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Starting issue now

robkiller

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Colorado Springs CO
So i was running the generator Mep003a and one of the leads came of the battery. This of course shut the system down. I know this is a charging issue but this caused a bigger problem. The fuse on the front of the control panel the dc fuse keeps popping when i try to switch the master switch to aux/prime. It wont blow when turning on the glow plugs or the control panel lights. But once i try to turn the switch to prime/aux or anything else it pops back out. I have no idea what’s wrong any help would be very appreciated.

Please help
 
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doghead

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Unplug your fuel pumps, see if the dc breaker still pops.

I've seen this happen before with the batteries getting disconnected and the capacitor(RF choke) shorts out.

If unplugging your pumps solves the short, plug them in one at a time to figure out which one it is.

You can simply eliminate the capacitor all together. Just cut it out and butt splice the wire back together.
 

robkiller

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Location
Colorado Springs CO
Unplug your fuel pumps, see if the dc breaker still pops.


I've seen this happen before with the batteries getting disconnected and the capacitor(RF choke) shorts out.

If unplugging your pumps solves the short, plug them in one at a time to figure out which one it is.

You can simply eliminate the capacitor all together. Just cut it out and butt splice the wire back together.
So that worked it looks like its the main fuel pump the one on the inside of the gen set. So where is that capacitor located? Does it hurt anything if I bypass it permanently?
 

doghead

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The capacitor is the thing in the tin/metal that the wire goes through(and has one bolt holding it to the frame).

It hurts nothing to remove it.
 
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doghead

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I circled the capacitors with a red circle, in the picture.

Simply cut the wire on either side of it, and butt splice the wires together on each one (or just the bad one).
 

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doghead

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You are very welcome.:doghead:
 
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robkiller

Member
206
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Location
Colorado Springs CO
She still starts hard with smoke and studder on one cylinder until warm. I have not loaded tested it yet so we will see. I expect the load test will be the place I see the difference with recalibrated injectors.
 

Jimc

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Mullica, nj
rob as jerry said the valve adjustment is a regular scheduled operator maintenance procedure. there is a step by step all spelled out in the -12.
 

robkiller

Member
206
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Location
Colorado Springs CO
That does not look so bad. Whats everyone's experience should I be ready to replace the valve cover gaskets? The only challenge I see is getting the engine to an ambient temp of 70 degress when I hope its in the 40s when I work on it.
 

Jimc

Member
725
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Location
Mullica, nj
flywheel housing. there is a hole with a screw on metal pointer. every valve cover i have taken off the gasket gets destroyed since its stuck to the head and the cover. the gaskets are cheap though and are easily found.
 

storeman

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Mathews County, VA
As JimC said, flywheel housing, not fan housing. As you stand in front of injector pump, look to the left and you will see the timing hole. Flywheel markings are often hard to find but, once found, clean them up and use a bit of white paint on them to make the future easier. 70 degrees is no big deal. Run the unit for a few minutes before you pull the valve cover carefully with use of a puddy knife and you may save the gasket.
 
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