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M989A1 recovery and towing tips.

Plane Fast

Member
408
3
18
Location
Panama city FL
Moving the trailer.
I had every part in the storage box but a tow pin. Today I was going to put the trailer away. I tried my best to back the trailer up without it. There is no way! I have to back up in a confined space. I try to use an old tow hitch pin. The trailer laughed at it! It broke that pin with just the slightest of pressure. So now I'm going to have to sources one. (Or make one)
The other issue, is TM does not have a parts break down of the rear brake cans. It just has them as one unit. I'm going to need diaphragms to rebuild them. If someone has the part number that would be great!

I forgot that I ended up in a small convoy yesterday. I had pulled off the road to check out a noise. I was waiting my turn to get back on the road and I saw four M1078's and two 977's coming down I-10. They slowed and blocked traffic so I could get going. They must have been trying to figure out who the heck was in the truck. I just waved and gave them a thumbs up! Thanks guys!

This is is going to be a fun trailer. Just think how much beer one would hold! :)
Now to work out the bugs.
 

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Another Ahab

Well-known member
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4,579
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Location
Alexandria, VA
Moving the trailer.

This is is going to be a fun trailer. Just think how much beer one would hold! :)
Now to work out the bugs.
With a liner and a water jet or two you could even use it as a rolling Jacuzzi:

- Might be a hit at a rally.

The possibilities are endless.


jacuzzi.jpg
 
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M920

Member
892
25
18
Location
chama/nm
I'm pretty sure the rear brake chambers are just a standard type 30-30 commercial brake chamber. Any truck supply house should carry them. Or you can buy the whole thing new for $40-50. All you have to do is cut the threaded actuating rod to the same length as the one on the old one and change the crosshead over.

Soni

P.s. I'm sure you know this already but do not try to open the spring brake portion of the chamber. If that one has the bad diaphragm you should just replace it Unless of course you have the necessary knowledge and equipment to preform this dangerous task safely.... :)
 
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Plane Fast

Member
408
3
18
Location
Panama city FL
I'm pretty sure the rear brake chambers are just a standard type 30-30 commercial brake chamber. Any truck supply house should carry them. Or you can buy the whole thing new for $40-50. All you have to do is cut the threaded actuating rod to the same length as the one on the old one and change the crosshead over.

Soni

P.s. I'm sure you know this already but do not try to open the spring brake portion of the chamber. If that one has the bad diaphragm you should just replace it Unless of course you have the necessary knowledge and equipment to preform this dangerous task safely.... :)
Thanks Soni.
Ya I just want to replace the whole can. It's not worth the hassle to cage the brake and change out the parts. To much risk. It is a good reminder though how dangerous it is.
By the way you have some very nice toys!:)
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
18,007
4,579
113
Location
Alexandria, VA

Plane Fast

Member
408
3
18
Location
Panama city FL
That's a good idea. Did you just cage the rear brakes?

Update on the pin I bought. It is the right diameter, but it is about 1 1/2" too short. It works. I just have to push it all the way in, without a pin to hold it in.

Started some rust prevention today. Ospho the rust spots, so I can paint it.
 

98G

Former SSG
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
AZ/KS/MO/OK/NM/NE, varies by the day...
Yes, I just caged the rear brakes to push it around with redtruck.

As an aside, the brakes were caged when i picked it up from GP. I removed the cage bolts prior to towing it on the road. In fact, I used it as a parking brake for the deuce - when i stopped I'd turn off the valve and unhook the emergency brake line, thus engaging the springbrakes.

Backing these things is tricky at best. Locking the steering is really a suboptimal solution as that limits you to backing in a straight line and the least deviation from that puts a lot of shearing force on the locking pin.

My intent is to generally avoid backing it, and when I do I'll be doing it (very very carefully)with the steering unlocked.
 

datadawg

New member
253
4
0
Location
Bucks County, PA
Is the M989A1 suitable for towing an armored vehicle? I know it's long and stout enough to handle weight and size, but I'm wondering about loading... Is it feasible to make ramps to drive up the trailer? I would need to tow a Saracen (British APC) with my 5 ton. The other conundrum is how you handle the deep well -- if you have to build it up to make a flat deck, I think it would be too costly and involved.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
18,007
4,579
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
Is the M989A1 suitable for towing an armored vehicle? I know it's long and stout enough to handle weight and size, but I'm wondering about loading... Is it feasible to make ramps to drive up the trailer? I would need to tow a Saracen (British APC) with my 5 ton. The other conundrum is how you handle the deep well -- if you have to build it up to make a flat deck, I think it would be too costly and involved.
Have you been Good? Was that on your Shopping List to Santa!? :naner:
 

datadawg

New member
253
4
0
Location
Bucks County, PA
Have you been Good? Was that on your Shopping List to Santa!? :naner:
Saracen acquisition unrelated to Santa! Just got bit by armor bug and long story short, an armored Cold War era British APC journeyed across the Atlantic to Pennsylvania. For some reason I can't upload photos, but it's the same model as this one.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pHCCTKk0Jwk
I was hoping I could snag an inexpensive trailer off GL or GP, but nothing seems to be suitable for a tagalong.
 
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