My first CUCV M1031, My first SS post

[Skinny]

Hi guys

I will skip the hokey forum introduction and just say the SS is a pretty cool forum. I get on Pirate4x4 often because I do some custom 4x4 builds but this is my first military spec vehicle. I am looking forward to building my new toy.

I burned my foot with some boiling water last week. This amazingly freed up alot of time to do some online shopping.


I got an M1031 from down south, purchased on Craigslist over the phone, and had it shipped to Maine.

When it first arrived on the truck, it had dead batteries, wouldn't fire on a jumpstart, and only drove in first gear, and the tcase lever flops around. Yikes...I have a lot to do when I get both feet working again. First things to fix are new batteries, tcase lever, figure out why it won't start. It puffs alittle smoke while cranking but just won't fire. I had to do the really bad thing in order to get it to run. Plus the water in fuel light is on.







The truck underneath is super clean. I've never seen an 84' Chevy that didn't have rotted out cab mounts, brake lines, etc. This one is as solid as a brand new truck. The odometer reads 6600 miles and the generator has 5 hours on it. I'm going to say that is true as the trans shifter is very tight and the pedals have no wear on them.

My plans are to have a general work truck and expedition rig. I would like to be able to carry some tools, torches, etc. for doing repairs and also be able to load this thing up and head out of town for awhile. This includes having a hot shower, stove/oven, and some power. I was looking at roof top tents which would work great but for some reason everyone wants double what they should be going for. For the same money, I will buy a vertical tent for shower/potty use, 6 person tent, and a quick setup canopy for less money than an ARB 2 person rooftop tent.

My truck does have all of the M1031 equipment in the back including a newer looking Miller RamRod. The only thing that isn't on the truck is the little throttle linkage going from the governor to the injection pump. Doesn't seem too hard to fab up with some threaded rod.

I don't plan on keeping any of that stuff. I have no use for the stick welder and the generator is way overkill for what I would do with it. I already have a whole house Honda setup. If I needed power while camping, I would do solar and a small EU1000 Honda. For compressed air, I would mount a York compressor on the engine.

Does anybody know what the going rate on the generator, welder, air compressor, etc. would be? The only thing I plan on keeping would be the PTO box on the side of the tcase. Even that I would part with if the price is right. All of the other stuff inside the service box I have no real use for other than looking at it and saying "that is cool!"

Truck build plans...usually when I start building a truck I think about all the upgrades it needs and what weak points I have to address. This is the first truck I have gone "yup, needs new tires." I think some 285/75/16 or 315/85/16 (if they clear) will do the job. Going to stick with E rated tires, probably a Duratrac or some treadwright MT's. I've had good luck with them on my other rigs. Driveline wise is going to stay stock. What else needs improving when you have an NP205 feeding 1 tons with a detroit and traclok? The answer is nothing! I may get around to doing some 2" springs up front, they look pretty well sagged. I am going to do a hydraulic MM winch, we will see how the reverse arch 3 leaf springs look after that addition.

Other than the value of the generator/welder/air compressor stuff, has anybody ever added a set of aux batteries to the original set up front? I am definitely keeping the original 24v system. I would like to add two more "house" batteries in back to run an inverter and portable fridge. I understand how the CUCV system work but I'm not too familiar with 24v wiring systems and how to modify them. Would you take the 24v lead in the engine bay, run it through an isolation switch, then back to the house batteries (two 12v batteries in series)? Would this allow proper charging of all 4 when connected and isolation when the truck is off? I know drawing 12v in the middle is a bad idea so I want to make sure I am not doing something not safe.

 

[Cucvnut]

Welcome to SS be sure to read the wiki and down load the TM's. I hope your foot heals quickly. your truck is clean man!

 

[ken]

Hello and welcome. My latest CUCV was just like yours. But i pulled the utility body and put a M1008 bed on it. I too love the NP 205. But i put a old school tail shaft on it and had a new driveshaft built with the stub and slip yoke in it. Other than that it's stock. I'm running 235/85-16 dura tracs myself. I love them so far. Quiet and work well in the woods. Check out your glow plugs first. Classic wont start. Good luck

 

[Skinny]

I've got the TM's and have been lurking through the CUCV section for the last week. It has been much more entertaining than staring at the wall all week with my foot up.

Do you have any pictures of your truck with the Duratrac's on it? I originally wanted to do HMMWV takeoff's but have settled on just new tires. Of course everything in the 35" to 37" range are either D rated or for yo yo 17"+ rims. Not to mention they are $300+ a tire...yikes!

