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mechanical fuel pump removal on 6.2L

dependable

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Anyone found an easy way to remove and replace the mechanical pump? The biggest problem I have is getting access to the bolts, what a pain!
I recently replaced one. I ended up using a short flex head ratchet and a wobbly extension on one, and without extension on other, if I recall. It is a tight spot for a couple of the bolts.
 

Skinny

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The huge key to success is threading that line on first before bolting the pump to the block. Once it is rigid, you are almost guaranteed to never the get the threaded line started.
 

paladin1176

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The huge key to success is threading that line on first before bolting the pump to the block. Once it is rigid, you are almost guaranteed to never the get the threaded line started.
X2 on that. The only real problem I had after that was ensuring it was lined up correctly on the shaft before threading it on. I missed the first time and must have knocked it loose but used a little elbow grease the second to motivate the fuel line to stay in place and it worked fine.
 

Warthog

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Do not turn this into an EMP discussion.

It will be locked and deleted.
 

HoosierDaddy

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EMP , that's funny.

I've had two mechanical pumps fail on a gasser motor probably within a year or so. Each time they flooded the oil with gasoline, like someone suggested earlier.
Luckily I caught it at an idle the second time , the bearings were only a year (or so) old at that time due to the first incident.
Old(68 ) Ford Bronco with a 351 for those wondering.

Block off plates and electric pumps are now my friend. Very easy to replace if they do happen to take a dump and do not require rebuilding the bottom end because of a $30 part failure.

To be fair, I have had a hi pressure in-line (gas) fuel injection pump go out within a year , parts guy was shocked and exchanged with no hassle.

My point is that reliability can be argued for either pump , but the risk of taking out the bottom end lies solely with the mechanical pump. My 1028 still has the mech. pump , but I'm considering the spin on mod and will convert at that time also.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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My 1028 still has the mech. pump , but I'm considering the spin on mod and will convert at that time also.

That's where I am, except, substitute "planning" for considering. :beer:


And I'll probably design some kind of inertial cutoff to kill the pump in the event of a crash, you know, like the mechanical pumps have.

:mrgreen:
 

M1031CMT

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Just wanted to chime in on replacing the fuel pump on the CUCV.....

angry.jpg

Over 3.5 hours under/inside this truck to replace it. This just confirms to me that GM engineers (well engineers in general) are evil.

Pump on ours was working fine, but it was leaking on the flange in the middle where the two pieces come together. Wasn't a horrible leak, but bad enough that it made a good puddle after a while.

I used every swear word I knew, in two languages.....in the first 20 minutes. Thank god the closest neighbor was a km away. Even the dog left me and went back to the house after a while.

It was not fun in the slightest, but it is done. Removal wasn't easy, but it was pure joy compared to installing the new one.

I still prefer the mechanical one, but I can definitely see why some people go with an electric one. It would be so much easier to install.

Now that I have done it, I am sure I could do it in about an hour since I know what to do and not to do.

Biggest problem I found was the pin inside which you need to push back into the engine to be able to install the new pump (the pin, or whatever it is called, is what pushes down on the pump arm to make it work). Naturally you can't see inside the hole, so I couldn't understand why I couldn't get a hold of it to push it back. When you take off the pump, the pin slides down and sits against the engine block wall (well actually it is the plate that the pump sits on) and it is very hard to get a hold of. I could only feel the side of the pin and it would not move (I could only fit one finger in there). I turned the crank with a rachet, but it didn't move at all (I found out after that when it sits all the way down like that, the pin won't move when the crank turns since the roller is too far away to touch the pin). I finally removed the plate that the pump sits on, and was able to get a hold of the pin to push it back and then manually turn the crank to make sure it was all the way back. The pin then wouldn't stay in place and kept slipping back, but that was fixed by greasing it up a bit to hold it in place. Once it stayed in place, I put the plate back on and then put the pump on. Reconnecting the hoses wasn't horrible but it wasn't easy either. I had to use some adjustable pliers to bend the ridged hose into place so that it could be screwed in. In my rush to put the pump back on before the pin slid down again I didn't connect the ridged hose to the pump before bolting it (not a good idea). But I eventually got it back on. Once everything was reconnected, I pulled the outlet on the fuel filter (bottom line on the right) and used a small hand pump to pull fuel through the system. After that I loosen the breather valve on the top of the fuel filter and started the truck (which started right away). Once I finished making a mess with fuel bubbling out the top of the filter (and was sure there was no air in the system), I tighten the valve back up. I cleaned everything up, started up the truck again and checked for leaks. All good. Took it for a test drive and no leaks.

