• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Deuce won't idle after IP swap

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
222
63
Location
eldersburg maryland
well you should not be confused, what you did was replace the HH. different from assymbling an untimed engine. the key here is that the red tooth is not a timing mark, it is a removal mark for the HH.

to replace the HH set the red tooth in line with the arrow and then DO NOT TURN THE ENGINE until the job is done.

to time everything, set all the other marks correctly, ignoring the red tooth except to be sure the ip is on the correct revolution.
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
222
63
Location
eldersburg maryland
well, I found my phone under the deuce...in 2 pieces, so, until i get a new one, I have to continue with this post...

I triple checked timing, and I have fuel spraying out of each injector...
the injector sprays exactly at the same moment that cylinder is on the compression stroke. I crank and crank and crank...and nothing more than puffs of smoke out of the exhaust, but it won't fire..not even a sputter...

And again!! cyl 1 is at TDC with both valves closed...with the timing pointer aligned with the scribed mark on the IP drive gear in the little window. My FDC is bypassed, and...i think that is it. I was surprised at how little fuel sprayed out of the injector...I expected a greater volume...maybe my pump isn't pumping enough? All new fuel filters, (three of them)
so i hope by now you realize that your description of setting the timing is missing one key point and that is which revolution of the ip were you on? that scribe mark on the drive gear comes up twice per firing cycle, one is correct the other is 180 out.

just as the crank turns two revolutions per cycle, so does the ip shaft, but the cam turns one revolution per cycle and so does the HH. (because the HH plunger rotates while pumping and acts as the distributor device to direct fuel to the correct cylinder)

so assuming the HH is 180 out, you can line up the ip shaft marks, remove the 3 bolts from the ip drive gear and rotate the ip shaft one turn and put them back in and it will run.

tom
 

tm america

Active member
2,600
24
38
Location
merrillville in
Ok i am having a similar problem with a truck i just purchased...When i got it the pistons were melted.. so i tore the engine down and replaced the pistons and liners... i know they melted the pistons spraying to much ether to get it started....It will only start if i give it a shot of ether and it runs fine at higher rpm but doesnt want to idle.. it will surge badly at idle and wants to did out...At first it would only hit with ether so i pulled the fuel shut off cover it was stuck towards the off position .. I moved it to the run position and it will start off ether and run at higher rpm but no idle...If i move the fuel shut off by hand i can almost get it to idle or i can make it like it's full throttle...I think i'm gonna check the ip timing and hh timing...i think gimpy was trying to get it running before i got it but there was no compression on three cylinders.. so i assumed he probably did that already due to the covers having been off already?
My question is are there any common things that mess up in the hh or ip that can cause this problem?
 

tm america

Active member
2,600
24
38
Location
merrillville in
Ok i checked the ip timing ..It is right on now but still no start.. SO i'm guessing the hh is 180 off.Which makes sense why it won't start on it's own or idle.. Due to the timing being off causing the fuel not to fill the cup in the piston.. Instead it would fill the cylinder and cool the cylinder walls..and have to much fuel on the top of the piston to start burning...But at high rpms the cylinder is hot enough to ignite the fuel as it hits the cylinder....I'm gonna pull the hh tomorrow and turn it 180 and see what happens..Wish me luck.?
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,021
222
63
Location
eldersburg maryland
you say you checked the ip timing, but really, you did not. you left out 1 important step. go back and read previous posts and you will know if it is correct or not. ether would not melt the pistons. never. it would break the rings mostly, but not much else. check the timing before you take anything apart, it is easy to do and it may all be correct. what you describe is classic worn out HH plunger. at low rpm = low plunger speed, it will not make enough pressure to inject, so will only run at higher rpms. it would also start if you towed it fast enough to get the rpm up to 1500 or more.

tom
 
Last edited:

tm america

Active member
2,600
24
38
Location
merrillville in
Ya I'm getting more back round on what's been done to it before I got it.I checked the ip and hh timing the ip was off a little so I adjusted it but no change.I have the crank pointer on 20-lds and the marks lined up under the four bolt cover and the hh mark is one tooth to the rear of the pointer...I know they melted the pistons by having the fuel cranked up to much....
 

Maxwell1815

New member
73
0
0
Location
Lima/Ohio
i re-checked the timing last tuesday, and found out that there are 2 marks on my IP gear hub, and not only was I 180 deg out, but i was 20 deg retarded in the very beginning when it wouldn't rev up properly. Somebody must have put an extra mark on it, or maybe it got scratched when i pulled it out. Thank you everybody for your input! It is really great to have her back running again!!!:doghead:
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks