rustystud
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Since no one has the exact specs for the output shaft and 4wd adapter I am kinda halfway shooting in the dark.
Ask and you shal receive !View attachment Scan0048.pdf
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Since no one has the exact specs for the output shaft and 4wd adapter I am kinda halfway shooting in the dark.
Ask and you shal receive !View attachment Scan0048.pdf
Lol or you can pressure check it before you reassemble the transmission. Are you done yet?You can do that and run the risk of a damaged seal ring and not know until it is in the truck. Or you can buy the correct tool and do it right.
I appreciate the info but the 400 has a different adapter. The 9 1/4 shaft would be crazy long. The 2wd 4l80e I have has the 8 1/8Since no one has the exact specs for the output shaft and 4wd adapter I am kinda halfway shooting in the dark.
Ask and you shal receive !View attachment 604276
I'm looking for the specs on what length of output shaft to use for the conversion.I have done a 4L80 2 wheel to 4 wheel conversion and also bought no specific tools. It was about 8 years ago so not sure on the specs you are looking for. The one thing I do remember is that there is a plug between the case and tailshaft housing. On a 2 wheel drive there is a pin hole in it to allow trans fluid to lube the tail shaft. When doing a 4 wheel conversion it needs to be changed to one with no hole or the trans will fill the t-case with trans fluid.
You can get the plug at any transmission shop.I'm looking for the specs on what length of output shaft to use for the conversion.
I do see the hole your referring to, it's a plug in the transmission case. Is there a different plug that I need to attain?
You can get the plug at any transmission shop.
Specs are gonna vary, there are a few different ways to do it.
I used a 2wd 4l80, tall 400 to 205 adapter (fig.
I had adapter machined, changed the plug & cut down the output shaft of the 4L80.
I also have the rare (91 only) factory 4l80/205 setup but decided to use the newer 2wd 4l80 because of the improved cooling & updates.
If I remember correctly I cut 1/2 to 3/4 inch off the 2wd shaft.
I'm curious brazengoat. How many automatic transmissions have you rebuilt ? If you have built more then one then you would realize that the seals can be damaged from a faulty install and still pass a air pressure check on the bench. It's after it has been run awhile that the damaged seal will let go.Lol or you can pressure check it before you reassemble the transmission. Are you done yet?
Enough of them.I'm curious brazengoat. How many automatic transmissions have you rebuilt ? If you have built more then one then you would realize that the seals can be damaged from a faulty install and still pass a air pressure check on the bench. It's after it has been run awhile that the damaged seal will let go.
Yes seems like I just read a similar thread last night. Not sure how true it is but it's definitely plausible depending on the oil passage that it's tied to, so I am gonna try and do the same and find a freeze plug.I had a guy on another forum that's done the 2wd to 4wd conversion tell me to make sure to plug the drain hole in the rear housing also. He said he popped out the plug with the hole and took it up to the local parts store and sized it up to some freeze plugs until he found one close to size to drive in place to block the oil passage. According to him not only do you have to worry about oil passing back and forth but a loss in line pressure due to it also.
Well then give use some pictures and a statement of how it's done. You have me curious now. Actually I'm all in favor of a good and cheap way of doing things so long as it really works reliably .Enough of them.
MOST 99% seals that pass an air check on reassembly will last the life of the transmission. I find it funny you haven't even bothered to ask what method I'm using to install the seals yet would rather argue. The method I use is just as reliable as an installer but your more than welcome to do it the more expensive way.
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