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New MEP004A owner looking for light-off sanity check

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Evening guys--I'm familiar with the MEP002A & 003A models, but this is my first branch into liquid-cooled units (besides installing brand new ones on tug boats)...For this one I've started doing basic hardware checks on the engine, fuel & cooling system, etc....changed oil & fuel filters, added 6 qts of 15/40, adding fuel in a day or so, then water (not coolant until I know it's a runner) and then onto electrical checks.

My questions as follows: Any light-off problems or known issues I need to look for? I found a post related to grounding to earth (which I do anyway) and also a post about holding the start switch engaged until voltage is reached in order to flash the field. Besides those two items I haven't located any posts that provide any hands-on advice on performing a pre-start check list. In this case I'm trying to be conservative in preventing any casualties while lighting off the unit...


I also have one of the TMs and have been reading through that one...Hoping this unit is a runner and once that's verified I'll be trying the sewerzuk single phase mod...
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
You sure an industrious fellow.
Jerry :grd:
Probably no more than most fellows on this site...figure anyone who buys a piece of equipment from a few photos has got to plan on doing some work before glory arrives, right? Looking at that row of MEPs you have, I bet they didn't just jump off the trailer in working order and you've had your share of busted knuckles and a few abrasions....and I expect we're all a little crazy too! ;)
 

leedawg

Member
270
10
18
Location
Napa / CA
Well I have a couple 005's pretty much the same machine just 2 more cyl on it. Sort of like the 003 002 are very closely related. Some stuff I went through was the fuel system on both of mine needed a lot of attention. Pumps did not work you can test these out by flipping the battle short switch on and then turning the start run switch to run and the fuel pumps should be pumping away. Next thing I would check is after you have fuel pumping remove the float switch from the top of the day tank and make sure that when the float is all the way up the fuel solenoid shuts off, and then turns on again when the float drops down. If not you will have fuel overflowing as one of my units did. And then the other one did not fill the day tank cause it had a problem with its float switch as well. Id replace both fuel filters NAPA auto parts carries the filters that fit in there off the top of my head cannot remember the part # but if you do a search you will find it I have it posted in one of my MEP 005 threads. Id replace the oil filter as well.

THe next major headache I had with both of mine was the injector pump. Im sure yours is a standyne just as mine are only four ports instead of six. So seems very common that the injector pump fuel cut off valve sticks closed due to fuel sitting in it for so long and does not allow fuel to pump. So I also posted about this and how I went about fixing it in another MEP 005 injector pump thread do a search. Basically you take off the top and work the little lever back and forth till its nice and free. ID also clean out any gunk in there real well before you run it. Most likely the governor ring is coming apart in the injection pump and it will probably have to be rebuilt by your diesel shop. The one I got to start pumping after opening it up and freeing up that valve however it does not hold RPM as well as it should under load changes and such. The other I had to send out to get rebuilt and it runs beautifully holds RPM very tight impressive. If you need to rebuild I recommend Badger Diesel in WI sucks having to wait for it and takes them awhile pretty busy but cant beat the price and they do quality work. I also rebuilt the injectors on one of mine the same one the pump was rebuilt on.

Aside from that its just little stuff WHen you first fire it up I recommend you shut it right back down after a few seconds and check for any leaks like oil or fuel and address those. Watch that oil pressure guage too make sure pressure comes up pretty quick or shut it down.. (It should do it itself but you never know) The other thing I made real sure was that your water pump is actually pumping by the time you see any temp on the temp guage for water it will probably be to late. I just squeezed the hose after it was running for a minute or two to make sure I could feel the water moving through. THe other problem both of mine have is the thermostat that control the levours do not seem to work SO I just have them set half open and never heats on either unit. The rest from there is just minor electrical checks and such pretty straight forward units to work on not much to know fire it up and let it run for a bit then put a load on it to heat up the motor and blow out any carbon deposits in the exhaust system. LEt us know how it goes perhaps a video do like watching those.
Good luck
lee
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Thanks leedawg--that's what I call a thorough response--great info & I appreciate it more than you know...hoping the IP is good as I have no spare money to pay for a rebuild. I can remove the injectors and clean them myself and also test the pop-off pressure. Hoping the spec for that is in the TM but I haven't looked yet...thanks again..time to crash here in the panhandle--stayed up too late working outside, but couldn't resist checking SS before rack time... ;)
 

PeterD

New member
622
6
0
Location
Jaffrey, NH
... added 6 qts of 15/40, ...
You may want to add another two quarts of oil, since the capacity is eight quarts, not six!

