There is a thread for flipping the hubs. NAPA has the rebuild kit. I would not reuse the fluid already in the system.

 

[amaverick88]

as for the price of dot 5 it varies if you decide to get a surplus can of it from a dealer or go to you local parts store. local parts store earlier this month i priced a gallon out to be around 80 dollars. i instead found a dealer who was selling it shipped for 65 dollars. before i know there was a seller on the classified forum selling it but not sure if it is still there. I just redid my entire brake system since mine also blew a wheel cylinder. but a gallon was more than enough. I bought my master cylinder rebuild kit from eriks military surplus. and it only took about 20 minutes to rebuild it. As far as the tm's i am not sure where i found it but will try to look again if someone else doesn't chime in with it.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

The TM is 2320-209-34-2-1. It takes about 3 quarts of fluid. There is a thread for flipping the hubs. NAPA has the rebuild kit. I would not reuse the fluid already in the system.

Thank you! For some reason I thought it was 2 gallons of Dot 5, and the place I checked they wanted $120 for a gallon. I panicked a bit!

I know once upon a time there was a page I found that had awesome pictures showing the whole process of flipping the hubs, I wanted to review it before I put it back together

That TM says "Troubleshooting" but I already know what the trouble is, I was hoping to find one with detailed instructions about servicing the brakes, along with torque specs for reassembling the brakes.

 

[plumkrazy]

Go to xm381.com then follow the link at the top middle page under "How To." There is a 21 picture explanation on flipping hubs. This is a SS members site. He has answered many questions for me.

_______________
1953 M38A1 Elinor (Rigby)
1972 AMG M35A2 w/M66 gun ring Lucy(in the Sky....)
1985 M1009 Penny (Lane)
???? M100

 

[Loco_Hosa]

Go to xm381.com then follow the link at the top middle page under "How To." There is a 21 picture explanation on flipping hubs. This is a SS members site. He has answered many questions for me.

Thank you, that was exactly the guide I had been looking for. I had just wanted to see if I was missing anything doing it from memory, seems I had it mostly right.

 

[leroygreen]

LH,
mikw did a great how to in a thread a while back. I think it was just called hub flip. This computer a work is slow and I couldn't get it to come up but check it out.

 

[Loco_Hosa]

LH,
mikw did a great how to in a thread a while back. I think it was just called hub flip. This computer a work is slow and I couldn't get it to come up but check it out.

I have the hub separate from the drum, just need to press out the studs, so I think I just about have it. Just want to make sure there was nothing stupid I was missing.

I found the TM I needed, so I need to read some more about what type of grease and how much grease to use between the bearings. Then I need to read about removing the brake shoes and then finally, I will be able to accomplish the primary goal:

Inspection and replacement of wheel cylinders.

 

[leroygreen]

LH,
I tried the link on another computer and it still didn't work. Its a link to his website. Im not sure if its the website or its being blocked at work. Sounds like your almost done anyway. Good luck and be safe.

Jarred

 

[DeucesWild11]

Welcome back! I have always questioned the difference between Dot 3 and 5. In reading past threads it seems like the Dot 5 lasts longer and possibly attracts less water.. However if you plan on making it a yearly task of bleeding your brakes to remove possible water then perhaps you are OK with Dot 3? I think that's the main difference. Sorry that's not your question but mine though as my truck has had Dot 3 in it when I purchased it.. Not sure if I want to drain the entire system and replace with 5. I don't mind bleeding once a year..

 

[Tow4]

Welcome back! I have always questioned the difference between Dot 3 and 5. In reading past threads it seems like the Dot 5 lasts longer and possibly attracts less water.. However if you plan on making it a yearly task of bleeding your brakes to remove possible water then perhaps you are OK with Dot 3? I think that's the main difference. Sorry that's not your question but mine though as my truck has had Dot 3 in it when I purchased it.. Not sure if I want to drain the entire system and replace with 5. I don't mind bleeding once a year..

I also have Dot 3 in my Deuce. Cheaper and easier to get. You can find Dot 5 on-line reasonably priced ~ $12 a quart. Try Amazon, you can usually get free shipping for over $25.

