MEP 802A Hook Up

[DieselAddict]

I read this page: http://www.esgroundingsolutions.com...eutral-and-the-ground-wire-in-the-main-panel/

I will ask the local electrician for input of course, but as I understand the neutral and ground may need to be bonded at the generator in my case.

Since you have a 3 wire feeder to your sub panel in the barn things will be a little more complicated. The code changed in the 2014 edition.

Per the 2014 edition of the code you should bond the neutral and ground buss in the sub panel as long as there are no other possible ground paths back to the house (cable tv line, metallic conduit, metal water pipes). In this case you would leave the neutral and ground unbonded at the generator and bond them at the sub panel. You can use a breaker interlock with that configuration and be OK.

 

[SandBar]

Thank you. I will ask my electrician to do this, for my own education does that simply mean running the ground wire from outside into the panel and terminating it on the neutral bus inside the barn panel? We used direct burial triplex (no metal conduit) and the internet is wireless so no other paths back to the house.

 

[dependable]

We used direct burial triplex (no metal conduit) and the internet is wireless so no other paths back to the house.

Triplex + ground? (4 wires total)

 

[steelandcanvas]

Thank you. I will ask my electrician to do this, for my own education does that simply mean running the ground wire from outside into the panel and terminating it on the neutral bus inside the barn panel? We used direct burial triplex (no metal conduit) and the internet is wireless so no other paths back to the house.

The Neutral must be bonded to the enclosure, usually this is done with a long green screw through the buss into the enclosure. From the ground buss, connect your ground rod(s), and GND on the genset. I would do this without a break in the wire, feed through your acorn or ground clamp on the rod, and then back to the genset. You can feed the wire opposite way also, whichever is easier. What made this different from other genset connections, is that you're feeding the house system from a sub-panel, and not the main service panel.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
2 x MEP-802a generators
Your electrical system is working fine at your house and barn?
If it is working fine, then any changes will take place at the generators.

The Main service panel at your house has a interlock and you will power that panel with one generator, then unbonded on generator.

The barn has a sub-panel (but is a service panel with main breaker, you will use a interlock at this panel and will leave the generator bonded, drive a ground rod, wire from ground rod to grounding stud on generator) The generator is the separately derived power, and will be the bonding location for the neutral and ground.

The above all works if your electrical system is approved and working correctly the way it is right now. If you look into the panel at the barn, and you see the panel box being the bonding location, then, that is the bond, and the copper plate is removed on the genset.

 

[SandBar]

Thought I should clarify the two generator part: I have one at the house and one at the barn. When the barn is on standby power the interlock used and power from the load center at the house is disconnected. When the house is on standby power, the barn break on the load center is disconnected and the interlock on the house panel is used to disconnect from the main as well. I appreciate all of this information, I only wonder now if I will need a 803a to replace the 802a at the house, our 3 ton house AC is a real hard starter.

 

[jimbo913]

Do you have a hard start capacitor on the AC? I recommend the Supco 3W1

 

[SandBar]

I do not yet, but I have been meaning to and this is likely the catalyst to make it happen. If the 802a wont start it I do have several window shakers I could deploy instead.

 

[schavez70]

OK... So I am new to the MEP802A or any generators of this size... The MEP802A I have does not have (or I do not know what I am looking for) a bar or strap to connect the Ground lug to the Lo/neutral Lug... I am operating in a remote location with an 8 foot ground rod installed. Does anyone have a pict of what the Bonding Strap or bar should look like? And if I do not have it can I just run the Ground wire off of the grounding rod through the Gnd Lug and carry to to the low lug as well?.... am I understanding that set up correctly or not?

I have run 6 gauge 4 wire to my breakers box from the Generator. Right now before I have fired anything up I have the black hooked to the L1 lug.... The Red hooked to the L3 lug.... The green hooked to the gnd Lug and the white hooked to the LO lug. From the grounding Rod I have 6 gauge Solid copper wire that is connected to the Gnd lug and passes through to the LO lug.

Any Insight would be greatly appreciated!

PS... I am really new to this forum so I am not sure if someone already has a picture of the proper set up posted but I thought I would ask

 

[DieselAddict]

From the grounding Rod I have 6 gauge Solid copper wire that is connected to the Gnd lug and passes through to the LO lug.

And Insight would be greatly appreciated!

By running the ground lead through the L0 and GND lugs you have bonded them together. You are good.

 

[schavez70]

Diesel.... Thanks again so much!!!... I felt like I had it ok for my application but I just wanted to double Check that this would not be a real bad situation... through the forums I saw lots of set-ups connecting to an existing on the grid system but since I was off the grid I was pretty sure they had to be bonded and I did not see a bonding bar on my genset where I saw it described in the forums.... Again I can not thank you enough for your prompt response!!!

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
Separate power source (middle of field etc) then you have the ground bonding strap in place. The copper piece next to N ( L0 ) because you have a ground rod, and its attached to the ground lug.




If connecting to house, then you make use of the house grounding system, the copper bonding strap is then removed.

BUT, if the copper piece is missing, you can make one. YES, what you are doing with the wire thru the ground lug and the N lug work fine too.

 

[schavez70]

Thanks so much for the pict.... Is the bonding Strap/bar the plate on the lower right with the copper looking nuts on it?

 

[DieselAddict]

Thanks so much for the pict.... Is the bonding Strap/bar the plate on the lower right with the copper looking nuts on it?

It is.

 

[schavez70]

I do not believe that plate is on my unit but I will verify it when I get out to the property this weekend.... again I can not thank you all enough!!!!

 

[DieselAddict]

The plate isn't necessary with how you have it hooked up.