Electrical

[Vhyle]

I posted my own thread so I don't hijack yours, OP.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

What kind of idiot is posting on a vehicle forum at 8:30-ish on Christmas Eve, anyway????


Oh, wait....

 

[trukhead]

Dang, Another good thread! I'll post as I diagnosis a disassembled M1028 and an M1008.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

I'm trying to chronicle this as thoroughly as I can so hopefully it can be used by someone else. As for the Christmas Eve thing--you guys know how it is: it's an obsession. Especially the closer you get to figuring it out. My wife's constantly at me to quit and work on more "appropriate" projects, forgetting that I have to drive this thing to work tomorrow and I still have to put the console all back together...despite the issue, I know it's drivable as long as I monitor the charge on the rear battery...

Merry Christmas, Gentlemen!! Thanks for all the help. I'm sure I'll be back at it soon! Feel free to comment as you feel the need....

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Geez...well about 2 weeks after my last post here, my driver's side rear axle broke, so, the beast has been parked until I figured THAT little problem out. I've been posting to my thread Front end/Rear end swap as I work on it...

As for the electrical--a friend of mine said I likely fried the regulator in GEN 2, when I hooked it up backwards. So, since he offered to reimburse me for an alternator rebuild kit if he was wrong, I went ahead and did it. Soooo, this weekend, while I impatiently await parts for my 14 bolt swap, I'll be rebuilding GEN 2...I'll let you know how it goes...

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Free rebuild kit for me....Gen 2 light still doesn't come on. So, today, I read, and read, and read some more since it was cold out and I really didn't want to go outside. I did however find a little something yesterday when it was 62 degrees out.
What the heck is it??? It's on the passenger's side behind and a little below battery #2. The contacts were rusted and the ground wire was gone from the connector...
So, I cut all of the wires out of the connector and put blade-type female connectors on the wires and connected them individually to the...THING--whatever it is...Still no Gen 2 light. So, I found Warthog's "Fusible Links 101." GREAT STUFF!!! I finally knew where my fusible links were, and what and where to look to find them. AAAAND, I found this....How it wasn't staring me in the face last year, I'll never know...
I'm guessing that little 12 gauge beauty is the culprit. I ordered 4 feet of the stuff and I plan on making my own connections by following Warthog's instructions. I'm also looking for some of the other sizes in bulk so I can make some spares. Even if it doesn't solve my Gen 2 problem, I never want to be caught without those again!

 

[cucvrus]

The picture you are showing is the blower motor resistor. It is the devise that controls the different speeds of the blower motor thru resistance. Thus the coils. That is a simple explanation. There is more technical terms but I wanted to keep it simple. I am not a key board wizard. The other wire is a fusible link that should be fixed but I do not think it is burnt off. I think your gen 2 light is in the wiring on the left side of the engine, the cluster circuit board, or the alternator itself. that is my guess from afar. Good Luck.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Darn it... I wired it wrong too. It wasn't supposed to have the negative connected to it. Now my Gen 1 light went out with my blower motor... Yay--more stuff to figure out...

My Mom always said I don't ever lean anything unless it's the had way... Chalk it up to a learning g opportunity, I guess... A frustrating one...

 

[PeeWeeQ]

So, I had a meltdown...In a very tired and frustrated stupor, I connected my orange 20 ga fusible link wire on gen 2 to the same lug as the red wire w/ white stripe---AGAIN. Smoke and fireworks ensued. Replaced ALL of the fusible links (bought wire in bulk and made my own according to Warthog's instructions on the "Fusible links 101" thread--thank you, Sir!), reconnected the battery 1 chassis ground wire (who knows how long that was disconnected for), AND installed battery cut-off switches for both batteries.

SIGH--my new Carquest alternator belts failed after 2 weeks (actually 1 broke off and took out 2 by somehow causing it to jump the pulley and wrap around the fan). I ordered Gatorbacks from RockAuto yesterday, plus spares.

Gen 2 light STILL doesn't come on, BUT in all of my recent adventures, I discovered 2 wires not connected to anything. One is a light blue wire with a push-on connector on the driver's side just on the engine side of the firewall. The other one (which, because of it's color, I suspect could be the answer to my Gen 2 gremlin) is brown with a white stripe and is on the driver's side coming out of some wire loom right below the driver's side headlight. It's a blade-type, female, push-on connector--looks like roughly 16 gauge. Any ideas?

 

[NovacaineFix]

So, I had a meltdown...In a very tired and frustrated stupor, I connected my orange 20 ga fusible link wire on gen 2 to the same lug as the red wire w/ white stripe---AGAIN. Smoke and fireworks ensued. Replaced ALL of the fusible links (bought wire in bulk and made my own according to Warthog's instructions on the "Fusible links 101" thread--thank you, Sir!), reconnected the battery 1 chassis ground wire (who knows how long that was disconnected for), AND installed battery cut-off switches for both batteries.

SIGH--my new Carquest alternator belts failed after 2 weeks (actually 1 broke off and took out 2 by somehow causing it to jump the pulley and wrap around the fan). I ordered Gatorbacks from RockAuto yesterday, plus spares.