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

I also am running DOT 3. Whether I plan on it or not, I seem to be doing brake service once a year so why not go with the fluid that is $15 a gallon at Walmart (made in USA too).

With everything apart you're in a perfect position to flush and fill everything, as you should do when switching.

I just got a master cylinder rebuild kit from here:

Master Cylinder Rebuild Kit For M35A1 M35A2, 7539309

$38 with shipping I think.

I didn't know NAPA had them.

 

[porkysplace]

These will help; TM9-1827c Ord. Maint. Wagner Lockheed Brakes
TB-9-2300-426-20 TB43-0002-87

 

[Loco_Hosa]

These will help; TM9-1827c Ord. Maint. Wagner Lockheed Brakes
TB-9-2300-426-20 TB43-0002-87

All very helpful links! Thank you!

 

[Loco_Hosa]

Well, I was out at the Deuce and I spotted, without a doubt, the source of my problem.

It looks like when I adjusted my brakes before leaving Cali I made a mistake, and this caused the wheel cylinder to hyper extend, and that is the source of my whole entire problem. Wow.

I have a spare wheel cylinder (Thanks to a forum member) and a spare wheel cylinder rebuild kit (Thanks to another forum member) so that should not be a hard fix at all. I just feel like a bone head!

If that has not taught me to read the TMs before doing anything else, I dont know if anything will!

 

[DeucesWild11]

The TM's will save you!! Thank god for them as I am now nearing completion of my airpack rebuild.. I will post my rebuild with pics and all info in one spot... Let's hope it works too.. that would be good.

 

[DHennon]

I just bought another gallon of DOT5 on ebay for $49.00 + plus the ride. It often appears in the classifieds. $120 is way high. Remember, do not mix DOT 5 and 3. Some of the guys are switching from 5 to 3. Be sure to COMPLETELY flush the system with denatured alcohol first either way. I am staying with DOT5. I replaced every line, hose, wheel cylinder, master cylinder, and air pack on the truck; flushed with alcohol and replaced with new 5.

If you are replacing all the brake lines, there is a clamp on the driver's side of the frame rail that is held by the upper rear spare tire bolt. That clamp and bolt are a REAL PITA to get out. There is virtually no room between the outside air tank and frame rail to get to it. If you decide to remove that brake line, PM me and I will tell you how I got it out without removing the air tanks.

Good luck.

I buy from White Owl. Very knowledgeable and fair. I have rebuilt much on the deuce with parts from them.

 

[Scrounge41]

I changed out a bad wheel cylinder on my 109 before I could bring it home from SETOYOTA's place. I had the TM's with me, but if you've ever changed out a wheel cylinder before, it is pretty straightforward. Except with much bigger parts. I was able to replace the cylinder by taking out the backing (mounting) bolts after removing the banjo bolt and using a prybar to gently expand the shoes out of the way. Beats taking off those big springs. The shoes themselves and the drum looked brand new after I cleaned them up. I got a new cylinder and a kit from Eriks at a good price. One thing I wasn't expecting was a metric bleeder screw. To me that just seems wrong. Turns out a couple of the other bleeders were metric too. I got my Dot 5 from a place in Miami and was around $42. for 2 qts. shipped. If I had planned better and sourced it earlier I'm sure I could have gotten it cheaper elsewhere.

 

[M813A1]

You can save some cash and use DOT 3 Brake Fluids there is no reason that you cannot use that and it is a better fluid I think to use !! It absorbs the water in the brake system and the DOT5 does not and all the crap settels in the wheel cylinders with the DOT 5 . Just flush out your brake system before adding DOT 3. I will use DOT 3 When I get to changing my brake and wheel cylinders !!

 

[tco3129]

It looks like when I adjusted my brakes before leaving Cali I made a mistake, and this caused the wheel cylinder to hyper extend, and that is the source of my whole entire problem. Wow.

I have found, possibly due to worn drums, that even with proper adjustment the cylinders will overextend if the shoes are worn no more than 1/2 way down. I just had to replace a set of shoes today.