I thought about just taking the entire box off and selling it to put a normal bed on but I like it too much. I can keep OCD organization of all my stuff without it flopping around. Plus my girlfriend thinks it's ugly which makes me like it even more

I will check the glows first. I can hear the solenoid click on with the key and turn off shortly after. I think the controller is atleast working. The DVOM will tell the truth when I can start working on it.

 

[GPrez]

Note to self; Do not spill boiling water on my foot. That looks painful man. I hope you heal up quick.

I don't think the M1031 came with the Miller Ramrod from the military, but I could be wrong. That does look new and based on how clean that truck is I would agree that is original mileage. Good luck with it. Another tire size to consider is 255/85/16. They are a hair taller than 33" and look real good on the stock wheels with no rubbing.

I cannot help you with the 24V things you want to do for charging batteries in the back. I do know you can get 12V off of the front battery.

 

[Skinny]

The 255/85/16 appears to only come in an E rated BFG KM2 which rocks for $190 each. They are slightly taller and skinnier than the 285/75/16...decisions decisions

With a little bit of reading, I think the best option would be to have a small gas Genny like a Honda EU2000i in the back to run any electrical goodies. Run the fridge off of the CUCV batteries. If the CUCV batteries get low, I can run a battery charger off the generator to top them off. Eliminates having to carry house batteries and an inverter. It's not like I am going to live in this thing (unless girlfriend kicks me out for buying it).

I can even convert the EU2000i to run on propane so I only have to carry two fuels on board. Any insight on that arrangement?

 

[dstang97]

I was looking at that truck. Man I would love to buy that setup from you. I just have too much going on right now.

 

[jets1959]

Hello from the PNW!!!!!!!!!! First do the DOGHEAD starter relay mod. Second check your glow plugs and related system. These truck sat alot clean your fuel system it is dirty. Way cool truck!!!!!!!!!!! Would like to relieve you of your contact mainenance equipment but shipping would cost a fortune. 255r85/16's are the biggest tire you can use with out mods.

 

[daddy2]

Sorry about the foot. I seen medical markings on it though. Good to see you went to the hospital. Burns can be bad. I am a RN working in the operating room at a level 1 trauma hospital. Keep it clean. Infections are baaaaaad news.

On another note I love the miller. MGD and the Miller welders. Try a welding supply shop for prices, or keep it like I would. Can never have enouph welding equipment. Welcome to SS

 

[Warthog]

Welcome to SS.

All your mods sound like great.

Just a side note, please be aware that this site is NOT like all the others, especially pirate. We do have rules and attempt to enforce them.

 

[zoto6ixty]

Welcome to the club.

 

[that1028guy]

Welcome to the club! Another option for tires is Super Swamper LTBs I have 34x10.50 .16s and love them! Another mod to consider is a od trans like a 700r4 or a 4L80. Plan to do any towing with it?

 

[jdeoliveira74]

welcome to ss. nice foot! looks like it hurt lik he(*

 

[Skinny]

Welcome to the club! Another option for tires is Super Swamper LTBs I have 34x10.50 .16s and love them! Another mod to consider is a od trans like a 700r4 or a 4L80. Plan to do any towing with it?

No plans to tow anything specific. Just a general work mule. If a buddy needs to pull a boat or work trailer, I've got no fears. No long hauls on the highway, just local.

I think I've narrowed it down to a 285/75/16 E tire. BFG KM2 if still available, Goodyear Duratrac, or a Treadwright Goodyear MTR pattern.

Foot is getting alot better at this point. I hope sometime this week I will be able to get out and install new batteries. I've ordered a bunch of maintenance items like GP's (AC60's), fuel filter, belts, hoses, hockey puck thermostat, etc.

Like someone on here says, "if it's rubber, change it...if it's electrical, clean it"

After I get it fired up, I am going to pull all of the utility stuff out of the bed. Need to make room for a Honda EU2000i, 40 pound propane cylinder, Ecotemp L5 hot water shower, and a water tank. Probably will put a 30-40 gallon tank where the spare tire goes and add another 20 gallon diesel saddle tank with a manual switch valve.

When you add a tank, does the lift pump draw air into the IP/fuel filter lines when you switch tanks? I'm pretty sure there isn't a check valve in the syphon tube inside the fuel tank.

