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What did you do to your deuce this week?

Docuscg

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6
Location
Wilmington, NC
Standing tall and proud

Well boys and girls, here is my A3 standing tall and proud at parade rest in the new 4 color camo uniform. A little menacing looking to old lady's and grandma's , but the young boys and girls just love it. I still have to paint bed rails and do other stuff before RIDE TIME. Enjoy !!!
 

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rronning84

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Location
Eagle River, AK
I got a bunch of new stuff coming but nothing new to report really other then I have started fabbing up a light bar with brush guards. Among some of the stuff coming is a set of lock out hubs, horn button repair kit, filters kit and everything to do a complete CB install
 

Chuck76

Member
90
1
8
Location
Salisbury. NC
installed a new HH, everything seems to be timed correctly, but not getting any fuel to the injectors. Fuel is getting to the HH. Pulled the frt valve cover off, and verified that #1 was at TDC ( both rocker arms up...girlfriend watched as i manually spun her over.) I cant budge the plug in top of the HH to check the plunger, being new i shouldnt have to. Now I'm to pizzed to work on her, and lost on what to do ... hence the reason I cussed her..... I have 35 days to get her up and running... figure out the fuel problem, go through the brakes....
 

lawdog1623

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Location
Texas
Well, i decided to blast my compressor and many other small parts. After i was done i remember thinking that i was so glad to be done wiith it because i could paint all of it and reassemble. Then i turned the compressor over and found that it had blasting media sticking all over the inside. I COVERED IT WELL SO IM MOT SURE HOW IT GOT IN. i suppose ill have to break it down and clean it. Im assuming that the only safe thing to do is break the head off and clean EVERYTHING. Has anyone here taken a compressor
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

Chaplain
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San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA
Since my rattle-reduction efforts were so successful, I have been able to hear - and now feel - an under-dash air leak.

The leaking air seems to be coming from the "module" on the firewall that the air gauge and Front Axle Engage Switch connect to. Is that a pressure regulator or what???..... Gotta search the TMs. If it's supposed to blow off excess pressure, it seems to be sticking. If it's not, then "HOUSTON, WE'VE GOT A PROBLEM."

Ah, the pleasures and adventures of owning a 44 year old truck [thumbzup]:whistle::popcorn:
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA
I think you're looking at the low air buzzer.
Ah, that makes sense. (Haven't had a chance to look in TMs yet.)

Should it be "leaking" or "venting" air, or might I have a problem?
I still need to check for loose connections and fittings.
I'll SEARCH for some help in the forums, but I"ll shoot from the hip here..... Does it have any o-ring(s) etc that could need "rebuilding"?
Thanks.
John
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA
Steve,
Thanks for that.
So far, every air connection I've encountered on this truck has had teflon tape on it. She's a 1968, rebuilt in 1991, then served with a VFD for 10 years. Somewhere along the way, I think a teflon-tape-addict worked on this truck. [thumbzup]
I'm guessing that I'll find T-T on the other ends of those hoses too.
John
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

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San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA
CONFIRMED - - - The air leak under/behind the dash was the Low Air Pressure Pressure Switch. Once the hissing source was located, I pulled the switch out, opened it up and GI-Cleaned it out (very simple design), lubricated its innerds, and reinstalled it. There was a BIG GLOB of ELEPHANT SNOT & GRIT inside it.

Follow-Up - - -

1. I will track down and fix one remaining leak that has now been identified - under the cab, and just forward of the air tanks. I think it's one of the lines to the tanks.

2. I will also locate and check the Low Air Pressure BUZZER itself. Even though I've fixed the air leak at the switch - hand have power across it, the BUZZER still does NOT sound. I think it was disconnected/removed by the VFD that had the truck before I got it.

Thanks for the assist, Troops!.

:driver:

PS -- While I was messing with Air Lines etc, I also pulled the back plates off the AIR HORNS and cleaned/lubricated them. That sure "sweetened" the tone of the horns. They had a considerable amount of "scaling" or what looked like "hard water residue" on the copper reeds.
 
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Welder Sam

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Location
Glendale, Arizona
Its a square box, maybe 4" square behind the dash, to the right if the air pressure switch. Wire coming out of switch should go directly to it. I disconnect all of mine. Got an extra if you want it
 

USAFSS-ColdWarrior

Chaplain
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San Angelo, Tom Green County, Texas USA
I appreciate that Sam.
As I was finishing up, it was starting to drizzle (the cab is topless for the summer) and my belly was screaming to be fed. I'm pretty sure the BUZZER is there, and might just be disconnected, although neither wire to the switch seemed to be untethered.
If I determine that one is needed, I'll give you a shout [thumbzup] Thanks.
John
 

Docuscg

Member
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0
6
Location
Wilmington, NC
Had to make a new bracket for my alternator on my M35A3. The old one was small and so I decided to fix it the Harley Davidson way, ---Make it bigger until it stops breaking. I think I could hang a 15KW on this bracket. Also installed a kill switch thats locks. ( race car type )
 

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SMOKEWAGON66

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Location
California
Well, yesterday I drove my truck to work. Bout, 45 miles each way. The soft top held up nicely, although the bows kept popping up out of their holes in the windshield frame and making noise etc. So this morning I came up with a fix. Sorry the pic is slightly fuzzy, but basically i made a small bracket thing with one hole for a screw, and a U notch the diameter of the bow and made it into a clamp of sorts. Works great. Its thin metal, actually a flattened conduit bracket, then shorted and drilled. It holds the bow in even with me pushing up on the bow with quite a bit of force.
 

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