Never want to do that again.
 

welpro222

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Bellingham, WA
I have replaced the mechanical lift pump 3x times on 3x different trucks, 1x was with the engine out of the truck (very easy), and 2x were in the truck (not hard but time consuming). I like the idea of have a almost completely mechanical system running my truck minus the starter/glow plugs/shut off solenoid.

I have learned to:

Remove the pump and plate together, pull out the push rod.
Then clean the gasket surfaces very well.
Smear grease on push rod and install/
Clean and prep plate, coat gasket with RTV and install plate.
Coat pump gasket with rtv, and install on pump with bolts (bolts r retained by gasket)
Install lift pump, install bolts loose , then install fuel lines
Torque bolts

Prime and start truck.

I agree that a electric pump is faster to install and make easier priming, if you are in a hurry. I see the mechanical pump as a preventative maintenance item, at 50,000 miles I will install a new one. I also installed a lift pump pressure gauge, so I can monitor the pressure.
 

jpg

Member
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Location
Boston, MA
Now, are there any advantages to a mechanical pump? None that I can think of.
Well, I made my 650-mile recovery run with a fried alternator and no electricity. When I started, I thought it was a tired battery, and I figured I'd replace it when I got home. I was well under way when I learned otherwise. I used a jump box to get it started, and was careful to never turn the engine off after that.

Sometimes it's a good thing to not need electricity.
 

TechnoWeenie

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Nova Laboratories, WA
Well, I made my 650-mile recovery run with a fried alternator and no electricity. When I started, I thought it was a tired battery, and I figured I'd replace it when I got home. I was well under way when I learned otherwise. I used a jump box to get it started, and was careful to never turn the engine off after that.

Sometimes it's a good thing to not need electricity.
This.

The only power you need is for the fuel shutoff solenoid, after starting.

As long as it's Day or you have NODs
 

m1008chevy

Member
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0
6
Location
Canada,BC
I replaced my lift pump about a month ago. My truck has 227,000 kilometres on it, and its the first time the pumps been changed out. I don't really see the need to put an electric fuel pump on one of these trucks.
 

ranger1950

New member
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Location
pfafftown,nc
You are right, not fun. Just got finished replacing mine. Anyone who says its not hard has never replaced one. Did remove mounting plate and put stiff grease on push rod and it did not move. Used Permatex ultra black rtv on both gaskets. But still a pain in the but. Hope I don't have to do it again any time soon.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I can do it from the top side in about a 1/2 hour. My Wife done a few for me for $40. She is not so easily amused anymore. But doing it topside is the way to go. Only thing I go under for is the 2 M6 cover plate bolts. And letting everything loose is the key. Tighten only after everything is started. My way you remove the right alternator and bracket. It is EASY. Have a Great Day.
 

Merddin

Member
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-1
6
Location
Cape Girardeau, MO
I can do it from the top side in about a 1/2 hour. My Wife done a few for me for $40. She is not so easily amused anymore. But doing it topside is the way to go. Only thing I go under for is the 2 M6 cover plate bolts. And letting everything loose is the key. Tighten only after everything is started. My way you remove the right alternator and bracket. It is EASY. Have a Great Day.
My fuel pump went out early spring and I replaced it with a Carter pump. I noticed it was different than the OEM one at the time. It is still working for now. I read how you said they were selling the wrong pumps. Which is the right one and where can you get it? I remember you talked about a Delphi. I would like to have one on hand when the Carter gives up. The correct pump has the spring on top I believe. I saw one on eBay but it was $50.
 
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