M1009, Cranks, Wait light Works, No start, No power to glow plugs

[carter262]

Got ready to run some errands this morning and bam no start. I have noticed recently that it was getting harder to start. Today it is about 70 degrees and rainy. Not cold by any means.

Symptoms:
Wait light works, on approx 6 seconds
Turns over
white smoke

Checked:
Power at light blue wire at glow plug card: 12 odd volts
Large red wire top of the solenoid on fire wall: 12 odd volts (resistor appears to have been by pasted prior to my purchasing it).
Large orange wire bottom of the solenoid on fire wall: no power with key in the off or on position.
Green glow plug power wire: no power when the wait light is on.

I changed out solenoid on fire wall: same results
Check all fuses: all good
Traced wires: no obvious problems

So now what? Once my ride gets here I am going to get another solenoid, the one I tried was a used one I had sitting around.

My questions are:
How do I tell if the card is bad? Would the card cause these problems?
What else could it be? What am I missing?

Thanks

 

[Warthog]

There is a step-by-step procedure to test the controller card. It is in the TM 9-2320-289-20 manual, page 2-62, section 2-15

The small pink wire at the relay is hot when ever the key is on. The controller card controls the ground (light blue wire) when it senses the plugs need to be on. You can manually ground the light blue wire to see if your plugs are working and the truck will start.

 

[carter262]

Ok. Thanks Warthog,

Ok, I checked it.
Cut key on, 12.3v on red with (top of solenoid), 11.3 small pink wire.
Hooked meter to green wire going to glow plug, then touched jumper wire to light blue wire / post on solenoid and grounded it. The solenoid clicked and the green wire read around 12v.

So I assume this means that the card is bad. Am I correct on thinking that? I will read through the section of the manual in a bit. I have a printed one and have been reading and testing all morning, I just missed that section.

I know someone one here supplies them I will just have to figure out who. Until then I will put ina a push button to get me by but I prefer having it set back up to the original design.

 

[Warthog]

Antennaclimber is making new ones.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?102176-CUCV-Glow-Plug-Cards

Your relay seems to be okay, The controller card may be bad or the contacts may just be dirty. Here is a thread that explains the system

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?62477-GP-Module-Theory-of-Operation

Many members add the manual push button as a backup so they can have GP is an issue arises. You will also want to check each of your glow plugs.

 

[doghead]

Or a bad temp sensor.

 

[CW3Topher]

If you do need a new card, I highly recommend Antennaclimber. I got one from him for my 1008, great product.

 

[carter262]

I got a push button and installed it. One wire from push button switch to post with small light blue wire on the solenoid on the fire wall. One wire from the push button switch to a bolt under the dash on the fire wall to provide a ground when I push in on the button.

Bam, it fired right up.

I will see if I can find and then replace the temperature sensor. I will clean the contacts on the card too. They looked good but it couldn't hurt. If those are not the issue then I'll check with Antennaclimber.

CW3Thopher do recall what they cost?

Guys thanks for all the help trouble shooting. I have tried to be a good member and do my own leg work by reading prior to posting but it helps to be able to get other opinions.

Thank you guys are the best.

 

[Warthog]

The glow plug tempature switch is located on the rear of the drivers side cylinder head. It screws into a block off plate of a water outlet.



Many times the switch or the connector plug become brittle and break or become very corroded.

The factory switch has two wires going into a round plug. BWD WT5133

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/WT5133.oap?ck=Search_wt5133_-1_234&keyword=wt5133

The switch has been updated to a new flat style plug BWD WT3000.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/WT3000.oap?ck=Search_wt3000_-1_234&keyword=wt3000

You can get a new pigtail for this style switch. BWD TSC200
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/BWD0/PT191.oap?ck=Search_tsc200_-1_234&keyword=tsc200

If you remove the switch, sometimes the bushing also needs to be replaced. It is a 0.500-14 x 0.375-18 NPT bushing

 

[Skinny]

Wow, this is a nice change of pace on the forum.

 

[carter262]

Thanks that is some good information that I know I appreciate and bet others do too.

I will probably check it out over the weekend. Good news though, this morning pushed in my new little button for around 10 seconds and fire first time. While it is not the original set up it is working!!!

Thanks again guys you are the best.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

If those are not the issue then I'll check with Antennaclimber.

CW3Thopher do recall what they cost?

IIRC they are 85 bucks, but the best way to find out is to PM AntennaClimber.

 

[Warthog]

IIRC they are 85 bucks, but the best way to find out is to PM AntennaClimber.

Or check his Classified ad that I posted earlier.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?102176-CUCV-Glow-Plug-Cards

Yes they are $85 including shipping in CONUS

 

[carter262]

Thanks again. I looked at them and they are nice. Price seems good too. I will be ordering one soon.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Or check his Classified ad that I posted earlier.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?102176-CUCV-Glow-Plug-Cards

Yes they are $85 including shipping in CONUS

No, no, no. That would be WAAY too easy!

 

[12Gage]

There is a step-by-step procedure to test the controller card. It is in the TM 9-2320-289-20 manual, page 2-62, section 2-15

The small pink wire at the relay is hot when ever the key is on. The controller card controls the ground (light blue wire) when it senses the plugs need to be on. You can manually ground the light blue wire to see if your plugs are working and the truck will start.

View attachment 518987

Having problems with mine as of right now, put a new st85 one from Napa, orange has no power, blue and pink both have about 11 volts, and glow plugs have nothing as well... any help? By the way, I don’t know how to find the “TM’s”

 

[sneekyeye]

....I don’t know how to find the “TM’s”

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-cucv.77609/ Those are the TM, wiring diagrams are in the 289-34. parts numbers are in the ones with suffix of "p"

Pink is the 12v supply wire from the glow plug card to the relay. The glow card grounds the blue wire when it is supposed to be on. If it were activating correctly, you would have 12v on pink and, if the relay is currently closed, ground on blue. As long as you have power supplied at the red wire, it should move to all the oranges as your relay closes. If your glow plug controller is not activating your relay, then you will have 12v on both blue and pink. In addition, the wait light is fed constant 12v by the fuse panel and only turns on when grounded by the glow plug controller on the third pin down on diagram.
You could have one or multiple failures. Also depends on how your wiring is been messed with on your particular truck.

 

[12Gage]

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/tms-for-the-cucv.77609/ Those are the TM, wiring diagrams are in the 289-34. parts numbers are in the ones with suffix of "p"

Pink is the 12v supply wire from the glow plug card to the relay. The glow card grounds the blue wire when it is supposed to be on. If it were activating correctly, you would have 12v on pink and, if the relay is currently closed, ground on blue. As long as you have power supplied at the red wire, it should move to all the oranges as your relay closes. If your glow plug controller is not activating your relay, then you will have 12v on both blue and pink. In addition, the wait light is fed constant 12v by the fuse panel and only turns on when grounded by the glow plug controller on the third pin down on diagram.
You could have one or multiple failures. Also depends on how your wiring is been messed with on your particular truck.

Thanks for the info, quick question, could I tap or cut that blue wire and just run a switch or push button to send ground to the solenoid or would that be a bad idea?

 

[sneekyeye]

Thanks for the info, quick question, could I tap or cut that blue wire and just run a switch or push button to send ground to the solenoid or would that be a bad idea?

You could, but if you are going to do that, at least get a double pole, single throw switch so you can also wire the wait light into your circuit and have it come on when your glow plugs do.
New glow plug cards are available if you want to fix it.