DavidWymore
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Trans gear oil was low and nasty and these came out the drain plug. 
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Got a Deuce! '62 M35A1
- Thread starter DavidWymore
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mobileauto2000
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Free jewelry. I see an earring, tie clip and a brooch
DavidWymore
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Top cover next, but looks like trans is coming out and apart anyway. Probably oughta check out the TCase while I'm at it. Maybe go ahead and swap in the air shift case from the donor truck, but not sure yet if I'm stick with this old frame anyway.
I haven't found much on the forum on trans rebuilding. Glanced through the TM last night, but I'd like to see pics and read someone else's experience...pointers appreciated!
I haven't found much on the forum on trans rebuilding. Glanced through the TM last night, but I'd like to see pics and read someone else's experience...pointers appreciated!
DavidWymore
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Waterloo, destructions, wish there were pitchers. Be making my own here in a bit.
http://www.waterloospecialties.com/overdrive/transapart.html
http://www.waterloospecialties.com/overdrive/transapart.html
DavidWymore
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Lucky me. Hopefully that's the only bad bearing. I bet it is because it's down in the rear sump where all the crud goes.
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rustystud
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Most all "Semi Trucks" are 24 volt as are all transit busses. The reasons are many, the number one reason is starting. The 24 volt starter can spin over a cold diesel engine much easier then a 12 volt starter can.*Duck*
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?3022-Why-24V-system
The only reason I see remaining to stay 24v is originality...
DavidWymore
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I know but, "we ain't got no cold". It hit 30f at night once or twice this winter. T-shirt or light jacket during the day in the winter, summer is deadly.
steelandcanvas
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This Gentleman is a member here: M35tom. Give him a call, may he can help you with "pitchers".
Jeepsinker
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Remember, high heat is a factor in starting and charging as well. You won't find a reasonably priced lift pump that is 12v and works for these trucks either, and you do need the lift pump if you don't want to burn up the hydraulic head.
DavidWymore
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Real quick as I'm trying to get the trans buttoned back up today and have other stuff going on, pulled the PTO, good idea. Dumped the ^&%*&^% inside on myself in the process, stupid. It was leaking real bad because the shaft is flopping around, probably how the trans got low on oil. Gonna have to make a cover, got one that's close, but no cigar.
Bearing is a 307L or 6307NRJ, Chevy transfer case bearing, got one from Autozone. We had a plain 6307 without the snap ring groove.
Mr. Bauer has posted in my "thread" on the "M35A2 deuce and a half" facebook group, we agree the trans will need gone through thoroughly or replaced eventually, hopefully later than sooner.
Truck already has a high perf Holley 12v fuel pump on it I had laying around...I have read a lot of people say you don't need a lift pump, but Jack and others (and myself) say otherwise. I realized later that running my truck on the gas sprayer at first was not a good idea, lucky I didn't smoke the HH.
Bearing is a 307L or 6307NRJ, Chevy transfer case bearing, got one from Autozone. We had a plain 6307 without the snap ring groove.
Mr. Bauer has posted in my "thread" on the "M35A2 deuce and a half" facebook group, we agree the trans will need gone through thoroughly or replaced eventually, hopefully later than sooner.
Truck already has a high perf Holley 12v fuel pump on it I had laying around...I have read a lot of people say you don't need a lift pump, but Jack and others (and myself) say otherwise. I realized later that running my truck on the gas sprayer at first was not a good idea, lucky I didn't smoke the HH.
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DavidWymore
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Score! Found my parking brake cable in my truck's toolbox. Never looked close enough before. It was all rusted up, ran it in the vibrating ceramic media/solvent parts cleaner and then in a buckt of oil overnight. It's the good old style with the grease fitting. Got it loosened up and working, woot.
Another Ahab
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That sounds like an interesting item:
- What exactly does that thing look like, DavidWymore?
DavidWymore
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DavidWymore
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Cable
Attachments
Kaiser67M715
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Cool, nice to have machines like that.
on the cable which end is supposed to attach to the handle? I haven't looked too close at mine, but I am trying to get it out to free up. would be cool if mine is grease-able too
I will say, trying to unscrew the brake side is a bear, especially when the ground is soft with the melting snow
on the cable which end is supposed to attach to the handle? I haven't looked too close at mine, but I am trying to get it out to free up. would be cool if mine is grease-able too
I will say, trying to unscrew the brake side is a bear, especially when the ground is soft with the melting snow
DavidWymore
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I haven't checked to see which end is which yet.
I read in a thread around here the other day about soaking it(Kroil is good), tapping along the length to free them up and working it back and forth. I didn't have to tap on mine, just lots of soaking and muscling it back and forth in a vise. Took the old grease fitting out, soaked kroil in there, new fitting. It's free now, but I can only get grease to come all the way out one end.
I'm thinking to taking off the stud where it attaches to the handle and putting a clevis there so that it will pull evenly on the stamped handle and not twist it more than it is. Unfortunately, the seals are rotted off both ends, but I'll figure something out.
I read in a thread around here the other day about soaking it(Kroil is good), tapping along the length to free them up and working it back and forth. I didn't have to tap on mine, just lots of soaking and muscling it back and forth in a vise. Took the old grease fitting out, soaked kroil in there, new fitting. It's free now, but I can only get grease to come all the way out one end.
I'm thinking to taking off the stud where it attaches to the handle and putting a clevis there so that it will pull evenly on the stamped handle and not twist it more than it is. Unfortunately, the seals are rotted off both ends, but I'll figure something out.
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DavidWymore
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The cleaning tub is nice, throw nasty stuff in, walk away and work on something else. Have a coarse and fine blaster too...and a booth...all I need is lots of time and a little money and she'll be good as new. I might be able to get some of my guys on board with helping, which would go a long ways.
Kaiser67M715
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the stud/little round thing the cable goes through, should rotate freely, so the cable is always pulled straight. if not you should be able to just loosen the lock-nut so it does
as to a seal I think something like this would work, parking brake cables are all relatively the same size
as to a seal I think something like this would work, parking brake cables are all relatively the same size
DavidWymore
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We sell control cables here at work and I think they are similar. I can probably rob one from somewhere...
I was referring to the stud pulling on one side of the handle and twisting it. If I put a clevis on it, will still align with the hole (I think) but will pull on both sides of the handle.
I was referring to the stud pulling on one side of the handle and twisting it. If I put a clevis on it, will still align with the hole (I think) but will pull on both sides of the handle.
DavidWymore
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Ordered a water pump (good price, Walker Truck Parts I think on fleabay) and intake and exhaust gaskets from TNJ Murray. Gonna pull the radiator (repair leaks), water pump, and manifolds off (has exhaust leak) and clean the heck out of the cooling system.
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