Another Fuel Tank Thread

[md250r]

I managed to pick up a relatively "late model" M35A2 from Warner Robins AFB last fall. Truck has run great and really has been on the backburner because of work and a recent move. Since day 1 the lift pump in the tank has not worked and I finally got around to pulling it out. Fuse was blown and large amounts of sludge on the pump and tank. I am addressing the pump by cleaning this one to see if it will still operate and have ordered an ebay replacement just in case. My question surrounds the tank. A local radiator shop here has experience cleaning and re-sealing these tank, but said it could run as much as $400 depending on the condition. Should I pursue finding another tank altogether? I read in the forum about the possibility of an A3 being aluminum and a near direct replacement. Do any of you guys have any suggestions?

Michael

 

[bonedoc]

I had my tank start seeping shortly after I started working on the truck. I bought a good used tank from a surplus supplier, Kublo's surplus and then cleaned and sealed the inside with Por-15 tank sealer and repainted it. Looks like new now, about $200.00 invested total. Here is the before and after.

 

[Scar59]

I have a WRAFB deuce I got this past spring, tank condition is the same, however the pump still works. I'm planning to pull it and drain , clean, and re-seal if necessary my self. Bonedoc has the plan, looks good.

 

[Smokinyoda]

I'm also going through this with a WR deuce right now. Got the tank drained and dropped, but with the baffles see no way good way to clean it. Is there any cleaning solutions that will cut this red crap? Then maybe set it in the back up my pickup for a couple hundred miles to let it soak and agitate real good. I used acetone to clean the filter cans, and it did a great job, but its to costly to clean the tank with.

Has anyone tried a diluted solution of lye to clean a tank?

 

[bonedoc]

I'm also going through this with a WR deuce right now. Got the tank drained and dropped, but with the baffles see no way good way to clean it. Is there any cleaning solutions that will cut this red crap? Then maybe set it in the back up my pickup for a couple hundred miles to let it soak and agitate real good. I used acetone to clean the filter cans, and it did a great job, but its to costly to clean the tank with.

Has anyone tried a diluted solution of lye to clean a tank?

I used the stuff Por-15 sold with their re seal kit. It was called Marine Clean, worked great. Mix with hot water. Slosh it around in the tank, let it sit and soak on all sides for a period of time, empty, rinse, repeat. They tell you to do it twice. I did it 3 for good measure, tank looked like brand new bare metal inside.

 

[Warthog]

Seems like we address this issue every time a new batch of Air Force trucks comes out.

Been there done that.

Just last month;
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?128231-Nasty-Fuel-System

Others

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?83052-Get-rid-of-that-biodiesel-for-new-MV-buys
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?9740-Cleaning-out-a-sludgy-fuel-tank-How
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?112016-Algae-crud-or-what-Best-way-to-clean-it-up-M923a2

 

[md250r]

Thanks guys, I think I'm gonna try the por 15 route.

On a similar note. Do you any of you have a link to disassembly of the pump, more specifically how does the propeller come off?

 

[FloridaAKM]

The WRAFB '87 Deuce I got in May has a problem with the red stuff on the walls of the tank that seems to be dissolving into the new fuel. The bottom of the tank was clean in May, but the new fuel & cleaners are removing the red stuff back into solution!. The water seperator filter was bypassed (it was found that way) when I changed out the first set of filters, so it was replaced back on line @ that time. Now, the truck is missing again @ any RPM over 2K in the higher gear range. Time hasn't permitted me to replace that filter again after 200 miles, but a check of fuel flow with the engine off, is better than it was with dirty plugged filters from the military. The intank pump works well & I have a Parker spare in case the original dies. Time to change out more filters I guess.......

 

[Scar59]

Be careful with he red slime in the tanks, it is microbrial growth. Do not get in an open cut, mouth, or eyes. It will get you very ill. If is not completely killed off it will continue to grow and contaminate the fuel system. Acetone will kill it, clean and use a product like Bio Bore in the next couple of tank fill ups. Wear eye protection when spraying the tank out.

