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I check my fuel tanks with a 3/16" ( I think it is 3/16") painted steel rod.
On the A2's you have to go at a little bit of an angle.
On the A2's you have to go at a little bit of an angle.
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939 fuel tank capacity
- Thread starter mikey
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- 2,052
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- Milford / Michigan
My fuel gauge works like a dream. Dont get me wrong, I still carry a full Jerry can just in case. Its always better looking at fuel than looking for it.
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plode
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- South Jersey
Well I put a chain wrench on it, pulled as hard as I could. Won't budge. I tried giving it a little impact with a rubber mallet...won't budge. Put some heat around the filler neck...still won't budge. Used a cheater pipe on the chain wrench too.
My fuel gauge doesn't work, so it would be nice to physically measure the tank to see how much I've got, but this thing doesn't want to unscrew.
My fuel gauge doesn't work, so it would be nice to physically measure the tank to see how much I've got, but this thing doesn't want to unscrew.
ke5eua
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You should be able to see where the strainer and the filler neck meet.
Definitely don't want you to break anything.
plode
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Yeah, I'm not even exactly sure how/where the two come apart. Anyone have pictures to make this a little easier to figure out?
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ank-capacity&p=1610676&viewfull=1#post1610676
Item #13 is the strainer and item #12 are gaskets.
Item #13 is the strainer and item #12 are gaskets.
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Here is where mine were connected. The strainer unscrews, and you can see the threads where the cap unscrews from the strainer.
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Are you looking at the pics posted on this thread? Post # 8
Mikey you can get real close if you just do some simple math
and then go to most any online conversion website that does volume .
Fist, go out and measure the LENGTH and WIDTH and HEIGHT of the tank.
Multiply the L x W = Y
Then multiply Y x H = Z
Z = your total (approx.) cubic inches. Take Z and CLICK HERE
Once there, select CUBIC INCHES on the left and GALLONS US LIQUID on the right.
Fill in the blank and hit calculate.
Like I said, real close less radius corners and other displacements.
and then go to most any online conversion website that does volume .
Fist, go out and measure the LENGTH and WIDTH and HEIGHT of the tank.
Multiply the L x W = Y
Then multiply Y x H = Z
Z = your total (approx.) cubic inches. Take Z and CLICK HERE
Once there, select CUBIC INCHES on the left and GALLONS US LIQUID on the right.
Fill in the blank and hit calculate.
Like I said, real close less radius corners and other displacements.
- 12,195
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When I pick up a truck, I stick the tank with a piece painted wire, NEVER I repeat NEVER trust a military fuel gauge, they may be dead true one second and lie like a lawyer the next second.. Figure out roughly the mileage then subtract 25% when driving, that is your fill up point, ALWAYS carry a marked fuel dip stick.
I use good ole fashioned "bailin wahr". It is useful for many things at the same time. Of course the problem is finding old fashioned bales that use wire since most have nylon cord nowadays. (not really...I usually carry a roll of wire that I bought).
plode
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Thanks. I was definitely trying to take off the right part. It's not reverse thread, is it?
plode
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How do I seal it back up after drilling holes?
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Are you leaving room for fuel expansion?
Your fuel tank should have a tag welded on it that says it's capacity
The point was made by DH and not me but I would have asked the same question. The strainers were also put in there so with the nozzle filling the tank cuts off at the correct fill level - which should be 80% of its rated volume - thus leaving room for expansion.
I have the identical problem with commercial vehicles and drivers - first always trusting the gauge when its policy to LOOK IN THE TANK. If they run out of fuel by trusting the gauge - driver pays the breakdown costs to get him going again PLUS the cost of the fuel.
We have all done this and thus the second point - you "should" never fill to the neck of the tank - but I do it anyhow so do not listen to me its only a point.
Our On Site Fueling service never fills to the top of the neck.
You will run out of fuel before the gauge and fuel level get low enough because the pick up tube does not sit at the bottom of the tank - there is always some left (not like having ice cream around with kids - they lick the bottom of the bucket to get it all).
Your fuel tank should have a tag welded on it that says it's capacity
The point was made by DH and not me but I would have asked the same question. The strainers were also put in there so with the nozzle filling the tank cuts off at the correct fill level - which should be 80% of its rated volume - thus leaving room for expansion.
I have the identical problem with commercial vehicles and drivers - first always trusting the gauge when its policy to LOOK IN THE TANK. If they run out of fuel by trusting the gauge - driver pays the breakdown costs to get him going again PLUS the cost of the fuel.
We have all done this and thus the second point - you "should" never fill to the neck of the tank - but I do it anyhow so do not listen to me its only a point.
Our On Site Fueling service never fills to the top of the neck.
You will run out of fuel before the gauge and fuel level get low enough because the pick up tube does not sit at the bottom of the tank - there is always some left (not like having ice cream around with kids - they lick the bottom of the bucket to get it all).
74M35A2
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f o !!!
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ke5eua
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When driving on trips I fill it to the top on my 818. If I know it's going to sit before I fill I won't.
I know about expansion, but do we forget our tanks have vents for this reason. They knew a soldier wasn't going to stop at the strainer, nope, he was going to over fill it.