Skinny
Well-known member
- 2,130
- 488
- 83
- Location
- Portsmouth, NH
Hi guys
I will skip the hokey forum introduction and just say the SS is a pretty cool forum. I get on Pirate4x4 often because I do some custom 4x4 builds but this is my first military spec vehicle. I am looking forward to building my new toy.
I burned my foot with some boiling water last week. This amazingly freed up alot of time to do some online shopping.
![IMG_0913.jpg IMG_0913.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230776-5d6b95a08b50aabf24d3ee2b8db99f53.jpg)
I got an M1031 from down south, purchased on Craigslist over the phone, and had it shipped to Maine.
When it first arrived on the truck, it had dead batteries, wouldn't fire on a jumpstart, and only drove in first gear, and the tcase lever flops around. Yikes...I have a lot to do when I get both feet working again. First things to fix are new batteries, tcase lever, figure out why it won't start. It puffs alittle smoke while cranking but just won't fire. I had to do the really bad thing in order to get it to run. Plus the water in fuel light is on.
![new army truck 007.jpg new army truck 007.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230770-2ce81683783cc0a90a9b06510a21a719.jpg)
![new army truck 016.jpg new army truck 016.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230771-05ccda11a7b6f0f4c88cc4fe807da5b3.jpg)
![new army truck 008.jpg new army truck 008.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230773-ccccd623af80927ce03817756b6df635.jpg)
![gatlinburg 197.jpg gatlinburg 197.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230774-3d3244b839a85dad1d706f67b75224d1.jpg)
![gatlinburg 188.jpg gatlinburg 188.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230775-82a8bba1ce48144588be492155ca5600.jpg)
The truck underneath is super clean. I've never seen an 84' Chevy that didn't have rotted out cab mounts, brake lines, etc. This one is as solid as a brand new truck. The odometer reads 6600 miles and the generator has 5 hours on it. I'm going to say that is true as the trans shifter is very tight and the pedals have no wear on them.
My plans are to have a general work truck and expedition rig. I would like to be able to carry some tools, torches, etc. for doing repairs and also be able to load this thing up and head out of town for awhile. This includes having a hot shower, stove/oven, and some power. I was looking at roof top tents which would work great but for some reason everyone wants double what they should be going for. For the same money, I will buy a vertical tent for shower/potty use, 6 person tent, and a quick setup canopy for less money than an ARB 2 person rooftop tent.
My truck does have all of the M1031 equipment in the back including a newer looking Miller RamRod. The only thing that isn't on the truck is the little throttle linkage going from the governor to the injection pump. Doesn't seem too hard to fab up with some threaded rod.
I don't plan on keeping any of that stuff. I have no use for the stick welder and the generator is way overkill for what I would do with it. I already have a whole house Honda setup. If I needed power while camping, I would do solar and a small EU1000 Honda. For compressed air, I would mount a York compressor on the engine.
Does anybody know what the going rate on the generator, welder, air compressor, etc. would be? The only thing I plan on keeping would be the PTO box on the side of the tcase. Even that I would part with if the price is right. All of the other stuff inside the service box I have no real use for other than looking at it and saying "that is cool!"
Truck build plans...usually when I start building a truck I think about all the upgrades it needs and what weak points I have to address. This is the first truck I have gone "yup, needs new tires." I think some 285/75/16 or 315/85/16 (if they clear) will do the job. Going to stick with E rated tires, probably a Duratrac or some treadwright MT's. I've had good luck with them on my other rigs. Driveline wise is going to stay stock. What else needs improving when you have an NP205 feeding 1 tons with a detroit and traclok? The answer is nothing! I may get around to doing some 2" springs up front, they look pretty well sagged. I am going to do a hydraulic MM winch, we will see how the reverse arch 3 leaf springs look after that addition.
Other than the value of the generator/welder/air compressor stuff, has anybody ever added a set of aux batteries to the original set up front? I am definitely keeping the original 24v system. I would like to add two more "house" batteries in back to run an inverter and portable fridge. I understand how the CUCV system work but I'm not too familiar with 24v wiring systems and how to modify them. Would you take the 24v lead in the engine bay, run it through an isolation switch, then back to the house batteries (two 12v batteries in series)? Would this allow proper charging of all 4 when connected and isolation when the truck is off? I know drawing 12v in the middle is a bad idea so I want to make sure I am not doing something not safe.
