Rmtaunton
Well-known member
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I'm gonna go with no , but I doubt any of us bought a 6x6 for milage
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Lock out on forward rear axle, to prevent drive line bind
- Thread starter skinnyR1
- Start date
- 12,195
- 325
- 0
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- gainesville, ga.
It is supposed to and also help with the tires scrubbing along with tighter steering,(not so much push), though you have to be careful, with the front axle NOT engaged and only one rear axle pulling you COULD get stuck on the wrong side of a WET speed bump (this HAS happened to a long time member leaving the Aberdeen show).
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Not as much as installing a 300cid ford motor.
- 2,096
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- Orlando, FL
I was pretty happy my stock Deuce got 10 MPG. I had a 440 Duster that only got 10 MPG running 100LL (but was fast), and a '79 Dodge Power wagon that got 11 MPG. If you are starting in the single digits for fuel mileage, you are not going to see a huge improvement. Just suck it up and quit worrying about it.
ccf460
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I don't believe this is a mileage improving mod. Driveability is the gain on this one.
- 12,195
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- gainesville, ga.
It is because the rear tires are not fighting each other, even if the tires are DEAD ON MATCHED, they will still fight each other on turns due to the two axles are locked together with the direct driveshaft, UNlike civi 3axle trucks that have a power divider in number two axle that disconnects it from the drive train till it is needed.
Where can I get more info on tire scrub, axle bind, ect. Saw a post and some nasty pictures of broken axle parts on another thread that got me thinking about my truck (post #3898 from forum "what did you do to your deuce this week")....also how do you create links to posts, I have found it incredible useful when searching this site when people put links in. Anyway searched the subject of axle bind, drive shaft removal, and such and didn't come to any conclusions for my self. Is the binding a real issue for a truck that only sees 2-3000 miles of use per year? I use the truck on my wood lot, but 80% of driving is done on the hard to get back and forth. Have the truck out of service right now for some brake repair and am just spending some time researching other mods that might be useful to me now or in the future. Mostly concerned about saving truck from unnecessary wear and tear.
Any more Links and opinions on lock out for forward rear axle? Seems pricey but best long term solution.
Also opinions on rear drive shaft removal? Seems like more work than it's worth for a low mileage truck, especially since I do venture off road some.
Thanks
Any more Links and opinions on lock out for forward rear axle? Seems pricey but best long term solution.
Also opinions on rear drive shaft removal? Seems like more work than it's worth for a low mileage truck, especially since I do venture off road some.
Thanks
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Do you have the air shift or Sprague T/C? With the air shift, you decide when the front axle is engaged - everything in it still turns, but no power is applied. If that is suitable, then just remove the shaft between the two rear axles. You would wind up with two wheel drive most of the time, four wheel drive for some special times, and six wheel drive when really needed (advance planning required).
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- Right-click on the post#, for the post to be linked;
- Select (left-click) "copy URL";
- Go back to your reply-to-post-window and "paint" the single word (or text portion) to be converted into a link;
- Move cursor up a bit and click on the icon with the globe & chain-link, from that window's tool bar.
- A new window pops up; make another right-click where it says URL;
- Select option "Paste" to insert the copied URL;
- Select OK.
- Linked word or text should appear in yellow. Click on it to test.
That's it.
G.
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- gainesville, ga.
You could pull #2 axles and replace with front hub drive caps, this way only #3 drives pulls, if 6x6 is going to be needed, just jack up the side, pull the cap, install the axle, do the same for the other side, this is a LOT faster then pulling the drive shaft, AND can be done on the side of the road in 10 minutes. All you need is a 1/2 drive breaker bar with the correct socket already on it (this stays in the truck as a truck tool) and your truck jack/blocks used to change a tire.
If you are running desplined front drive caps, you could use the splined caps on #2 axle (they will not get lost), then when going to 6x6 they go on the front and the axles from under the seat that is rapped in rags gets install.
Do NOT worry about gaskets, a good clean surface with grease will work just fine. A gasket is ONLY needed for a rough surface, a good, non pressurized machined surface will seal with grease (grease gun is also a stay on the truck truck tool),
If you are running desplined front drive caps, you could use the splined caps on #2 axle (they will not get lost), then when going to 6x6 they go on the front and the axles from under the seat that is rapped in rags gets install.
Do NOT worry about gaskets, a good clean surface with grease will work just fine. A gasket is ONLY needed for a rough surface, a good, non pressurized machined surface will seal with grease (grease gun is also a stay on the truck truck tool),
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It's air shift front
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- 12,195
- 325
- 0
- Location
- gainesville, ga.
It should be noted that there is or was not sure if still available a KIT that has a DOUBLE splined axle and a locking hub but was $$$$, you use on on side of #2 axle, the third member free wheels, This would work the same as pulling the axles and the same as the front axle with locking hubs.