Gen 2 light STILL doesn't come on, BUT in all of my recent adventures, I discovered 2 wires not connected to anything. One is a light blue wire with a push-on connector on the driver's side just on the engine side of the firewall. The other one (which, because of it's color, I suspect could be the answer to my Gen 2 gremlin) is brown with a white stripe and is on the driver's side coming out of some wire loom right below the driver's side headlight. It's a blade-type, female, push-on connector--looks like roughly 16 gauge. Any ideas?
View attachment 613642View attachment 613645View attachment 613646

I believe that is the sender unit connector for your brake pressure indicator
light off of the proportioning valve.


It's mounted to the front crossmember underneath the radiator, more on the driver's side. Mine isn't hooked up either, so not to worry. You'll probably find that it's too short to reach the proportioning valve as well, not sure why this is, if anyone else knows, please fill me in too.

 

[joshuak]

I believe that is the sender unit connector for your brake pressure indicator
light off of the proportioning valve.
View attachment 613660

It's mounted to the front crossmember underneath the radiator, more on the driver's side. Mine isn't hooked up either, so not to worry. You'll probably find that it's too short to reach the proportioning valve as well, not sure why this is, if anyone else knows, please fill me in too.

I don't think it is meant to. The female connector pictured is #16 in your diagram meant to attach to a male spade connector on the left frame rail (#17), that in turn makes connection to the proportioning valve.

Why? For me, it made it "easier" to pull my engine wiring harness without having to crawl under and reach the valve.

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Sooooo... Took a break from gen 2 and installed an electric fuel pump (see my build thread).

Anyway, with the ignition ON, I got approximately 17.85 volts on both sides of the Gen 2 diode and NOTHING between the leads on the gen 2 connector. Do I have an over-voltage somehow? Any idea why? I get the same voltage on the input side of the 10 AMP, 24 volt fuse...

What's going on?

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[PeeWeeQ]

Sorry.... Still have 12V on the brain--i mean UNDER-voltage....

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[PeeWeeQ]

So, I pulled the fuse block apart and will have it out soon....Here's what it looks like....



In addition, maybe someone will get back to me before I look at the schematics, but, where does this black wire with a white stripe go? I just found it in the wire loom by the hood release and it appears to have been cut...

 

[cpf240]

My guess would be that it is the wire goes from the seat belt switch to the seat belt reminder buzzer.

 

[Baer]

Now I have more starting problems. In the past I have had problems with the batteries not accepting a full charge. I replaced them. Then I had problems with the starter itself and I replaced it with with an updated/faster starter. Then there was the time when I went to start the engine and smoke came out at the firewall. I replaced a burnt fusible link. Then came one of the batteries not getting a full charge so I had Gen 1 rebuilt. Relays both on the firewall and inside under the dash, were also replaced in there somewhere. Everything was working fine until I got in it (10 minutes after driving it) I turned the starter and ... nothing. Dash lights, instruments, even the fasten your seat-belt buzzer worked but what I did not hear was the clicking of relay or the starter. Once again I am open to suggestions AND does anyone know of a good mechanic in Central California who can work on the 12/24 volt system of the CUCV?

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Started cleaning...Hit it with brake cleaner (yup--brake cleaner), wire brushes, and some compressed air....More cleaning tomorrow and some pics...

 

[PeeWeeQ]

Now I have more starting problems. In the past I have had problems with the batteries not accepting a full charge. I replaced them. Then I had problems with the starter itself and I replaced it with with an updated/faster starter. Then there was the time when I went to start the engine and smoke came out at the firewall. I replaced a burnt fusible link. Then came one of the batteries not getting a full charge so I had Gen 1 rebuilt. Relays both on the firewall and inside under the dash, were also replaced in there somewhere. Everything was working fine until I got in it (10 minutes after driving it) I turned the starter and ... nothing. Dash lights, instruments, even the fasten your seat-belt buzzer worked but what I did not hear was the clicking of relay or the starter. Once again I am open to suggestions AND does anyone know of a good mechanic in Central California who can work on the 12/24 volt system of the CUCV?

That fusible link--make sure you check them all. There are, I believe, three of them on the 12 volt block, and, several more along the firewall, including on the 24 volt bus.... Check the little orange fusible link on Gen 2 as well...

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[PeeWeeQ]

Look at all the nice bright brass....Used some carb and choke cleaner too with wire brushes, files, and lots of elbow grease. Then, I hit it with air, and more air, and more air. Should be all dried out. I reconnected and had no shorts, so now, I'm charging batteries--AGAIN--then, I'm going to go through all of the standard checks--AGAIN. What was all of that stuff? Well, the -34 says to add axle grease--AXLE GREASE!!!--to the fuse box when removing and replacing it....


If this doesn't fix it, my suspicion is, and I believe the checks will confirm, is that I will be sliding Gen 1 into the Gen 2 spot and replacing Gen 1 with the Duralast Caddy alternator from Autozone while I take Gen 2 to an expert for ANOTHER attempt at diagnosing the problem (if I can't diagnose myself).

I've rebuilt Gen 2 TWICE (once for free) and STILL no Gen 2 light. I've replaced all of the fusible links, cleaned, and cleaned, and cleaned and/or replaced bulbs, sockets, connections, wires, and both batteries--running out of options--and patience...I also ordered some (four) Diodes from Radio Shack, too, so, I'll be replacing the Gen 2 one since they are cheap and I like having new stuff when I can...

Also--another wire question--what is this blue one coming out of the big wire bundle

and running through the firewall into this thingy?

 

[cucvrus]

Blue mystery wire is for the rear heater fuel pump on M1010 units and i think also on the rear heater of the Arctic kit.