As to startup problems to look for: watch for oil leaks at the oil filter (I recommend shoving a rag below the oil filter for the first statup so you can clean up more easily) and fuel leaks. I'd run for about 3 to 5 minutes for the first run, shut down, check everything for leaks and problems. If none, start again and run longer, carefully monitoring for leaks (oil, fuel and coolant) and monitor the gauges (oil pressure and charging are the two to watch first, it will take a while for temp to get up unless you have a humongous load on it.)
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
You may want to add another two quarts of oil, since the capacity is eight quarts, not six!

As to startup problems to look for: watch for oil leaks at the oil filter (I recommend shoving a rag below the oil filter for the first statup so you can clean up more easily) and fuel leaks. I'd run for about 3 to 5 minutes for the first run, shut down, check everything for leaks and problems. If none, start again and run longer, carefully monitoring for leaks (oil, fuel and coolant) and monitor the gauges (oil pressure and charging are the two to watch first, it will take a while for temp to get up unless you have a humongous load on it.)
Thanks on the oil qty advice. I figured I needed to add more, but at 6 qts, the full mark on the dipstick was reached. Will be adding as much as possible to the filter housing (maybe 1/3-1/2 qt?) and then will add remaining 1 + quarts to the crankcase. Hadn't read the TM on oil capacity yet...thanks again for the heads-up though... 8 qts it is.... Also the short duration runs and shut-downs for leak checks sounds like a good idea. I noticed sewerzuk followed the same process during one of his start-ups...have good day & week & thanks for the assist! :D
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Leedawg,

Today I'd like to prime the fuel system. Looked in the TM for info on the fuel selector valve and couldn't locate what I needed. Can you tell me the "default" position for the fuel selector valve. I believe the one I have was pointing "aft" towards the radiator end. As a 3-position valve the TM describes the function as selecting either integral tank, off or aux tank. The unit I have has no label plate or stenciling IWO the valve "lever"...more like a "pointer". Can you tell me what the correct position for the selector valve is for either the integral and aux selection? I assume 12 o'clock position is the off selection. Thanks for any info you (or someone else) can provide.
 

leedawg

Member
270
10
18
Location
Napa / CA
Leedawg,

Today I'd like to prime the fuel system. Looked in the TM for info on the fuel selector valve and couldn't locate what I needed. Can you tell me the "default" position for the fuel selector valve. I believe the one I have was pointing "aft" towards the radiator end. As a 3-position valve the TM describes the function as selecting either integral tank, off or aux tank. The unit I have has no label plate or stenciling IWO the valve "lever"...more like a "pointer". Can you tell me what the correct position for the selector valve is for either the integral and aux selection? I assume 12 o'clock position is the off selection. Thanks for any info you (or someone else) can provide.
Yeah off the top of my head cannot remember which way that lever is pointing. im going to go out and look for you in about 30 minutes here. Ill even take a pic for ya.. When priming make sure the fuel coming from the last filter is running nice and clean before hooking up to the injection pump. Mine sort of had some coffee ground type stuff in it when I was going to go hook it up not good for the injector..
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Yeah off the top of my head cannot remember which way that lever is pointing. im going to go out and look for you in about 30 minutes here. Ill even take a pic for ya.. When priming make sure the fuel coming from the last filter is running nice and clean before hooking up to the injection pump. Mine sort of had some coffee ground type stuff in it when I was going to go hook it up not good for the injector..
Already disconnected the hose to the IP in order to drain into a gallon jug during priming pump run...assuming the steel line is the return line, not supply...standing by...thanks!
 

leedawg

Member
270
10
18
Location
Napa / CA
Already disconnected the hose to the IP in order to drain into a gallon jug during priming pump run...assuming the steel line is the return line, not supply...standing by...thanks!

Yup the steel line is the return line.

SO you were rigth pointer toward the radiator here is a pic of it for ya.

