Rustyshackelford
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Those tuff countries are pretty darn expensive too. Can anyone with rough country springs chime in on the actual stiffness? How's the articulation?
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Best Lift Kit for m1009?
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86m1028
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I have run superlift, sky jacker & rough country on blazers & trucks.
I have also run custom built national springs with good results.
Keep in mind the cheaper you go the less quality you get (for the most part).
Shop around, do your homework & pick which is best for you.
There is a lot of info on this site about this subject.
BTW 52's up frt (rear 1/2 springs) are way to flexy for on road use.
Unless you run some kind of custom swaybar on the street.
I have also run custom built national springs with good results.
Keep in mind the cheaper you go the less quality you get (for the most part).
Shop around, do your homework & pick which is best for you.
There is a lot of info on this site about this subject.
BTW 52's up frt (rear 1/2 springs) are way to flexy for on road use.
Unless you run some kind of custom swaybar on the street.
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Csm Davis
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I am probably going to be doing a couple different setups my off-roading truck will have a M1009 with a B52 up front and a shackle flip in the rear. My on road truck will be M1028 and M1009 with a 4 " spring pack with the proper rate to handle the weight of whatever bumper and winch combination I come up with on front and shackle flips on rear of the 1009 and airbags and or small block to level out the 1028.
Ilikemtb999
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Made in the USA, even their shocks.
JoshHefnerX
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2 trucks on TC-ez's up front and shackle flip out back 4". Rides as good as stock. Shackle flip can be done w/ welder and some cutting tools if you're crafty - make sure you're gusseting well though.
Josh
Josh
richingalveston
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I have 4" TC up front and they ride really good.
richingalveston
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Mine are TC HD springs not EZ. I like the ride not stiff at all.
Ilikemtb999
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I have the hd's up front as well and they ride good. I've got a steel line winch tucked up in my frame rails (weighs nearly 100lbs with plate and longer cables for the relay box).
Csm Davis
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There is a spring rate chart you can Google I think it is on CK5.
topgun217
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@ richingalveston: Do you have wheel spacers on the rear wheels? Mys son is wanting our M1009 rear wheels to match the front as far as width. I've been reading the forums trying to figure out what to do. Also in reading this thread I've gotten ideas about doing the 2-3" lift. I like the idea of getting springs and the air bags, I guess I'm looking for the easiest/cheapest way to get both done.
richingalveston
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I do not have rear wheel spacers. I am considering it but if I do, it will take some rear fender work. My rear wheel tuck into the wheel wells under full compression and spacers would require me to trim the inner wheel well lip.
I wheeled it last weekend for the first time and I had no issue on some climbs that had pretty heavy ruts and there were no issues.
I am going to wheel it a lot more before I determine if it is needed.
My tires are only 11 wide. If I were running anything wider, I would have to cut a lot more.
I wheeled it last weekend for the first time and I had no issue on some climbs that had pretty heavy ruts and there were no issues.
I am going to wheel it a lot more before I determine if it is needed.
My tires are only 11 wide. If I were running anything wider, I would have to cut a lot more.
richingalveston
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If you are running a 1009, I do not see the need for airbags unless you are towing which I do not recommend anything heavy enough to require airbags.
The short wheel base is not good for anything that out weighs it.
4 inch lift is what you need for cross over steer. The cheapest way to do that is shackle flip. If you highway it you want sway bars. I am going to consider putting the front sway bar back on my truck.
You can run 33's just about as wide as you want with 1 inch blocks. I would not do blocks larger than 1 inch. I also would not lift anymore than the tires require. I would not spend anymore money past 1 inch blocks and nice 33's without cross over steer. Thus you go strait from 1 to 4.
Now you have the problems with 4 inch that you will then want to address. YOU NOW CAN RUN 37's!!!. Which then requires 1 ton axles, hydro assist, rear disc, and the list just keeps growing.
Rich
The short wheel base is not good for anything that out weighs it.
4 inch lift is what you need for cross over steer. The cheapest way to do that is shackle flip. If you highway it you want sway bars. I am going to consider putting the front sway bar back on my truck.
You can run 33's just about as wide as you want with 1 inch blocks. I would not do blocks larger than 1 inch. I also would not lift anymore than the tires require. I would not spend anymore money past 1 inch blocks and nice 33's without cross over steer. Thus you go strait from 1 to 4.
Now you have the problems with 4 inch that you will then want to address. YOU NOW CAN RUN 37's!!!. Which then requires 1 ton axles, hydro assist, rear disc, and the list just keeps growing.
Rich
topgun217
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After more reading I'll probably just do a shackle flip as suggested in rear. My front springs need replaced.
Thank for your thoughts. Def. New wheels are in order too.
Thank for your thoughts. Def. New wheels are in order too.
Rustyshackelford
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I did some rock crawling yesterday with my stock 1009. I have to say that the stock springs are really nice and flex very well. I'm definitely doing the shackle flip too so I can keep these.
I think I'm also going to get the tuff country springs up front so I can maintain good articulation. I'd hate to save some money by buying the rough country springs and end up losing off road ability.
I think I'm also going to get the tuff country springs up front so I can maintain good articulation. I'd hate to save some money by buying the rough country springs and end up losing off road ability.