Fuel Lines

[rustystud]

A lot of people have problems with fuel line replacement as the stock fittings are an odd duck 5 AN (37 degree JIC ). This is what I have done to my MEP-003a. This is also what we use on our busses. There "DOT" brake line hose with compression fittings. I changed out all the lines after I cleaned up my fuel pumps. Also removed one pump and am keeping it for a backup. The only problem is you have to make up a fuel tank suction pipe. I took one of the 90 degree fittings and drilled out the bottom to 5/16", then using a 14" long piece of 1/4" copper tubing I soldered it in place. Works great !
I should mention that the hose is only $1.00 per ft. If you have to replace a line all you will have to buy is a new ferrule and the hose.

 

[doghead]

stock fittings are an odd duck (37 degree JIC

This is a national standard and easily found at any industrial hose supplier.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JIC_fitting

 

[cuad4u]

I bought several MEP 002A and 003A gens in "cannibalized" condition. That means that lots of parts were missing. Some gauges were missing. Fuel pumps were missing. Fuel filter assemblies were missing. Fuel lines were missing. Oil filter canisters were missing, etc, etc. In order to get them running I took several non-military short cuts. So far these short cuts have not caused any problems.

I bought an after-market two section diesel tractor fuel filter assembly for $35 and installed it in place of the missing military three-section filter assembly.

Instead of trying to find military type fuel lines and fittings, I did the following. I removed the military 37 degree fittings from everything - from the fuel tank all the way to the IP and everything in between. Once the fittings are removed, the fuel tank, fuel pumps and IP all have standard 1/4 inch pipe threads. I bought the necessary 1/4 inch pipe thread brass hose barb fittings from the local NAPA store and bought 1/4 inch diesel rated flexible fuel line (hose). I cut the fuel line (hose) to the necessary lengths, installed it in the hose barb fittings, and secured it with standard radiator hose clamps.

There may be valid reasons why one should not do this, but so far all gens are running and operating perfectly and everything was purchased from the local auto parts store.

 

[doghead]

I removed the military 37 degree fittings from everything

37 degree JIC fittings are used world wide as a standard. Nothing special or "military" about them(other than there is a military standard that coveres them).

 

[Chainbreaker]

The only problem is you have to make up a fuel tank suction pipe. I took one of the 90 degree fittings and drilled out the bottom to 5/16", then using a 14" long piece of 1/4" copper tubing I soldered it in place. Works great

Just as an FYI - I would reconsider using copper tubing for a diesel draw tube. My understanding is that copper and biodiesel are incompatible (not sure of the chemical reaction but apparently there is one over time). Here in Oregon last I heard, as of Feb 2011, it was 5% biodiesel legislated to be required in all pump diesel, some places it is up to 20% at the pump according to the sticker on pump. (Note: In OR it does NOT have to be labeled as containing biodiesel at the pump unless over 5%: http://www.oregon.gov/ODA/MSD/Pages/b5_notification.aspx Not sure about WA where you are located.

Rather than making my own I used these guys to purchase a brass draw tube for my auxiliary fuel tank:

http://www.fueltankaccessories.com/#!draw-tubes/c1oi

 

[EmbarkChief]

JIC is a great thread, no Teflon or any thread dope required.

 

[rustystud]

This is a national standard and easily found at any industrial hose supplier.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/JIC_fitting

That might be true on the east coast, but out here on the west coast not so true. I went to the "industrial hose supplier" and they had to order in this style of fitting as it is NOT used out here. It will also cost you over 4 times what a normal fitting costs. Out here 4AN, 6AN, 8AN, fittings are the norm. Not the 5AN fittings.

 

[rustystud]

JIC is a great thread, no Teflon or any thread dope required.

There is no thread tape or dope on this style either, and they can come off an go back on with no problems.

 

[rustystud]

Just as an FYI - I would reconsider using copper tubing for a diesel draw tube. My understanding is that copper and biodiesel are incompatible (not sure of the chemical reaction but apparently there is one over time). Here in Oregon last I heard it was 2% biodiesel legislated to be required in all pump diesel, some places it is up to 15% at the pump according to the sticker on pump.

