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Connected my MEP-803A the proper way as my home standby generator... Install pics...

ZackMan

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Glockfan,

I recently acquired an MEP 803a mounted on a trailer for portability. I do plan to use the unit as a home backup in case of a power loss for single phase 120/240. In your case, I noticed that the wiring to the house is permanent in connection. Is there a way for me to just plug one end of the power supply into, let's say, a 50 amp outlet box?

Please excuse my question, I am brand new to this "stuff." Thank you for any advice and/or recommendation.

ZackMan
 

DieselAddict

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My MEP003 is trailer mounted and serves double duty for field power and home backup power. I have a 50a outlet mounted on the generator frame. When I'm using it in the field I have a cord that plugs into a breakoutbox. When I'm using it for home backup the same cord connects it to the generator inlet on the side of the house.

Edit - You'll still need to have either a transfer switch (preferred) or a breaker interlock (not preferred but possibly code compliant) installed to be able to get the generator power into the house. Also make sure when you are running the generator to the house the neutral/ground bonding bar is removed from the terminal lug box on the generator. When you are using it in the field powering loads solo that bonding bar will need to be in place.

We are getting ready to put a MEP802 at my brothers house for backup power and we will be doing the same thing. Mounting an outlet on the side of the generator and using twist-lock cords to connect loads. That way we don't have to tinker with how the generator is connected to anything. We just make up the appropriate cord.
 
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Glockfan

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Chris pretty much summed up about what I would tell you Zack. You could install a DPDT safety switch like I did and instead of making it a static install, just have a plug mounted on the side of your house to plug your 803 into. I know Hubbell makes some nice (expensive) round plugs and sockets. We have an install using the same Square D safety switch that I have on a local police station. They have an 803 that can just plug right up to the building during an outage. The next time I am over there visiting my police chief friend I will post a picture for this thread if I remember...
 

ZackMan

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DieselAddict and Glockfan,

Thank you both for your responses, I appreciate it. My presumption, and correct me if I am wrong, is that the single phase connection wiring on the generator would be set up on the power outlet box via the L1, L3, L0 and ground. Is that correct? I may have missed something in your responses. Please excuse my mental thickness on this one. I presume a qualified electrician may be able to figure this one out if I need him/her.

Thanks again.
 

Glockfan

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Location
Brigham City, Utah
DieselAddict and Glockfan,

Thank you both for your responses, I appreciate it. My presumption, and correct my if I am wrong, is that the single phase connection wiring on the generator would be set up on the power outlet box via the L1, L3, L0 and ground. Is that correct? I may have missed something in your responses. Please excuse my mental thickness on this one. I presume a qualified electrician may be able to figure this one out if I need him/her.

Thanks again.
That's exactly how I have mine set up... You should run trouble free in this configuration. The only time I switch my generator to three phase output is when I load bank it. Speaking of, I guess I'll do that again when this rain clears up. If anyone is interested in another load bank test, I'll post the results in this enormously long thread or I could start a new thread...
 

ZackMan

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Location
Virginia
That's exactly how I have mine set up... You should run trouble free in this configuration. The only time I switch my generator to three phase output is when I load bank it. Speaking of, I guess I'll do that again when this rain clears up. If anyone is interested in another load bank test, I'll post the results in this enormously long thread or I could start a new thread...
10-4
 

Another Ahab

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We are getting ready to put a MEP802 at my brothers house for backup power and we will be doing the same thing. Mounting an outlet on the side of the generator and using twist-lock cords to connect loads. That way we don't have to tinker with how the generator is connected to anything. We just make up the appropriate cord.
That's a great plan, as an alternate. But is there a chart or something correlating cord size and length-to-loads somewhere?

I see neighbors sometimes running light-duty household extensions ganged together during the occasional power outages of the neighborhood (from one house, across the lawn, and across the street, and across another lawn until it reaches the neighbor).

The idea is very friendly (for the refrigerators usually), but I have to think that approach might be doing more damage than good (like burning out the motor on the far end). Is my thinking right there? What's the story with all of that?
 

DieselAddict

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In case you are interested this is the inlet that I used. It uses the "California" style twist-locks with the extra center pin. I like how these fit together better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TNTZ8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

This would be its matching connector - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HS0HQW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Glockfan - Always happy to see generators being tested. I have a few 802s I am servicing and testing. I'll using my red-neck water heater load bank though. Nothing is happening until the yard doesn't feel like jello under my feet.
 

