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715 moves to south carolina

dougimes

Member
206
2
18
Location
greenville, sc
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Gene Imes, (my dad) sent his M715 down from Wisconsin for me to take care of . He has been using it as a farm truck, feeding animals etc. He recently painted it and decommissioned it, added bows and seats etc.

Questions for the group.

what should I absolutely do before I run it much.

change the oil, check compression, and look at the valves is what I have in mind. What else should I look at.


2nd question. I hear valve noise, how much is normal? I am comparing to my Fhead Jeep.

3rd, I hear a putt putt noise (maybe closer to tap tap) when the engine is under load, going up hill for instance . engine sounds great not under load, (35mph on flat). what am I hearing?

the 4 picture down shows the truck in service at the farm. More pictures to follow......

http://wartimetrucks.com/motor_pool_and_noteworthy.
 

bcowanwheels

Member
490
2
18
Location
KINGSPORT, TN.
1st thing is replace the oil line from p/s of engine block to rear of head. guarantee is bad, check and change all fluids especitaaly the t-case. adjust brakes up ( if your going to road drive it switch master cyl to split m/c for safety reasons), grease all zerk fittings.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
An heirloom, passed from Father to Son. Looks to be in pretty good shape. That is special. Wishing best of health to your Dad.

A legacy; and a bit early to consider of course, but any thoughts yet to keeping it "rolling" in the family?
 

dougimes

Member
206
2
18
Location
greenville, sc
Hey John (poof). Here is one of my favorite shots from farm days. I give my dad grief missing the driveway whenever I can. (John did the paint and markings last summer).

Do you have photos of your work on the vehicle last summer? I am putting together the MV show signage. History the vehicle, Facts about the 715, use etc. I'd like some picture of your work.

I need to get some farming pictures from Dad as well.







snafu.jpg005.jpg
 

dougimes

Member
206
2
18
Location
greenville, sc
Update-

Checked transfer and 4 speed, levels good
Checked propeller shafts and ujoints, lubed
Checked oil , level good and looked clean, but something not quite right. Drained it-

It was the consistency of the stuff you drain off from a can of kidney beans. It was hard to tell, but I think its oil than has been thinned with Gas. A lot of gas. I would guess 1 part gas, 2 parts oil.

How does that much gas get in the oil? If it was gas. It wasn't water, the oil would have foamed brown.

any ideas?
 

jeepsguy

New member
56
2
0
Location
Mechanicsville, VA
Sometimes in a pressurized fuel system, the pressure will push fuel thru the carb in to the manifold then into cylinders and into the crankcase. I bought an M38A1 that had been sitting and it had a lot of gas in the oil. A bad fuel pump can also dump gas into the oil. This condition can usually be detected by observing the very low oil pressure. The engine may run surprisingly well on the oil/gas mixture until a bearing fails. Your mileage may vary.
 

bchauvette

New member
810
12
0
Location
Easley SC USA, 29640
Update-

Checked transfer and 4 speed, levels good
Checked propeller shafts and ujoints, lubed
Checked oil , level good and looked clean, but something not quite right. Drained it-

It was the consistency of the stuff you drain off from a can of kidney beans. It was hard to tell, but I think its oil than has been thinned with Gas. A lot of gas. I would guess 1 part gas, 2 parts oil.

How does that much gas get in the oil? If it was gas. It wasn't water, the oil would have foamed brown.

any ideas?
A couple of oil fll-run-drain should do the trick. Back in the day a ruptured mechanical fuel pump diaphram would introduce fuel into the oil. Also a stuck carburetor float. There are numerous documented crankcase explosions due to fuel in the oil!
 

dougimes

Member
206
2
18
Location
greenville, sc
beautiful day to work on trucks . Sunny and 60.

Took the fuel pump off and checked the integrity of the diaphragm, Its not leaking, and definitely not leaking gas into the oil, so at this point, I have good explanation.

It will happen again I suppose, I'll be watching for it . While valve cover off, ran the engine and checked valve and exhaust clearances, they were pretty close. I also looked at oil flow while it was running- looked real good, so the back oil line is fine.

The put-put noise is coming from a failed exhaust manifold gasket. Hit the bolts with some PB plaster for taking them off later.

looks like its time for a few short road trips.

photo (2).jpg
 

maddawg308

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,865
762
113
Location
Appomattox, VA
Whats everyones favorite source for parts? I need an exhaust manifold gasket.
Try AB Linn on eBay, I think his user ID is ablinninc. He had piles of -715 stuff for years, not sure what his stock is like now, last -715 stuff I ordered from him was in 2007 or so.

-715 parts are where you find them. There never really was a "go-to place" for parts for this series, they weren't in inventory all that long and they quickly were known for being underpowered and maintenance-intensive, so even though they were accepted in 1967, by 1980 most of them were gone out of military use. There are WAY more surplus parts sources for the M37 series, which preceeded it, same for aftermarket stuff - the aftermarket never really signed all in for the -715s, they were the red-headed-stepchild of the MV world. But they do hold a special place in the hearts of those who like it's tactical ugly looks. :)
 

dougimes

Member
206
2
18
Location
greenville, sc
Ill trust you bcowanwheels, that line looks like a bugger to get off. Any tips, there is only about an inch between the top fitting and the fire wall. I cant even touch it.
 

bcowanwheels

Member
490
2
18
Location
KINGSPORT, TN.
Heres the way i remove it.
1. Take the best wire cutters you have and cut the line next to the t-fitting on side of engine block ( it will crumble,you,ll see)
2. Cut it again as far to the rear of the engine as close to the head fitting as possible
3. Then take open end wrench (cant remember if it 7/16 or 1/2") and unscrew fitting out of head ( i lay a 2x12 on top od fender well and over to valve cover so i can lay on it to work )
4. Next the block fitting ! Be very careful here as it will break off where it goes in side of engine block ! I use a large cresent wrench on the "t" ans use a open end or preferably line wrench on line fitting. Be careful not to break fitting going in block cant stress this enough. Then you can make up new line from brake line tubing and fittings.
 
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