 

[bonedoc]

Wow guys, mine was dirty with 'normal' residue. What causes the red slime? Where does it come from? Anyone know why it seems to be occurring in trucks coming out of that particular base?

 

[Smokinyoda]

After doing some more research most people recommend acids such as vinegar, muratic acid, and citric acid for tank cleaning. I think this is mainly for rust issues, not the "gunk" we are trying to remove. Carb cleaner was also mentioned as a possible solution but they must have changed their formula because it didnt touch what was growing in my filter cans.

Clinto had excellent results with a product called Wild Dog cleaner. I cant find it local, and shipping seems to be cost prohibitive. However after reading more about it I learned that the active ingredient is sodium hydroxide or "lye". This makes sense since lye attacks all things organic, and this red sludge is or was organic. So I gonna give it a shot, its cheap enough just got to figure out how much water to dilute it with. And if anyone else try's it definitely wear your protective gear, at LEAST goggles and rubber gloves. This stuff will seriously burn your skin.

 

[OkieM1008morrison]

My duece tank had 1/2 inch of settled sludge from used motor oil that was unfiltered, and lots of dirt and red stuff also in the bottom, I used purple power cleaner/degreaser followed by a 1/2 gallon of muratic acid, it ate off all of the scales and settled junk. Spent a lot of time moving the cleaner through the tank. But it finally cleared up. Cost me about 50 bucks.

 

[rustystud]

Be careful with he red slime in the tanks, it is microbrial growth. Do not get in an open cut, mouth, or eyes. It will get you very ill. If is not completely killed off it will continue to grow and contaminate the fuel system. Acetone will kill it, clean and use a product like Bio Bore in the next couple of tank fill ups. Wear eye protection when spraying the tank out.

Totally agree !!! Also Bio-Bore is great stuff to keep in your tank at all times ! A little goes a long way.

 

[welldigger]

Careful using acids in these galvanized tanks. Acids can eat the coating right off the metal.

 

[md250r]

Is there a TM on dissembling the in-tank pump. It spins freely but all the screens are blocked badly. I need to get the impeller off so I can clear the gunk from the screens.

 

[Smokinyoda]

Careful using acids in these galvanized tanks. Acids can eat the coating right off the metal.

Good point. Was going to use lye in mine this weekend, but guess I need to keep looking. Even though its not an acid it is a very strong base and would probably damage the zinc coating.

 

[FloridaAKM]

I checked my tank yesterday & vacuumed the bottom of the tank with a siphon hose & a 5 gallon bucket. The red stuff is all gone & the only thing left on the clean bottom is a small amount of rust chunks that wouldn't fill the bottom of a small drinking cup & no water. That said, the engine is starting to miss @ speeds over 45 mph when the truck is running @ a cracked throttle on a flat road. It pulls well & runs strong thru all the gears untill you feather the throttle on a running condition. All filters were changed 150 miles ago, but I have reason to believe that the initial water filter is starting to clog up due to suspended stuff dissolving off the tank walls. When the filters were changed, the water seperator filter was by passed & now I think I see why. Comments...

 

[welldigger]

Have you tried draining your primary filter once in a while? Might help.

 

[rustystud]

Careful using acids in these galvanized tanks. Acids can eat the coating right off the metal.

No diesel engine has a galvanized tank as the diesel will react with the zinc. That's why most all over the road trucks use aluminium tanks. Our busses use stainless steel.

 

[Smokinyoda]

No diesel engine has a galvanized tank as the diesel will react with the zinc. That's why most all over the road trucks use aluminium tanks. Our busses use stainless steel.

So your saying that the fuel tank in my 87 M35A2c is not galvanized? Not mine personally but as standard work they don't galvanize these late model diesel tanks?


Looks like your right. Evidently the diesel dissolves the zinc coating over time. Let the Lye treatment begin!

This is the goop I am trying to deal with. Its everywhere, and I cant reach 2/3 of the tank to scoop it out due to the baffles.