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Oil all over motor, where should I start looking?

clinto

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Dhallftworth

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I think I'm on the right track:

Before I got home today, I had a buddy of mine degrease and pressure wash the engine. Upon doing that, I think he found the weak spot in every consumable under the hood. I drained the oil and have a total of roughly 3 gallons that came out. I couldn't get the square plug out under the filters, but when I popped the canisters loose, they were empty. I replaced the metal filters that were inside with new Baldwin filters and gaskets. The truck took 5.5 gallons of Rotella 15w-40 to get her fill. I filled the radiator with water, and then started the truck. It started up with out hesitation and I set her idle at 800rpm. The truck warmed to around 120-130 when I noticed a leak starting under the radiator. Looks like the radiator is heading to the shop to get redone, unless I can find the spot and braze it. I uploaded a few pics, to show what a pressure washer does to completely warn out parts.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgView attachment trim.487DACEB-F58C-43DB-9535-3DE6B53EF75D.MOV
 

rchalmers3

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Regarding the oil leaks, I overheated a deuce and the engine spewed oil from the front of the head gasket. It made a heck of a mess in the engine compartment. After cooling the engine down, the leak stopped. I cleaned the engine and the entire compartment and have not noticed any appreciable effects of overheating...... so far.

Rick
 

steelandcanvas

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Your "Buddy" probably should not have pressured washed the fabric heater air ducts, they can't handle that type of water force. You said you found a coolant leak, where did the coat of oil come from?
 

Dhallftworth

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It actually didn't bother me, him messing up the consumables. It allows me to see where the weak points under the good are hiding. I'm not 100% on where the oil came from, but I'm thinking it blew out of the oil fill cap, when the truck over heated. Did you watch the video attached with the pictures? Did you hear any weird noises from the engine running?
 

dabtl

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Anything formulated for diesel engines. Standard auto antifreeze does not contian the additives necessary to prevent cavitation inside wet sleeve diesels.
I put on a coolant filter kit to remove the crud and to add the Special Coolant Additives to the coolant. I change the filter once each year. One deuce really had a lot of crud when I got it and the filter really shows it. The other deuce usually shows very little crud when changed.

cranetruck did a thread on the installation and I recommend it to all.
 

welldigger

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I put on a coolant filter kit to remove the crud and to add the Special Coolant Additives to the coolant. I change the filter once each year. One deuce really had a lot of crud when I got it and the filter really shows it. The other deuce usually shows very little crud when changed.

cranetruck did a thread on the installation and I recommend it to all.
That strongly depends on what antifreeze you use. I use OAT antifreeze and it specifically says NOT to use a coolant filter because the sca's are not compatible with OAT coolant. Also OAT coolant does not require the testing and sca recharge every 6 months. Though if you prefer old fashioned fully formulated coolant that works also.
 

dabtl

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That strongly depends on what antifreeze you use. I use OAT antifreeze and it specifically says NOT to use a coolant filter because the sca's are not compatible with OAT coolant. Also OAT coolant does not require the testing and sca recharge every 6 months. Though if you prefer old fashioned fully formulated coolant that works also.
I use my deuces so little that I use the two charge SCA filter. I did it mostly to eliminate the crud build up from the coolant.

I had not seen the OAT stuff until recently, but I decided to stick with the cheap green stuff and the SCA.
 
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