"New" M1008 won't start

[kenz5380]

So a friend of mine picked up an exceptionally clean M1008 from Kansas last week. I've been working with him to try to get it running, but we are having some trouble. The truck turns over smoothly with new batteries. The glow plug system is working perfectly with new glow plugs and appropriate voltages at every point. It just won't fire up. We're getting some grey smoke out the tail pipe while cranking but no more than that. We've bled the fuel system from the tank all the way down to the injectors, and replaced the fuel filter.

Interestingly the truck came with a built in ether injection system controlled by a button on the dash. The truck is painted white so we thought maybe this was part of some sort of arctic package? I have never seen a built in ether injector before. We have not been using the ether as I know it is not the safest thing to do but obviously someone has.

We are going to do a compression test this afternoon and I will report on how that goes, but I have no reason to believe that there isn't good compression. The truck is at about 65k on the odometer. I suppose it could have been idled for long periods of time and has a lot of blow by?

Any ideas as to what the issue is would be greatly appreciated. I've searched the forum and can't find anything applicable. I've also gone through all of the suggestions in the TM troubleshooting guide with no luck. I'm thinking possible bad injectors?

Also, the timing marks appear to be lined up properly.

Thank you for your help.

 

[Warthog]

Check to make sure you have voltage to the Injector Pump fuel shut off. It is the pick wire on top of the IP. Turn the key on and remove the wire. Then touch the wire to the connector. You should hear a clicking sound.

You also may have air in the lines.

Bleed the fuel filter, then check for fuel to the injectors. You will have to loosen the fuel lines at the injectors. Do one at a time and see if you have feul while cranking.

 

[91W350]

The flex hose under the lift pump is very hard to get to and a common failure. I would avoid the ether.

 

[kenz5380]

There is power to the IP, and we've bled the entire fuel system, including the filter and down to the injectors. I will listen for the solenoid on the IP, but if we've got fuel down to the injectors then it seems like the IP must be working at least to some extent.

I know I replaced the flex hose to the IP on my truck and it was a pita, this one does not show any signs of leaks or anything and like I said, we have fuel down to the injectors so the IP is putting out.

 

[SgtSnorkel]

Check the timing marks , retarded injection pump timing can cause hard cold starts .

 

[kenz5380]

How do these timing marks look to you all? I'm not a good enough diesel mech to know if they are good or not. The IP is slightly to the left of the other line. Is that retarded or advanced?

 

[SgtSnorkel]

That would be retarded but not much , if the timing chain is not streched to badly . I Think it would start . If the timing chain is streched due to high mileage the ip may need to be moved to the right .

 

[Barrman]

Put a volt meter on the glow plugs and see that they are actually getting power when the glow plug light is on. Then, with the power lead off each glow plug. Use an Ohm meter to test the resistance from the power in blade to the threads. Should be 2-3 ohms. The -20 manual takes you through all of this in greater detail.

If you are getting gray smoke while cranking, you have fuel but no heat inside the engine. I personally would check for voltage at the glow plugs, verify it works and then replace all 8 plugs with 60G's. That way I would know come next winter that they are good and ready for the cold.

 

[86m1028]

Check to make sure you have voltage to the Injector Pump fuel shut off. It is the pick wire on top of the IP. Turn the key on and remove the wire. Then touch the wire to the connector. You should hear a clicking sound.

I had same issue as you.

My IP coil was bad.

BTW my truck is showing 11k & it looks to be acturate.


I reread your post. I did not have grey smoke but had fuel at the injectors when I checked them.
My problem was the coil wouldnt work all the time. I removed it & found a crack in it.

 

[kenz5380]

Put a volt meter on the glow plugs and see that they are actually getting power when the glow plug light is on. Then, with the power lead off each glow plug. Use an Ohm meter to test the resistance from the power in blade to the threads. Should be 2-3 ohms. The -20 manual takes you through all of this in greater detail.

If you are getting gray smoke while cranking, you have fuel but no heat inside the engine. I personally would check for voltage at the glow plugs, verify it works and then replace all 8 plugs with 60G's. That way I would know come next winter that they are good and ready for the cold.

I am getting 12.- volts at each glow plug and they are all brand new, just bought them because I thought the exact same thing, no heat, but it doesn't seem to have made a difference.

 

[kenz5380]

I had same issue as you.

My IP coil was bad.

BTW my truck is showing 11k & it looks to be acturate.


I reread your post. I did not have grey smoke but had fuel at the injectors when I checked them.
My problem was the coil wouldnt work all the time. I removed it & found a crack in it.

Can you elaborate on the IP coil? Are you talking about the solenoid? I've not heard that term before but if you had similar symptoms I am interested in what solved your issue.

 

[kenz5380]

Elaborating on the idea of "fuel but no heat": Is it possible that I am getting 12 volts at each glow plug but for some reason the resistor is not allowing enough current to actually get the GPs to heat up?

Just thinking out loud

 

[Warthog]

Can you elaborate on the IP coil? Are you talking about the solenoid? I've not heard that term before but if you had similar symptoms I am interested in what solved your issue.

The IP coil or solenoid is the coil under the top cover of the IP. When energized it pull up the plunger to allow the fuel to flow.

On the HMMWV engines, they where known to overheat and stop working. The soldiers would carry a warter bottle with them and pour it on the IP and be on thier way.

 

[kenz5380]

So I think we figured it out. Compression is at about 150 psi accross the board. Thank you all for your help but it looks like this engine needs a rebuild.

 

[Warthog]

That will cause a no/hard start issue.

I have one just like that.

I have some standard size rings if you need them. Send me a PM.

 

[kenz5380]

So in light of the compression test results on this engine and the lack of funds to buy a new long block or even do a full rebuild I am about to endeavor to re-ring this engine with minimal part replacement. I hate taking things apart and not replacing every part I can, but money talks, or the lack thereof.

SO, does anyone have any advice? I've built several engines in my time, but never a 6.2, and never a diesel. My intent is to replace the rings, hone the cylinders, replace the head gaskets, maybe ream the ridges, if they need it. Maybe lap the valves, if they need it. Probably replace the rod bearings but leave the mains in place unless I have some indication that they are not any good. Any thing else I should be thinking about here?

Thanks.

 

[kenz5380]

What are the best head gaskets to use?

 

[Warthog]

What are the best head gaskets to use?

Felpro gaskets. They are suppost to be the best for the money. Many people from other Diesel Forums use them


www.thedieselpageforums.com - They have multiple rebuild threads. Robyn is a great gal and a master at diesel mechanics.

http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=34635

www.dieselplace.com

www.gm-diesel.com

You will also want to use new headbolts as they are a one time use item.

 

[usmcpatriot]

If you have a coffin fuel filter, junk it...had the same problems as you. Convert to a spin-on. My problem was air leaks from the coffin fuel filter. I also replaced the gpr, and went 60acgs...good luck

 

[truck1]

I had the same problem you describe. I bypassed the resistor-12volts direct to the GP relay.Replaced the relay, GP temp sending unit,and GP card,and installed ac60g's. All parts from CUCV Electric. Truck fired right up and has never run better. Quick GP cycle time and super fast start.Might be worth a try.All parts were about 135 bucks. I also replaced my IP solenoid. This was a different issue.When hot, truck would stall and after cool down fire right up. I was not sure if I had a short in the IP ignition circuit, so I ran a dedicated circuit direct from front battery through 30 amp toggle switch on dash to IP. So far so good. With these trucks you learn as you go. Good luck!