Issues with my New Truck.

[Rustyshackelford]

If the solenoid is bad to the GP system they will not work either if you need to buy one you can use the same one used for snow plows its much cheaper.

SO i put my voltmeter on the solenoid and there is juice to the top terminal. When I turn the key, there is NO juice to the bottom terminal. Does this indicate dead solenoid?

 

[eme411]

everything is in the TM's , read them!

 

[CUCVLOVER]

everything is in the TM's , read them!

Easy dude. You where a newbie once to. Lol

 

[Warthog]

Easy yourself young guy. Think before you hit the enter key. Reading the TMs for a specific issue and using the troubleshooting section is one of the best ways to learn your truck. This applies to almost all MVs that have a TM available.

 

[Warthog]

SO i put my voltmeter on the solenoid and there is juice to the top terminal. When I turn the key, there is NO juice to the bottom terminal. Does this indicate dead solenoid?

You need to troubleshoot your glow plug system. There is a step-by-step procedure in the TM 9-2320-289-20 tech manual, chapter 2, table 2-4 Electrical Troubleshooting, paragraph 15, page 2-62.

15 - Glow Plug Module Inoperative

The only way to determine if your glow plug module is operating properly is
through testing. The glow plug module should not be replaced until the
following tests are performed.

It walks you through checking the wiring for the GP system.

Your relay may be just fine. You need to check the system before you start throwing parts at it.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

You need to troubleshoot your glow plug system. There is a step-by-step procedure in the TM 9-2320-289-20 tech manual, chapter 2, table 2-4 Electrical Troubleshooting, paragrapth 42, page 2-74.

It walks you through checking the wiring for the GP system.

Your relay may be just fine. You need to check the system before you start throwing parts at it.

I think I found that but I think that is to test the starter solenoid. Maybe Im reading it wrong. I'll keep looking.

 

[Warthog]

I put the wrong section in. I corrected it. Paragraph 15 page 2-62

Trying to multitask

 

[ranchhopper]

SO i put my voltmeter on the solenoid and there is juice to the top terminal. When I turn the key, there is NO juice to the bottom terminal. Does this indicate dead solenoid?

Yes but I use a test light turn the key and if you have power at both large terminals your solenoid is working it will still give you that clunk when energized even if its faulty so you cannot go by sound.

 

[Skinny]

You should have 12v at the outgoing terminal and at the GP connector when you turn the key on and hear the thud. If no thud, more than likely the solenoid is bad or you have other issues with the controller. If you hear a thud and no 12v outgoing, the solenoid is bad.

Just an FYI, the solenoid is pretty cheap to replace if you need to but search on which one you need. I believe it is a constant duty isolated ground solenoid. Someone can confirm the number or you can search it, pretty common problem. Don't overlook the control system.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Well when I turn the key there is no thud, no wait light, and no voltage on the bottom solenoid terminal. There is voltage to the top terminal and one of the smaller front terminals.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

So ground the other small terminal and see what happens. It's all spelled out in the TM.

If you have not done so yet, see the "helpful threads" sticky and look for the video on GP theory.

The replacement relay is NAPA ST-85, but it's too soon to buy one.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Glow-Plug-Relay/_/R-ECHST85_0174810055

 

[fuzzytoaster]

MarcusOReallyus is correct on the napa solenoid replacement. If your local NAPA wants an arm and a leg (say $58 + tax) for said solenoid there is a cheaper alternative on fleabay item# 250916002231. Having just sorted out all the issues with my GP system in my 1028 I can attest the solenoid was the main issue with the plugs not working..that being said I'm glad it didn't work initially as I found numerous smaller issues as I continued to diagnose. New plugs were a must, new solenoid, wire replacements, and card check. Works like a charm now.

 

[cucvrus]

I think that we should have the CUCV Electric trouble shooting manual listed in the CUCV helpful hints. I have it and it has saved me hours of diagnostic time. It also has more clarity in the test and diagnostic procedures. The small manual I am referring to is TM 9-2001-224-24 CUCV Glow plug system fault isolation and diagnosis. Published Feb 2011. As stated the TM's are a source of great help. But they sometimes assume a level of support and expertise that many owners do not posses. I think that is a pretty fair analogy of this situation. I have found CUCV electric to be a reliable source for parts and information in the past. I hear they are not doing business any more but the book is still a very reliable source of information and I have left several friends and acquaintances use the book and it did resolve the issues they were having. Of course it does say NO NO to many of the modifications that are expressed here. I just wanted to put that out there as my spin on things and an opinion on helping you as a new guy resolve your issue and start enjoying your CUCV and not be cussing it and taking flack for your lack of knowledge. Maybe the manual is listed on this site. IDK.

 

[Skinny]

Just ground the terminal that goes back to the card, if it thuds you have a defective controller or a further issue with the control wiring. If it does not thud, replace solenoid and test again.

Note that in a pinch where you aren't getting glow, this is what you would do in order to start your truck. Manually activate the GP's for a bit, then crank. Doesn't hurt to know the back up Plan B strategy in case the controller bites the dust.

 

[Warthog]

CUCVRUS, the manual you are talking about is not a military manual. It was written by a fellow SS member. While I didn't write it, John and I had long discussions on what should be in it.

John has had some health issues and is no longer participating on the site and closed down his website. The manual is copywrited and can not be posted here or anywhere without his permission.

 

[cucvrus]

Well since you are close friends and he is a member on the site. I think he would like other members to have access to the valuable diagnostic information that he published in that small booklet. It is not like we would be selling it. I could probably donate one of the booklets to my local community library and it would be public knowledge. I paid for the booklets that I bought from his site. I think others should be able to have it and have the information. I don't see any secrets in the booklet. just good sound information and a check by check system that is not outlined clearly in the military TM's. Could you ask him if he minds since it sounds like an out of publication manual at this point? Yes or no is all he could say. Please. I know it would help others. Or can you still buy the booklet?

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Can't hurt to ask, but my guess is he still wants to be paid for his effort (and he should be), but he's not able to handle running the business end of it right now.

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Okey dokey so I broke out the old voltmeter and ohm meter and went to work on the diagnosis according to the manual. It looks like my glow plug circuit board is fried. Visual inspection confirms (pic attached). What is the best source for quality/economical circuit boards?

 

[Rustyshackelford]

Now, while is was under the hood, I found this little jewel hiding behind the brake master calendar. Can anybody tell me what this blue wire with the red stripe are supposed to be connected to? I looked over the wiring diagrams and I must be missing it because I can't find it. It comes through the firewall from the wire looms under the steering wheel.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

http://www.hillbillywizard.com/

They should have a glow plug card. They usually do, also they know their stuff so they can answer any questions.