 

[that1028guy]

I am planing to mount a old suburban fuel tank in the rear and using a transfer pump to the factory tank. That way I dont have to worry about sucking air when switching tanks.

 

[Skinny]

Update on my progress...

I bought a pair of Exide 1000 CCA group 31 batteries from Tractor Supply for $100 each. Much better than the $170 each for the cheapies at NAPA. I hope they last...

Now it cranks very fast now, happy with results. When I put the batteries in, it fired right up but it was a very warm day. The following day we had some fifty degree weather again. She wouldn't start, just puff smoke out the exhaust. My GP solenoid was clicking on and off every few seconds. Didn't seem normal.

Today I did some more recon...turns out the GP's are very new Wellmans and two of them have good resistance, the others are incredibly high or none at all. This would explain why I had 2 volts at my GP connector when cycling. There is practically no resistance through the GP's after the resistor block. I already bought an 8 pack of AC60g's. I didn't have a good socket and need to change the terminals. I didn't have my weather tight terminal kit at home so that will have to wait...bummer not having it at the shop yet. Working in the driveway.

Gen 1 light wasn't coming on when the key is in RUN position. I thought it was an internal alternator issue. I grounded the brown wire and the light still didn't light. This means no power. I also didn't have an oil pressure light, only GEN 2 would light up. So I pulled the cluster and found pretty much every twist bulb not making good contact. So after installing new bulbs and scratching every connection, both GEN lights are on along with oil pressure. Good lesson in KISS. Unfortunately one alternator is now charging at 15v which is putting my charge gauge right between the green and red. I think this is creeping to the high side.

Took it for a short road test. The trans is shifting at 35mph and 50mph...classic vacuum issue. I replaced the hoses. I have low twenties out of the vacuum pump and 15 coming out of the IP valve with it cranked all the way back. I do get 15 at the modulator (used to be 5 at idle) but still shift the same. I had a brand new red stripe on standby. It turned out to be slightly too large. Both bench tested ok and the old one isn't leaking. I'm puzzled on this one. From what I read, I should have 20 or more at idle but 15 should at least lower my shift points. 5 or 15 at idle, no change in shift points. Stuck governor???

Last things done today were chasing burnt bulbs, sticky signal switches, blown heater fuse, and other assortment of old truck issues.

Santa has dropped off some goodies, he will be making more visits soon. Drove around ME and NH last weekend. I picked up a mint set of Goodyear MT's and a set of 16.5x9.75" plain steel wheels off an 80's F350. Finding 16.5" rims are tough. Finding them that aren't in the redneck white 8 spoke is even more difficult. These look stock except wider...sweet. I want to retain a pretty close stock look. Had some difficulty mounting them up because the tires must have been stacked for awhile, couldn't get the beads to seat. May have to drop them off at a local tire shop. They have an air cannon for that. I really don't want to burn my classroom down seating my beads with ether.

I ordered up a 4" lift from ORD...pretty standard fare. Doing 4" HD springs up front and a shackle flip in the back. I went with HD shackles and Tuff Country shocks. I will tackle sway bar discos and hi steer when my budget allows this summer. I fix old Land Rovers with my friend during my school offseason...guaranteed job security through British Bosch/Lucas wiring.

I am thinking about getting a Stanadyne FM100 filter kit with heater and manual pump. The box filter is ok and I have a new AC Delco filter, I just don't want it to be a weak link.

Hopefully I can get the trans to shift right so I can get it to school. Once there, it will go up on the lift and I can dig in. I will start a build thread when I start that.

 

[tourus]

hello I am in madison me. not far from were you are would love to get to gether and help you with truck. to get it runing and everything . but would like to talk to you about maybe trading bodys I have an older servise trck body on an 1028 it is the on with the wisconsin engine in would maybe trade bodys or buy you gen setup. but talk later got go to work now. but just troughing it out there. I would be willing to come to you and help and talk in person soon.

 

[tourus]

more food for thought I have a 1010 amblance body I would and could trade as well make you a great body to do just what you were talking about.

 

[islandguydon]

Whats the skinny, skinny...?

Welcome your in good company around here.

 

[Skinny]

Whats the skinny, skinny...?

Welcome your in good company around here.

Skinny is the name because that is what I am...although as I get older, it is getting harder to keep the name. In another 10 years, my nickname will probably be CHUBBY.

It looks like good company. There is so much useful information on this website. I like your rig, it was one of the trucks that inspired me to do a 4" lift with 37's. Good stance, simple truck.