Another Ahab

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That's exactly how I have mine set up... You should run trouble free in this configuration. The only time I switch my generator to three phase output is when I load bank it. Speaking of, I guess I'll do that again when this rain clears up. If anyone is interested in another load bank test, I'll post the results in this enormously long thread or I could start a new thread...
This thread is good and healthy for sure, but it's still kindergarten to some of them on the forum here (I think "MV Spotted" just hit on post #500 the other day). :)
 

DieselAddict

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That's a great plan, as an alternate. But is there a chart or something correlating cord size and length-to-loads somewhere?

I see neighbors sometimes running light-duty household extensions ganged together during the occasional power outages of the neighborhood (from one house, across the lawn, and across the street, and across another lawn until it reaches the neighbor).

The idea is very friendly (for the refrigerators usually), but I have to think that approach might be doing more damage than good (like burning out the motor on the far end). Is my thinking right there? What's the story with all of that?
Voltage drop is absolutely a killer to motor driven appliances. In general a 100' 20a RATED drop cord should be treated as a 15 amp cord for voltage drop.

When I'm using my generator in the field for power I use a power distribution box like this one - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000289AQK/ref=olp_product_details?ie=UTF8&me=

Edit - The inlet on that distro box matches the cord connector I referenced a couple of posts up.

One of the pluses of the MEP generators is the ability to adjust the voltage to help overcome long leads. That doesn't FIX the problem but it can help to prevent damage. When in a situation like that nothing replaces a good volt meter to make sure you are operating in a safe zone voltage wise.
 
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ZackMan

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Location
Virginia
In case you are interested this is the inlet that I used. It uses the "California" style twist-locks with the extra center pin. I like how these fit together better.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009TNTZ8M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

This would be its matching connector - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HS0HQW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Glockfan - Always happy to see generators being tested. I have a few 802s I am servicing and testing. I'll using my red-neck water heater load bank though. Nothing is happening until the yard doesn't feel like jello under my feet.
Chris,

Visualization, for me at least, is always most helpful. This gives me a better understanding that I can share with an electrician.

ZackMan
:-D
 

DieselAddict

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I hear ya. That inlet box doesn't show the bottom but it does include the 50a receptacle. It is a complete assembly. On the Amazon page it comes across as just a very expensive plastic box but I assure you there is more in there. :)
 

Another Ahab

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I hear ya. That inlet box doesn't show the bottom but it does include the 50a receptacle. It is a complete assembly. On the Amazon page it comes across as just a very expensive plastic box but I assure you there is more in there.
The $60 price doesn't seem way out of line for the NEMA rating and all, but there are no dimensions shown (that I noticed).

I'm guessing a little smaller than a cookie jar or something?
 

ZackMan

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Virginia
Are you connecting an MEP or a commercial genset to your house? If you are going to use an MEP, the connection should be made at the terminal lugs on the generator.

View attachment 538776

You should leave your ground bonded to neutral via the copper bar while your MEP is "portable". You will notice that my bar has been removed since I'm perm connected.
Glockfan,

Please excuse this question. You mentioned removing the copper bar. What does it look like? Is it the 90 degree angled bar at the bottom of the ground and neutral terminal lugs?

ZackMan
 

ZackMan

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Its about a 5" cube. Not that big.

Here is a photo of it mounted on the house with the 50a plug/6ga cord connected.
Chris,

That's a great explanation. I noticed that your power cord is rather long. Is that because you wanted to reduce the decibles somewhat?

ZackMan
 

DieselAddict

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The cord is 100'. That lets me keep the generator out of the yard and on the driveway. It also allows for more sound isolation from distance when we are using it in the field to power lights for small film productions.

100' is about the limit I would go on 6ga and still expect full power. If I were to go longer I would drop down to 4ga to keep the voltage drop low.
 

Glockfan

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Glockfan,

Please excuse this question. You mentioned removing the copper bar. What does it look like? Is it the 90 degree angled bar at the bottom of the ground and neutral terminal lugs?

ZackMan
That sounds like it. It will be a silver (zinc coated?) copper bar held in place by a couple of 7/16 or 1/2 nuts.
 
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