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Deuce won't idle after IP swap

Maxwell1815

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FINALLY got the engine back in and running, but it won't idle. I have to hold the throttle down a bit to keep 'er running. Also, she has absolutely no throttle response...at WOT, it takes 4 sec. for her to gain 1000 rpm.
I have already changed all of the fuel filters, she still has an unknown mixture of diesel/WMO, (i am guessing 70% diesel) I have bled the fuel lines (i think properly according to the TM) but how do i check for air leaks? when it stalls, i can hear a dripping, but it is internal in the IP or engine somewhere, I cannot pinpoint the location. I have been skimming the TM's like crazy, but I find them very hard to follow...Any help is greatly appreciated!!!
 

doghead

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Did you replace all 3 o rings?

Are you 100% sure your HH is installed correctly?
 

Broke Down

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Was this a used or new pump? My truck sat up for a while and did the same thing, well it still mildly does it. The more I drive it the better it gets.
 

Maxwell1815

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used pump, that was off of the old engine that threw a rod 2 years back...unused since then... should I just keep running her and see if it gets better?
 

Broke Down

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I'll let someone more experienced answer that question, but you are describing what mine is doing almost exactly. When mine sits up the throttle sticks when it first cranks, then I get a erratic idle, then when hot I get use of the throttle but it still idles up and down. I ran some fuel cleaner through it and I've been driving it almost daily around my land which seems to help it tremendously. I'm curious to see what causes this as well.
 

gringeltaube

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used pump, that was off of the old engine that threw a rod 2 years back...unused since then... should I just keep running her and see if it gets better?
So you drove her - and did it get any better? Does it even have "normal" power? Or does it smoke more then ever and NO power?
Maybe tell us how you made sure that pump went in, correctly timed - and not 180º off...?


G.
 

Maxwell1815

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I havent driven it yet, but i do have a question about the timing marks on the crankshaft, i have not read much about it but i used the one furthest left, and wondering if i used the right one.
 

gimpyrobb

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When you installed the IP, did you check any other timing indicators other than the crankshaft pulley?
You could have checked the scored disk under the little 4 bolt window or that the motor was TDC by pulling the front valve cover and seeing if the #1 cul valves were closed.

Just so we are on the same-page, you set the motor's crank to its LDT indicator and then pulled the original pump. Then you just bolted on the "üsed"pump? I am only asking so I know what all was done to install the 2nd pump.
 

Maxwell1815

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correct, I lines up the crankshaft mark, (not sure if i sued the correct one) and pulled the pump. when installing the new one, i lined up the timing marks on the IP also(under the "timing window" is how i believe the TM referred to it. I am going to further delve into my timing situation...i firmly believe this is where my problem resides.
 

Maxwell1815

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I just advanced the timing by a mark, and still no difference...I am going to go to the last mark, and reread the TM for the IP swap and see if i missed something.
 

Maxwell1815

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OK, apparently, I didn't have the marked tooth showing in the timing window when i had the timing mark on the IP hub gear lined up either...But that is fixed, and now it wont even start....Very frustrated here......aua Not really sure what I am doing wrong......
 

Squirt-Truck

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Settle down.
Go back to square one, CONFIRM compression of #1 by pulling rocker cover and checking for free rockers on #1. Confirm proper timing indicator on crank balancer. confirm pump timing marks align thru timing window, confirm scribed tooth (maybe red also) is one tooth PAST the install indicator pointer.
Then report what it does.
 

Maxwell1815

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am i overthinking what the install indicator is? Not exactly sure what this is..I have a red tooth, and the TM says it should be visible when the timing mark on the gear hub is aligned with the pintle. All while the Crank timing mark is aligned with its pointer...correct?
 

gringeltaube

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am i overthinking what the install indicator is? Not exactly sure what this is..I have a red tooth, and the TM says it should be visible when the timing mark on the gear hub is aligned with the pintle. All while the Crank timing mark is aligned with its pointer...correct?
Yes, all that... PLUS both valves closed on #1 !!!
(Pull the front rocker arm cover to make sure it isn't fire-TDC on #6)

G.
 

gimpyrobb

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The red scored tooth of the hydraulic head has nothing to do with timing the IP to the motor. Please don't bring that into the equation.
As long as the crank pulley is at the LDT mark(this IS a turbo motor, right?) is lined up, and the motor is at TDC(verified by the #1 cyl valves being closed). you should install the IP with the scored mark lined up with the pointer.



You know if you loosen the 3 outer bolts on the drive gear(of the IP), you can line up the scored mark with the pointer, with out turning the motor, right?
 
Last edited:

Maxwell1815

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Lima/Ohio
okay...Timing is verified...cyl 1 is at TDC (both valves closed on compression stroke) pointer is on the LDT mark, and the scored line is lined up with the pointer... Still, a no start..... i am getting fuel to the cylinders, for I have puffs of smoke coming from the stack...and I cracked open the injector lines while cranking to check further. My intank pump is working great.

Question: it doesn't seem like enough fuel is coming from the IP, it doesn't squirt out a lot of fuel, at least not as much as i suspected. maybe I have a volume problem? Any ideas?
 
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