m1070 battery master switch

[73m819]

Just a note to all you m1070 owners, even with the switch turned off there still is a current draw, the -10 for these trucks states that due to the current drew, the battery WILL drain down on trucks that are not used regularly, on some of the m1070s, a master power cut off for both 12v and 24v has been installed to address the current drew issue, With that being said,I would install a battery cutoff switch in the ground on the HETs that do not have the cutoff to prevent a low battery/starting issue with trucks that do not see a lot of use,

 

[tim292stro]

Is there an equalizer on the batteries or is it just the engine computer (DDEC)? Might be a good idea to hook up a large Solargizer if it's going to sit for any length of time (>1-week).

 

[73m819]

Is there an equalizer on the batteries or is it just the engine computer (DDEC)? Might be a good idea to hook up a large Solargizer if it's going to sit for any length of time (>1-week).

No equalizer, according to the -10, the drain is more then the DDEC, I came across about 1/2 dozen caution/note about the battery drain issue so I would guess that it is something to take note of and deal with by installing a battery master switch..

 

[Hummermark]

Hi measured the current drain on my m1070 with master switch off (pulled out) I have no drain on the 12volt or 24volt side (took both positive terminals off the 12 and 24v side when measuring) but with master switch on (pushed in) on the 12volt side have a fluctuating draw of 0.04 to 0.11 with nothing else on.the meter I am using only goes to 2 decimal places so if current draw is less it would not show on my meter.the older non re build m1070 have a tachograph speedo in them which has a clock in them this still keeps time even when master switch is off so over a long time would flatten bats.out of intrest the master switch does not isolate the wiring from the battery's to starter motor so this is live all the time!

 

[73m819]

Hi measured the current drain on my m1070 with master switch off (pulled out) I have no drain on the 12volt or 24volt side (took both positive terminals off the 12 and 24v side when measuring) but with master switch on (pushed in) on the 12volt side have a fluctuating draw of 0.04 to 0.11 with nothing else on.the meter I am using only goes to 2 decimal places so if current draw is less it would not show on my meter.the older non re build m1070 have a tachograph speedo in them which has a clock in them this still keeps time even when master switch is off so over a long time would flatten bats.out of intrest the master switch does not isolate the wiring from the battery's to starter motor so this is live all the time!

These are NOT the older non rebuilt HETS, it is the type A dash, type B dash has the standard two gauges (speedo and tac.), It does not matter which type of dash, some HETs have the battery cutoff switch to address the current drain. I have seen both rebuild and non-rebuild with the switch and without.

 

[Hummermark]

My bad it is that I have not seen a rebuilt m1070 with type a dash ie taco

 

[tim292stro]

I believe the clock in the tach has a battery inside. Also, you don't really want a disconnect switch on the starter - it would be HUGE to support the peak draw of a cold/hard start (>1000Amps).

A sub-1Amp draw while off sounds like computers of various variety (DDCE [engine], ATEC [transmission], CTIS...) If you have a pushbutton MLS it draws power any time the battery input is powered to run backlighting - probably one of the reasons for unattended fires with those switches (I've opened a good one up and I'm not pleased with what I saw).

 

[73m819]

My bad it is that I have not seen a rebuilt m1070 with type a dash ie taco

I have one of each rebuilds in the herd at this time out front.

 

[rosco]

Different, but similar: I just ran across this in my Deuce. Even when I had a cutoff switch in the 24V ground, I still had several amps of 12 V in the system. It drove me nuts, as I prefer to work with big hammers (I spent days on it)! It is that the 12 V was back feeding through the ground on the 12V appliance (Back Alarm or electric trailer brake switch). I had to put a cutoff in the power supply of 12V. It took me a while to digest what the meter (Fluky) was telling me. This is my simple way to fix it. It would take a smart Guy to tell me how to do it correctly.