M35A2 air pack questions

[Dhallftworth]

I'm in the process of working through my brake system on my 67' deuce, and I have a couple questions regarding the airpack. I tried to search before asking, but couldn't find these specific things:
1. Oiling the air pack? I've heard several people talk about using air oil to oil it, but where do you add the oil? I've heard there's an Allen screw, also pull the j-line? Where is best and where is the Allen screw?
2. Speed bleeder screw for the air pack? I'm installing Dorman p/n: 12707 speed bleeder screws on my wheel cylinders, do you recommend also installing one for the air pack? Do you know the size and thread pattern or a part number for the bleeder screw?
3. Bleeding the Master Cylinder? On my new and old m/c, I don't have anywhere to bleed it. Am I missing something when people are talking about bleeding it?

I appreciate all of the help, and I have went through the TM's for my deuce. These are just some questions that I have left.

 

[sandcobra164]

1. Oiling the airpack. On the back of the airpack is where you will find the plug to add oil. I couldn't get mine out and feared I'd strip it so I removed the J pipe. I oiled it with PB Blaster as it was stuck from none use. Brakes were much better afterwards.
2. The bleeder screws are the same as the wheel cylinders.
3. The bleeder screw on the airpack is what bleeds the master. Bleed this first and then move to the passenger side rear most axle. Always bleed the wheel cylinders the furtherest away and work towards the closer ones. Check the master often when bleeding, you don't want it to run out and start pumping air into the lines.

 

[Dhallftworth]

2. The bleeder screws are the same as the wheel cylinders.

Even though it takes a different size wrench? Would you recommend a speed bleeder for this?

 

[doghead]

I recommend do automatic bleeders and use a power bleeder.

DOT 5 gets tiny bubbles trapped in it from pumping alot(when manually bleeding).

 

[Dhallftworth]

DOT 5 gets tiny bubbles trapped in it from pumping alot(when manually bleeding).

I've noticed the small bubbles. Being new to the deuce, I don't have a power bleeder yet. I need to build one.

For or lubing the air pack, I picked up some PB BLASTER brand Famous Blaster ATC, powerful Air Tool Cleaner from NAPA. I saw someone mention a lube that also cleans the air pack in a different thread, but they didn't say what it was called. I don't know if this is what they were talking about, but PB Blaster works great, so this should too.

 

[doghead]

I would not use that.

Simply use light oil.

 

[Dhallftworth]

I would not use that.

Simply use light oil.

Any particular reason? Light oil, wd-40 or like 3-1 oil?

 

[doghead]

Hydraulic oil/10wt

Because that is what is specified in the LO.

 

[Dhallftworth]

Is this the Allen screw for lubing the air pack?

 

[clinto]

Is this the Allen screw for lubing the air pack?

That's the bleeder. Everything you could ever want to know is linked at the following post: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-on-air-pack&p=1123813&viewfull=1#post1123813

If you click there, you'll see links to thread discussing what to use to lube them, the differences in lubing the long and short airpacks, you name it, it's all there.

 

[gimpyrobb]

You have the "short" air pack. There is no allen bolt to remove and pour lube in.

 

[Dhallftworth]

You have the "short" air pack. There is no allen bolt to remove and pour lube in.

Is the only way to lube it, through the very difficult to get through j-pipe holes?

 

[gimpyrobb]

I have never needed to lube mine(also a short one). I think that you might have to go through the j tube. Maybe search the forums and see if a shorty has been taken apart. It might be easier to pull the air can off the back.

 

[welldigger]

I have never needed to lube mine(also a short one). I think that you might have to go through the j tube. Maybe search the forums and see if a shorty has been taken apart. It might be easier to pull the air can off the back.

After studying the short airpak inside and out I don't believe it was intended to be lubed. The air cylinder doesn't have a felt wiper like the long one. Just a rubber cup seal. They also did not add any provision for lubing it.

If you are inclined to lube it then it would me much easier to just remove the whole air cannister. The spring inside is captured by the seal and that j-pipe is rediculously hard to remove. I don't know what they put on the flare nut or how hard they tightened it but it is in there. Be sure to replace the o ring on the other end of the j pipe.

 

[Dhallftworth]

My j-tube came off relatively easy and the end with the o-ring came out easily. I got a little lube in it, but probably not enough to make a difference.
Here's something weird I noticed: when I was pushing down on the brake pedal, I noticed that the T fitting, where the vent for the master cylinder is connected, was bubbling. This seems weird to me, does anybody have a clue why this would be doing that?

 

[welldigger]

Any idea what liquid was bubbling? Water or brake fluid? And which tee specifically are you referring to? Sounds like you either have moisture in your vent lines or brake fluid is bypassing somewhere.

Have you drained your air tanks?

 

[Dhallftworth]

Any idea what liquid was bubbling? Water or brake fluid? And which tee specifically are you referring to? Sounds like you either have moisture in your vent lines or brake fluid is bypassing somewhere.

Have you drained your air tanks?

I'm not sure what it was, and I have but not in a week or so. Just noticed it today when I was bleeding the brakes.

 

[welldigger]

Drain your tanks after every drive. At least when you know when your done for the day. Water will destroy an air pak. Thats why I had to replace mine. Dang thing was rusted solid.

Is it bubbling around a fitting? Cause that means its leaking. There shouldn't be liquid in any of those air lines. Though, without an air dryer some moisture will get in there.

 

[Dhallftworth]

Drain your tanks after every drive. At least when you know when your done for the day. Water will destroy an air pak. Thats why I had to replace mine. Dang thing was rusted solid.

Is it bubbling around a fitting? Cause that means its leaking. There shouldn't be liquid in any of those air lines. Though, without an air dryer some moisture will get in there.

Is there anyway to keep the tanks dry, or has anyone installed electric solenoids on their tanks?

 

[peashooter]

Even though it takes a different size wrench? Would you recommend a speed bleeder for this?

Somewhere I ran across a person recommending a cheap "Sillcock Key" for removing the airpack plugs on the Long style AirPaks. HERE is a link. They are easy to find at a home improvment store in the plumbing section and cost about $5-8