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2000 CUCV-II Crew Cab,(The Twin) Florida repair.

Warthog

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Morning Phil.

M1075s LSSV used a 1/2" spacer on the front wheels for the HMMWV rins to fit. I did a test fit on the CUCV-II and it looks like possibly a 2" spacer will be required.I didn't want to buy a 2" set just for testing. I am looking for a cheap used set on CL.... ;-)
 

Warthog

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Something you may want to check/fix on your trucks is the horn button cover.

When I got mine the Chevy emblem was missing. I looked for a year at the Pull-A-Part for a good cover. Most where always missing the emblem. I finally found one that was usable.

Upon closer instection, the design is bad. The metal button uses the outside edges to make the ground contact. You can see the wear pattern on the metal part.

The center does nothing. The way the cover was designed, there is no support for the fragile emblem. Most people push the center of the cover to honk the horn, not the edges. I know I do.

Since the center isn't supported well, the emblems molded plastic starts to crack and break. After a while the plastic completely breaks and the emblem falls out.

On the "new" cover I picked up, the plastic is already cracked and the emblem is a little loose.

My solution was to fill the unsupported area with black RTV. Now that area is still flexable but solid.

YMMV
 

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Stonepicker1

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Went to DMV to get the title done......GL filled it out wrong and the DMV wouldn't take it. I called Jean Payton at GL(Titling Coordinator) and she said they were having a lots of problems lately. She said if I don't get it to work out by Monday to send it back to them again.
 

Stonepicker1

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Had to replace the PMD last night after towing the truck home from work. I used my Dually and a tow bar to get the truck home.

Truck started fine when it was cold, but would not start when warm. Engine would just crank. If the engine was cold it would start.

The passenger side battery was completely dead, maybe the bad PMD was draining the juice out of the battery. The driver's side battery was fully charged.

Truck is running great now with the new PMD cooler kit with #9 resister. Took about 15 minute to install.
 

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Warthog

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Curious, do you remove the intake to get to the PMD? I have a new PMD in the glovebox with the relocation cable. I just have never installed it.

I have found that if I leave the Blackout Service switch on, the 12v passenger battery runs down after a couple of days of sitting. I haven't traced down the drain but I am leaning towards the Duvac-II
 
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Recovry4x4

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Anytime I was faced with a failing PMD I would just leave the failed one in place on the pump and remote mount the replacement. You can get the plug off but trying to get the PMD off is not worth the effort.
 

Stonepicker1

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Curious, do you remove the intake to get to the PMD? I have a new PMD in the glovebox with the relocation cable. I just have never installed it.
Yes, remove the cover and with a long screwdriver unplug the cable that plugs into the PMD. With a needle nose pliers pull the cable up so you can get to it(it's a short cable) and just plug your new relocation into the connector. Leave the old PMD on the injector pump like Kenny said.

[/QUOTE]I have found that if I leave the Blackout Service switch on, the 12v passenger battery runs down after a couple of days of sitting. I haven't traced down the drain but I am leaning towards the Duvac-II[/QUOTE]

Correct, when the Blackout switch is left in the on position, it will drain the passenger batteries after a few days( it's noted in the CUCV-II Supplement Manual )
 

Stonepicker1

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Well the little oil leak turn into a big leak the other day. Oil got to one of my alternator on my way to work and fried it. Had to replace the factory oil cooler lines with an upgraded Cooler and Stainless Steel braided Teflon Hoses.
I have new alternators on their way from Rock Auto(half of price of the local parts store) Should be here Friday.
What a pain to change. Test it today to work and back.....no oil leaks.:-D
Getting it ready for the trip to the GA Rally.:jumpin:
 

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Warthog

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I figured out what causes the batteries to run down when the Service switch is left on. Two relays are energized on for the headlights and one for the stop/turn lights.
 

Stonepicker1

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I figured out what causes the batteries to run down when the Service switch is left on. Two relays are energized on for the headlights and one for the stop/turn lights.
Interesting, My single cab keeps draining the passenger side battery in about three days. That's with the service switch off.

I hooked a scanner up and it said I had a short in the lighting system....need to track this down.
 
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