JasonS
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Check the TM but I don't believe that any one regulator is for the turbo only. I think that one on the side is for the piston squirters and one is for main oil galley.
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Oil filter cans that retain oil?
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Jeepsinker
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Yeah it is hard to tell on my phone as well. I'll have to look at it on my computer.
rustystud
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View attachment Scan0017.pdf
There is one thing though, I see that the maximum oil pressure can be 65 PSI . Therefore if you system is not putting out this kind of pressure, it would be safe to bump-up your pressure regulator.
Your right Jason. After looking closely at the diagram I see that one regulator is for main galley pressure and the other is for the piston cooling nozzles.
There is one thing though, I see that the maximum oil pressure can be 65 PSI . Therefore if you system is not putting out this kind of pressure, it would be safe to bump-up your pressure regulator.
Jeepsinker
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I'm betting that 65 psi number is to keep from blowing filter canister gaskets and maybe the oil cooler o-rings. My truck gets up to 60 psi hot running down the road, but only 30 at hot idle. I suppose higher pressures could blow the injector pump oil supply line too, but I think they are tougher than that.
rustystud
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Actually your getting full pump pressure at the oil cooler and oil filters ( around 100 PSI to 120 PSI ). The pressure doesn't drop until after the pressure regulator on the other side of the engine.
Jeepsinker
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Yeah that's right. We just discussed that too... So what's the deal then? Going over 65 psi isn't going to blow out a cam bearing or something. It might damage an oil squirter, but I doubt that too.
JasonS
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The 40 psi relief valve (40 psi based on TM9-2815-204-35) means that there is an oil leak that opens at a galley pressure above 40 psi. You would need to have 60 to 80 psi pressure drop across the filters/ cooler to get 100 to 120 psi at the pump. The filter/ cooler have differential relief valves that open at a combined 30 psi. I can only see this happening if the flow capability of the flow capability of the 40psi relief valve was exceeded with very cold viscous oil. Is the TM in error stating 40 psi? The same TM specifies normal oil pressure as 50-60 psi.
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Jeepsinker
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So in order to not make it a waste of time I will need to shim all of these bypass valves along with the regulator. Otherwise I'll see no difference.
gimpyrobb
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You have already wasted too much time. Just do it mang.
Jeepsinker
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I would if my woman hadn't brought the flu home from work.
gimpyrobb
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Jeepsinker
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Well its better than her bringing crabs home from work...
welldigger
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From the buffet or bathroom?
Jeepsinker
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The latter. Buffet crabs are good.
gimpyrobb
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Or her boss. I'm just sayin...
wsucougarx
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Two out of my three deuces retain oil in the cans
Jeepsinker
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Just so we are clear this is just joking. I have a good girl ( for once in my life).
welldigger
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Don't let him lie to you. She beats him. I saw it.
Once she gets over the flu you only have 7 or 8 regulators to find and fiddle with. Chop chop.
Jeepsinker
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I busted my eye with a ratchet I swear!
rustystud
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View attachment Scan0022.pdfView attachment Scan0023.pdf
One of the draw backs of our oil system is that all the oil does "not" get filtered before going to the main galley unlike modern engines. Almost all engines from the 1950's back used this type of oil filtration system. If you plugged the oil filter bypass valve then you would get full oil filtration, but the old style paper filter elements can not take that kind of pressure, but since I have spin-on filters maybe they can handle over 100 PSI pressure ? Maybe I'll call "WIX" filters and find out. I would still keep the oil cooler bypass though.
The TM is correct when it says the relief valve is set to "start to open" at 40 PSI . If you study the diagram closely you will see the oil comes from the pump at over 100 PSI, then goes to the oil filters where the bypass valve allows pressure over 15 PSI to "Bypass" the filters thus keeping the filters from blowing up. This bypass pressure is still over 100 PSI. Then it goes to the oil cooler where again it bypasses at 15 PSI keeping the oil cooler from blowing up. This bypassed pressure is still over 100 PSI. Then it goes to the two pressure regulators, one which controls piston cooling and the other which controls main galley pressure. The piston cooling regulator ONLY allows 15 PSI to reach the nozzles. It does not dump pressure. The Main oil pressure regulator which controls main galley pressure lowers the pressure to 40 PSI "Dumping" the rest of the pressure to the oil pan. This is the regulator which can be bumped up to control the main galley pressure. The diagram shows what I have described. The second diagram show where the pressure tap is. Tomorrow I will take some pictures of my mechanical pressure gauge hocked up to this port, and hopefully you will see what I have been trying to explain all along.
One of the draw backs of our oil system is that all the oil does "not" get filtered before going to the main galley unlike modern engines. Almost all engines from the 1950's back used this type of oil filtration system. If you plugged the oil filter bypass valve then you would get full oil filtration, but the old style paper filter elements can not take that kind of pressure, but since I have spin-on filters maybe they can handle over 100 PSI pressure ? Maybe I'll call "WIX" filters and find out. I would still keep the oil cooler bypass though.
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