I will skip the hokey forum introduction and just say the SS is a pretty cool forum. I get on Pirate4x4 often because I do some custom 4x4 builds but this is my first military spec vehicle. I am looking forward to building my new toy.
I burned my foot with some boiling water last week. This amazingly freed up alot of time to do some online shopping.
![IMG_0913.jpg IMG_0913.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230776-5d6b95a08b50aabf24d3ee2b8db99f53.jpg)
I got an M1031 from down south, purchased on Craigslist over the phone, and had it shipped to Maine.
When it first arrived on the truck, it had dead batteries, wouldn't fire on a jumpstart, and only drove in first gear, and the tcase lever flops around. Yikes...I have a lot to do when I get both feet working again. First things to fix are new batteries, tcase lever, figure out why it won't start. It puffs alittle smoke while cranking but just won't fire. I had to do the really bad thing in order to get it to run. Plus the water in fuel light is on.
![new army truck 007.jpg new army truck 007.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230770-2ce81683783cc0a90a9b06510a21a719.jpg)
![new army truck 016.jpg new army truck 016.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230771-05ccda11a7b6f0f4c88cc4fe807da5b3.jpg)
![new army truck 008.jpg new army truck 008.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230773-ccccd623af80927ce03817756b6df635.jpg)
![gatlinburg 197.jpg gatlinburg 197.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230774-3d3244b839a85dad1d706f67b75224d1.jpg)
![gatlinburg 188.jpg gatlinburg 188.jpg](https://www.steelsoldiers.com/data/attachments/230/230775-82a8bba1ce48144588be492155ca5600.jpg)
The truck underneath is super clean. I've never seen an 84' Chevy that didn't have rotted out cab mounts, brake lines, etc. This one is as solid as a brand new truck. The odometer reads 6600 miles and the generator has 5 hours on it. I'm going to say that is true as the trans shifter is very tight and the pedals have no wear on them.
My plans are to have a general work truck and expedition rig. I would like to be able to carry some tools, torches, etc. for doing repairs and also be able to load this thing up and head out of town for awhile. This includes having a hot shower, stove/oven, and some power. I was looking at roof top tents which would work great but for some reason everyone wants double what they should be going for. For the same money, I will buy a vertical tent for shower/potty use, 6 person tent, and a quick setup canopy for less money than an ARB 2 person rooftop tent.
My truck does have all of the M1031 equipment in the back including a newer looking Miller RamRod. The only thing that isn't on the truck is the little throttle linkage going from the governor to the injection pump. Doesn't seem too hard to fab up with some threaded rod.
I don't plan on keeping any of that stuff. I have no use for the stick welder and the generator is way overkill for what I would do with it. I already have a whole house Honda setup. If I needed power while camping, I would do solar and a small EU1000 Honda. For compressed air, I would mount a York compressor on the engine.
Does anybody know what the going rate on the generator, welder, air compressor, etc. would be? The only thing I plan on keeping would be the PTO box on the side of the tcase. Even that I would part with if the price is right. All of the other stuff inside the service box I have no real use for other than looking at it and saying "that is cool!"
Truck build plans...usually when I start building a truck I think about all the upgrades it needs and what weak points I have to address. This is the first truck I have gone "yup, needs new tires." I think some 285/75/16 or 315/85/16 (if they clear) will do the job. Going to stick with E rated tires, probably a Duratrac or some treadwright MT's. I've had good luck with them on my other rigs. Driveline wise is going to stay stock. What else needs improving when you have an NP205 feeding 1 tons with a detroit and traclok? The answer is nothing! I may get around to doing some 2" springs up front, they look pretty well sagged. I am going to do a hydraulic MM winch, we will see how the reverse arch 3 leaf springs look after that addition.
Other than the value of the generator/welder/air compressor stuff, has anybody ever added a set of aux batteries to the original set up front? I am definitely keeping the original 24v system. I would like to add two more "house" batteries in back to run an inverter and portable fridge. I understand how the CUCV system work but I'm not too familiar with 24v wiring systems and how to modify them. Would you take the 24v lead in the engine bay, run it through an isolation switch, then back to the house batteries (two 12v batteries in series)? Would this allow proper charging of all 4 when connected and isolation when the truck is off? I know drawing 12v in the middle is a bad idea so I want to make sure I am not doing something not safe.