Let us know how it goes for ya..

lee
IMAG0723.jpg
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Jerry,

You know where I can get a red fault indicator bulb for the MEP004A? I've got one burned out on this one. Heard that Saturn Surplus sells bulbs, but from the TM I can't really determine the NSN for the bulb...several indicator lights listed the parts TM....thanks.
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Lee,

That clears it up..looks like 9 o'clock is skid mounted tank, 12 o'clock is off & 6 o'clock is aux tank. Now that it's daylight, I can see the label plate on our unit, but it's heavily painted...

I'll run priming pump awhile to fill filters and let drain into the jug before connecting line to IP...thanks again! BTW, I discovered the day tank drain valve was opened so I lost about a cup of fuel before I figured that out....haven't tested the day tank float switch (solenoid?) yet either...If all goes well, hoping to light this one off today...
 
Last edited:

leedawg

Member
270
10
18
Location
Napa / CA
Jerry,

You know where I can get a red fault indicator bulb for the MEP004A? I've got one burned out on this one. Heard that Saturn Surplus sells bulbs, but from the TM I can't really determine the NSN for the bulb...several indicator lights listed the parts TM....thanks.

Here is the bulb you are looking for or you could contact delks im sure they have them as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-MEP-005A-...her_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item43adf64314&vxp=mtr


Lee,

That clears it up..looks like 3 o'clock is skid mounted tank, 12 o'clock is off & 6 o'clock is aux tank. Now that it's daylight, I can see the label plate on our unit, but it's heavily painted...

I'll run priming pump awhile to fill filters and let drain into the jug before connecting line to IP...thanks again! BTW, I discovered the day tank drain valve was opened so I lost about a cup of fuel before I figured that out....haven't tested the day tank float switch (solenoid?) yet either...If all goes well, hoping to light this one off today...
Sounds like you may have a runner on your hand there. Take some video of it post it up and some pics.. Love seeing them dont know why even though they all look the same.. No worries happy to help out another member get these things back up and running.

Lee
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Here is the bulb you are looking for or you could contact delks im sure they have them as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/4-MEP-005A-...her_Vehicle_Parts&hash=item43adf64314&vxp=mtr




Sounds like you may have a runner on your hand there. Take some video of it post it up and some pics.. Love seeing them dont know why even though they all look the same.. No worries happy to help out another member get these things back up and running.

Lee
Lee,

Don't know yet if it'll run & produce voltage, but hopefully all will be good. On the bulb, the link you sent shows the parts breakdown as if the red lens is separate from the bulb. On mine, what I thought was a red bulb just unscrews..maybe the bulb has a red cover over it that slips off? No hurry on that part though..will shop around for a replacement or someone may have some spares laying around. Thanks again--time to go out & get to work..
 

leedawg

Member
270
10
18
Location
Napa / CA
Hum I see what you mean im sorry did not notice that. however I do not know what they are talking about then in this add cause I can also find another listing the lens part #8 in that diagram. However on mine just as yours the entire bulb comes out as one unit with the red plastic appearing to be permanently connected to the actual bulb that screws in. YOur best bet is to probably contact delks and just get some from him.

lee
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Well I have a couple 005's pretty much the same machine just 2 more cyl on it. Sort of like the 003 002 are very closely related. Some stuff I went through was the fuel system on both of mine needed a lot of attention. Pumps did not work you can test these out by flipping the battle short switch on and then turning the start run switch to run and the fuel pumps should be pumping away. Next thing I would check is after you have fuel pumping remove the float switch from the top of the day tank and make sure that when the float is all the way up the fuel solenoid shuts off, and then turns on again when the float drops down. If not you will have fuel overflowing as one of my units did. And then the other one did not fill the day tank cause it had a problem with its float switch as well. Id replace both fuel filters NAPA auto parts carries the filters that fit in there off the top of my head cannot remember the part # but if you do a search you will find it I have it posted in one of my MEP 005 threads. Id replace the oil filter as well.