Rather than making my own I used these guys to purchase a brass draw tube for my auxiliary fuel tank:

http://www.fueltankaccessories.com/#!draw-tubes/c1oi

This is a great site you found ! I'll get one to replace mine. Thanks.

 

[rustystud]

I bought several MEP 002A and 003A gens in "cannibalized" condition. That means that lots of parts were missing. Some gauges were missing. Fuel pumps were missing. Fuel filter assemblies were missing. Fuel lines were missing. Oil filter canisters were missing, etc, etc. In order to get them running I took several non-military short cuts. So far these short cuts have not caused any problems.

I bought an after-market two section diesel tractor fuel filter assembly for $35 and installed it in place of the missing military three-section filter assembly.

Instead of trying to find military type fuel lines and fittings, I did the following. I removed the military 37 degree fittings from everything - from the fuel tank all the way to the IP and everything in between. Once the fittings are removed, the fuel tank, fuel pumps and IP all have standard 1/4 inch pipe threads. I bought the necessary 1/4 inch pipe thread brass hose barb fittings from the local NAPA store and bought 1/4 inch diesel rated flexible fuel line (hose). I cut the fuel line (hose) to the necessary lengths, installed it in the hose barb fittings, and secured it with standard radiator hose clamps.

There may be valid reasons why one should not do this, but so far all gens are running and operating perfectly and everything was purchased from the local auto parts store.

There is nothing wrong using industry standard components, unless your going for that "all original look". I have my generators as actual work units, so they need to be easily repairable.

 

[doghead]

Go to another shop, it IS a NATIONAL/INTERNATIONAL/Worldwide standard.


45 degree is NOT AN, it is SAE.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flare_fitting

 

[Chainbreaker]

This is a great site you found ! I'll get one to replace mine. Thanks.

Then you, or anyone else needing custom fuel hose, fittings, etc. in Pacific North West might like this supplier - Pacific Rubber LLC @ 800-833-8009 for industrial hose, fittings, etc. They provide both local (Eugene, OR) and national custom order service and are real nice to deal with. They made me up an 8' aux fuel hose (just needed it long enough to go to front of trailer where aux tank is mounted) for about $48. They used Gates woven cloth covered fuel line (GAT5C5D 3658-0007) with (2) JIC fittings (GAT5C5-5RFJX 7238-04225) and a 90 deg. adapter (PAR149F-5-6) to mate with internal threaded (.375-18 NPTF) draw tube ordered through above referenced Fuel Tank Accessories LLC. It screwed right in to my aux fuel pump and into my aux fuel tank and was easy-peasy install.

http://www.pacrubber.com/products/hydraulic-products/

 

[EmbarkChief]

On that note if you are on the Gulf Coast and need some hose/fittings PM me. This is what I do for a living. We can and do ship all over the US for that matter.

 

[rustystud]

Doghead, I think you just like to argue. My post was about a good quality, great price, fix for our generators. The hose I used is used on semi-riggs across the nation. It is used in transit buses across the nation. It is cheap and reliable, and the poly hose will not deteriorate like the rubber based hoses will. That is why our buses have them as they are required by federal law to last over 20 years. The hose only costs $O.85 cents pre foot. The fittings are just a few dollars each. Of course if you want to spend hundreds of dollars for your generator fuel lines, that is your right as an American ! I joined the Marines to help preserve this right. God Bless America !!!
That last sentence was humor, for those of you without a sense of one.

 

[rustystud]

View attachment TB-901-AN-and-NPT.pdf

Go to another shop, it IS a NATIONAL/INTERNATIONAL/Worldwide standard.


45 degree is NOT AN, it is SAE.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Flare_fitting

My Bad, I know that the 45degree is a household plumbing style. It's late, I work swing shift and my mind is not always clear at this time of night. What I was saying is that the fittings on our generators is a 5AN fitting. It is still made, but hardly carried by anyone out here. 4, 6 ,8 are the most common.

 

[rustystud]

View attachment cummins generator rules.pdf

Just as an FYI - I would reconsider using copper tubing for a diesel draw tube. My understanding is that copper and biodiesel are incompatible (not sure of the chemical reaction but apparently there is one over time). Here in Oregon last I heard it was 2% biodiesel legislated to be required in all pump diesel, some places it is up to 15% at the pump according to the sticker on pump.

