ammeter frequency and voltage gauges

[Jimc]

Yes i know about the hardy ones. They are just sealed with a clear plastic film and not waterproof at all. I would not classify mine as waterproof since they are not submersible. They do have a glass lens just like the original gauges and are sealed from the front by that. Only way you can damage them is with the control cabinet open and a heavy spray of water inside. The back side of the gauge is in an enclosure but not a watertight one.

 

[Jimc]

ok i have been back and forth with the manufacturer for the electronics for the gauges. i want to get some opinions here. they have a combo gauge available that will do voltage and amps on the same display. as i previously posted i was trying to make these things a 1:1 replacement. with the combo meter however you can get rid of your voltage gauge and ammeter and replace with 2 combo meters and you will be able to independently display voltage and amp draw on each leg to help with balancing loads. so in the end you could have one frequency meter and 2 leg monitors/combo meters. only drawback is you would need to buy 2 gauges to do that. i guess if you didnt want to run like that you could just buy one meter and just monitor one leg as voltage should be the same and current should be somewhat close (in a perfect world). the 2 combo gauges would certainly be the better way to go and an improvement from original. big question is if you guys had your ammeter go out on you would you rather just spend $45 on just a straight ammeter that monitored one leg or would you be willing to do $85-90 for a pair to replace and upgrade a bit. some things to consider i guess is going rate from the surplus places for that gauge is about $75 for an original 20-30year old used replacement gauge. that would be slightly cheaper i guess. any thoughts?

 

[Isaac-1]

I personally would be good either way, although the rewiring would have to be more creative if there are 2 amp meters, because as I understand it the amp meter selector switch must ground out connections not in use coming from the CT, not just leave them open so they would be easy to tap from the terminal strip. I have not confirmed this in practice with a meter from the terminal strip though.

Ike

p.s. the square freq meter I ordered should be here tomorrow, will let you know what it looks like.

 

[Jimc]

well the new meters come with a small transformer pickup coil. one would just go on each leg and send the signal to the gauge making that part of it quite easy. tjim and i were talking and he did say something about the original 2 wires needing to be grounded or something of that nature.

 

[m16ty]

Yes i know about the hardy ones. They are just sealed with a clear plastic film and not waterproof at all. I would not classify mine as waterproof since they are not submersible. They do have a glass lens just like the original gauges and are sealed from the front by that. Only way you can damage them is with the control cabinet open and a heavy spray of water inside. The back side of the gauge is in an enclosure but not a watertight one.

That sounds good. I'm not planning on dropping my 003 in a lake but wanted to make sure if the generator got rained on these gauges wouldn't quit.

ok i have been back and forth with the manufacturer for the electronics for the gauges. i want to get some opinions here. they have a combo gauge available that will do voltage and amps on the same display. as i previously posted i was trying to make these things a 1:1 replacement. with the combo meter however you can get rid of your voltage gauge and ammeter and replace with 2 combo meters and you will be able to independently display voltage and amp draw on each leg to help with balancing loads. so in the end you could have one frequency meter and 2 leg monitors/combo meters. only drawback is you would need to buy 2 gauges to do that. i guess if you didnt want to run like that you could just buy one meter and just monitor one leg as voltage should be the same and current should be somewhat close (in a perfect world). the 2 combo gauges would certainly be the better way to go and an improvement from original. big question is if you guys had your ammeter go out on you would you rather just spend $45 on just a straight ammeter that monitored one leg or would you be willing to do $85-90 for a pair to replace and upgrade a bit. some things to consider i guess is going rate from the surplus places for that gauge is about $75 for an original 20-30year old used replacement gauge. that would be slightly cheaper i guess. any thoughts?

Personally, I'd rather have the right gauges in the factory locations.

 

[3dAngus]

I can go along with anything on this one. Just do whatever you feel is in your best interest first, then go from there.
I'm along for the ride.

 

[Jimc]

well what i was thinking is with the combo meter you can have more options with. you can simply use it to replace one meter or both. so for guys that feel like m16 then the same gauge will read amps and volts. just put the gauge in the location you want. for people that would like to monitor both legs independently then you just buy a pair. i was really all set to do just a single ammeter and be done but when the manufacturer offered me that dual gauge option and it wasnt too much more expensive it kinda made me think a little about other options.

 

[Crawdaddy]

I'd want the frequency meter since mine doesn't work more than it works.

 

[bsorcs]

Timing is everything...scary!

Last run of the 003 was just before the hard freeze, during which I noted that the amp and volt meters were zeroed; haven't re-visited them since then, beyond verifying that connections are intact and tight. I'd just as soon stay with individual gauges even though primary use will be split phase. Regarding balancing, I'm leaning toward consolidating must-have circuits in one of my two panels to reduce the concern.

Still looking for 'the right' transfer switch.

 

[epitts]

I need a frequency meter as mine has a mind of it's own as to when it will work.

 

[Jimc]

i hear thatt. i have a couple myself that are a little bouncy. i dont know if i mentioned it but the frequency meters dont need a transducer or anything like that. you can just hook it to power and its good to go. seems the frequency meter is the one most people have trouble with.

 

[Jimc]

update,

i have these almost ready to go. the electronics are in route and i have everything else here. i made some little changes and decided make them a little nicer. i designed and had faces printed up and changed the enclosure to pretty much fully enclose the electronics to make these way more weather resistant. the gauge itself mounts from behind the panel and the bezel goes on the front of the panel basically sandwiching it. the gauge will be supplied with stainless slotted screws to match original. as you can see in the pic these can match right in with your original old gauges.

 

[3dAngus]

Those look fantastic.
Is the price line still good?

 

[Jimc]

i havent totaled everything up but should be within a few dollars of estimated.

 

[truck1]

Will these fit the panel face of a MEP-016 D ? And are you producing a voltmeter also?

 

[Jimc]

yes there is a voltmeter/ammeter available. one gauge will read both. as for size and fitment i really cant say since i dont have a 16d here to try it on. these will fit a standard 2 3/4" hole. OD of the bezel is 3.5". just take some quick measurements of yours and you will know. there is alot of standardization through military equipment so i would say if they look and measure the same then its probably the same gauge.

 

[Crawdaddy]

The 016b gauges are smaller than the 002/003 gauges. Without measuring, I'd say the OD of the mounted gauge is less than 2".

 

[Jimc]

Thanks for that info. I guess only thing you could do is providing there is room is to open the hole up to 2.75".

 

[Crawdaddy]

I measured the 016B gauge today. The OD of the face is 2-5/8 which should put the hole in the front panel around 2-3/8 or 2-1/2.

 

[Jimc]

Thats probably a standard 2" gauge. Im sure the gauge would work no problem but the hole would need to be opened up a bit providing there is room of course. If its something you wanted to do i could even provide a self adhesive template.