THe next major headache I had with both of mine was the injector pump. Im sure yours is a standyne just as mine are only four ports instead of six. So seems very common that the injector pump fuel cut off valve sticks closed due to fuel sitting in it for so long and does not allow fuel to pump. So I also posted about this and how I went about fixing it in another MEP 005 injector pump thread do a search. Basically you take off the top and work the little lever back and forth till its nice and free. ID also clean out any gunk in there real well before you run it. Most likely the governor ring is coming apart in the injection pump and it will probably have to be rebuilt by your diesel shop. The one I got to start pumping after opening it up and freeing up that valve however it does not hold RPM as well as it should under load changes and such. The other I had to send out to get rebuilt and it runs beautifully holds RPM very tight impressive. If you need to rebuild I recommend Badger Diesel in WI sucks having to wait for it and takes them awhile pretty busy but cant beat the price and they do quality work. I also rebuilt the injectors on one of mine the same one the pump was rebuilt on.

Aside from that its just little stuff WHen you first fire it up I recommend you shut it right back down after a few seconds and check for any leaks like oil or fuel and address those. Watch that oil pressure guage too make sure pressure comes up pretty quick or shut it down.. (It should do it itself but you never know) The other thing I made real sure was that your water pump is actually pumping by the time you see any temp on the temp guage for water it will probably be to late. I just squeezed the hose after it was running for a minute or two to make sure I could feel the water moving through. THe other problem both of mine have is the thermostat that control the levours do not seem to work SO I just have them set half open and never heats on either unit. The rest from there is just minor electrical checks and such pretty straight forward units to work on not much to know fire it up and let it run for a bit then put a load on it to heat up the motor and blow out any carbon deposits in the exhaust system. LEt us know how it goes perhaps a video do like watching those.
Good luck
lee
Lee,

Selector valve set in proper position, running fuel pumps for several minutes..no fuel yet to IP & pumps seem to be "dead-headed"--making the sound as if the lines are pressed up & as if the supply line was connected to IP vice feeding into an oil jug...will start checking each filter for flow through the canisters...will check free flow for each hose (these look new). Haven't removed bottom of the pumps to check for screen clogging either...beyond that, any other ideas??

Thanks,

Kevin
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
Hum I see what you mean im sorry did not notice that. however I do not know what they are talking about then in this add cause I can also find another listing the lens part #8 in that diagram. However on mine just as yours the entire bulb comes out as one unit with the red plastic appearing to be permanently connected to the actual bulb that screws in. YOur best bet is to probably contact delks and just get some from him.

lee
No prob--will check around...thanks..
 

leedawg

Member
270
10
18
Location
Napa / CA
Lee,

Selector valve set in proper position, running fuel pumps for several minutes..no fuel yet to IP & pumps seem to be "dead-headed"--making the sound as if the lines are pressed up & as if the supply line was connected to IP vice feeding into an oil jug...will start checking each filter for flow through the canisters...will check free flow for each hose (these look new). Haven't removed bottom of the pumps to check for screen clogging either...beyond that, any other ideas??

Thanks,

Kevin

So first thing I would do is take out the float switch from the day tank. Then flip the start switch to run flip the battle short switch on and then look in there and see if fuel is coming out of the solenoid at the top of the day tank. Slide the top float up and see if it stops if that is working then you are getting fuel to where it needs to be and you just need to bleed the filter canister so you can get fuel to the IP. It is gravity feed after day tank all the way to the IP.

Check it out.
 

1800 Diesel

Member
768
26
18
Location
Santa Rosa County, FL
So first thing I would do is take out the float switch from the day tank. Then flip the start switch to run flip the battle short switch on and then look in there and see if fuel is coming out of the solenoid at the top of the day tank. Slide the top float up and see if it stops if that is working then you are getting fuel to where it needs to be and you just need to bleed the filter canister so you can get fuel to the IP. It is gravity feed after day tank all the way to the IP.

Check it out.

Lee,

Got it running before I saw your post here...It seems like SS website was down for over an hour--at least I could not get the page to load here in FL....now a minor but solvable problem of oil pouring out top of oil canister....will remove filter and check placement of all parts per TM & also confirm gasket is seated and lid is pulling down evenly. For the short time I had it running freq was up around 65 & when I tried to slow engine down, freq didn't go down any...but unit only ran for about 15 seconds when my son alerted me to oil gusher....

Forgot to add that one of the wires connected to the IP was broken off--fixed that prior to light-off. Also there's a pair of wires hanging over by the starting aid (ether?) canister...one wire end taped, the other with ring connector, no tape...looks like 16 gauge or at least something heavier than 18 gauge...If I get the time later, I'll try to get the wire numbers...
 
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