Rather than making my own I used these guys to purchase a brass draw tube for my auxiliary fuel tank:

http://www.fueltankaccessories.com/#!draw-tubes/c1oi

Found this from Cummins Generators about the copper fuel line issue. Go to page 6, it refers to piping.

 

[doghead]

Doghead, I think you just like to argue.

Actually, just the opposite. I cringe when I see a misleading or incorrect statement posted on SS.

As a moderator who cares and takes great effort to keep this site correct(the internet is a tough place to "monitor"), I do not hesitate to point out and correct false info or incorrect assumptions.

For those that don't know any better, it may look like arguing, but it's not. It's educating.

 

[rosco]

All of you are correct! There is nothing wrong with any of the fittings. Its a matter of personal preference. The DOT plastic stuff is great - it resists vibration, but be careful around heat. It melts real easy. I like to stick with whats on the piece of equipment, that I am working on. The JIC fittings are almost universal, as Doghead states & I find it no more expensive, but in the smaller sizes, the 45* flare, often becomes more prevalent, especially in automotive. My preference for hose though on equipment, especially where vibration is present, is to use a hose hose with a smooth rubber sheath on the outside (see Chainbreakers #12 post), rather then the cheaper cloth covered stuff. The cloth covering soon wears and becomes frayed, with fuzzy stuff on it. It also can become oil soaked, dirty, dose not stand up to pressure cleaning well, and is therefore, harder to clean.

I have developed sources that generally serve the heavy equipment industry. Our MV's fall mostly into this category. I find it very frustration to go to Auto Parts stores. Often the counter Folks are not near as knowledgable as the older ones, serving the equipment industry.

 

[reset2]

I bought several MEP 002A and 003A gens in "cannibalized" condition. That means that lots of parts were missing. Some gauges were missing. Fuel pumps were missing. Fuel filter assemblies were missing. Fuel lines were missing. Oil filter canisters were missing, etc, etc. In order to get them running I took several non-military short cuts. So far these short cuts have not caused any problems.

I bought an after-market two section diesel tractor fuel filter assembly for $35 and installed it in place of the missing military three-section filter assembly.

Instead of trying to find military type fuel lines and fittings, I did the following. I removed the military 37 degree fittings from everything - from the fuel tank all the way to the IP and everything in between. Once the fittings are removed, the fuel tank, fuel pumps and IP all have standard 1/4 inch pipe threads. I bought the necessary 1/4 inch pipe thread brass hose barb fittings from the local NAPA store and bought 1/4 inch diesel rated flexible fuel line (hose). I cut the fuel line (hose) to the necessary lengths, installed it in the hose barb fittings, and secured it with standard radiator hose clamps.

There may be valid reasons why one should not do this, but so far all gens are running and operating perfectly and everything was purchased from the local auto parts store.

Just curious, what price does a "cannibalized" condition" Mep go for? This could be a way for me also to get spare parts. It would appear that once the government gets rid of all the gensets parts will be hard to get at a reasonable price.

 

[skinnyR1]

Just as an FYI - I would reconsider using copper tubing for a diesel draw tube. My understanding is that copper and biodiesel are incompatible (not sure of the chemical reaction but apparently there is one over time). Here in Oregon last I heard it was 2% biodiesel legislated to be required in all pump diesel, some places it is up to 15% at the pump according to the sticker on pump.

Rather than making my own I used these guys to purchase a brass draw tube for my auxiliary fuel tank:

http://www.fueltankaccessories.com/#!draw-tubes/c1oi

Running ASTM certified biodiesel through the copper lines in our trucks should be of no consequence. You need moisture and oxygen to cause the corrosion and oxidation that most people refer to regarding biodiesel and copper incompatibility. The sealed areas that are the fuel supply lines should be fine. As long as you don't run them dry and/or pump water through there, the biodiesel will just flush and clean out your system.

Submerge and drop a piece of copper into a sealed glass biodiesel container. Nothing will happen.