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M35A2 air pack questions

gimpyrobb

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Is there anyway to keep the tanks dry, or has anyone installed electric solenoids on their tanks?
I installed spring loaded valves. Once your done driving, you pull a wire rope and they dump the air. No climbing under the truck.

Somewhere I ran across a person recommending a cheap "Sillcock Key" for removing the airpack plugs on the Long style AirPaks. HERE is a link. They are easy to find at a home improvment store in the plumbing section and cost about $5-8
Problem is, half of the air-packs I have looked at, need an Allen wrench for the plug. So make sure you look at your air-pack before buying anything for it!
 

welldigger

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I'm thinking of installing an air dryer myself. Bewteen how expensive air paks are and the fact that I have an air o matic kit in the way I believe it will save me a lot of money in the future.

As gimp said, there are spring loaded drain valves with a pull cord that are very nice and also automatic drain valves. Not sure how those work but people seem to like them.
 

Dhallftworth

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I'm thinking of installing an air dryer myself. Bewteen how expensive air paks are and the fact that I have an air o matic kit in the way I believe it will save me a lot of money in the future.

As gimp said, there are spring loaded drain valves with a pull cord that are very nice and also automatic drain valves. Not sure how those work but people seem to like them.
i was thinking about a dryer and also an automatic oiler. I don't think the oiler is completely necessary, but I also don't think it would hurt anything. What's y'all's opinion? I have a setup that I bought for a big air compressor that I was going to purchase and never did. If I could figure out where to plumb it in, I think it would be a good addition.
 

welldigger

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I advise against an oiler. The air pak requires minimal lubrication and nothing else does. Too much oil can cause dirt and other contaminants to accumulate inside air lines and other compents. Clean dry air is most desirable.
 

clinto

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Totally off the subject, but I loathe automatic oilers. In my limited experience, automatic oilers over-oil the equipment and then when moisture makes it in, the overage of oil makes a sloppy, gooey mess which requires the machine to be disassembled and cleaned.
 

Dhallftworth

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Y'all are correct, it's probably better to forget about the oiler. I'll just install an air dryer and call it good.
Y'all said it was safe to pull the take off of the air pack, so I think I'll do that tomorrow after disassembling the brakes. Any tips for me when I do this?
 

Dhallftworth

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I've got a blank area on the left side on the engine compartment, where the heater should be, but I'm in Texas and don't need one of those.. I'm thinking of mounting my dryer there, and also have my remote brake reservoir to mount in that area. Does that seem like a good area for it to be mounted?
 

welldigger

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No mount it under the bed near the air tanks like the a3. Also I found a 24v air dryer thats a hundred bucks cheaper than the pure air plus. Its the bendix ad-9 from anythingtruck.com.
 

welldigger

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I don't know if I like that location. It seems vulnerable while off-road to me. I was thinking under the hood for mine too.
It might would work but between the very hot air coming from the compressor and the engine heat I would be afraid of damaging the dryer. The long run from the compressor to near the tanks gives the air a chance to cool down. Plus theres no engine heat. I do agree that if you were to high center it could hit it. You should be able to fit it flush or maybe a little higher than the frame rails. On our bobber project we had to lower the dryer to clear the 105 bed. It still doesn't dangle too low. The tool box would get torn off long before the dryer.
 

doghead

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Contact Haldex and ask where it should be mounted(unless your a better air brake engineer than them).

I'd bet there is a reason they are always mounted low.
 
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