Another Ahab
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"There once was a man from Fort Towson....."
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Good question, General. Haven't measured/checked, but two might fit. I moved the posts in from the corners, mostly to be kind to the concrete, but that limits the available access.BTW, how many SEEs can fit under a FLU Farm awning?
aka Texarkana Imports by the locals"There once was a man from Fort Towson....."
I have 5 left, PM me for the SS friend and family priceGreat, I think he still has a few on Ebay. I would like a copy as I would like to add the pin out sketches on the connectors I have encountered, add in whatever wiring we can trace on the missing diagnostic harness (like the shunt resistor on the main power lead that appears to be a problem point) and add in the missing wiring related to the backhoe and hose reel (remote throttle switch for backhoe and hose reel and the remote loader bucket operator switch).
I would like to add a few accessories on mine and am considering using the diagnostic wiring harness wiring instead of new wires since they are already in place. I really cant do that until I figure out where it runs and what circuits are available.
Ultimately it would be good to get it up in the miscellaneous technical manuals section of the website. But ultimately its his call on when and if.
I like it!We use a fenced box
View attachment 654966
secured with a tie down , not a HMME (yet) but the famous, once fastest offroad forklift of the 80th. Our new box has actually pockets for the forks, that give you an extra savety.
Please put me on that (e)mailing list. My plan is to print the dash portion of the schematic out and put a sheet in the passenger side foot well.I was able to finally get the SEE wiring diagram scanned today. I think it came out very well. I am willing to email it out to those who General Hood approves to have it, or if he is done selling all his stock I can provide it to the community for public use.
Maybe you should have written that in code. Because there are moles everywhere...Please put me on that (e)mailing list. My plan is to print the dash portion of the schematic out and put a sheet in the passenger side foot well.
If the plan works, the rodents will start chewing on that piece of paper instead of the real thing.
With our luck, the rats would still eat the wiring, and use your diagram floor mat as a litter box. I still have a few original diagrams for sale, and they are laminated for easy cleaningPlease put me on that (e)mailing list. My plan is to print the dash portion of the schematic out and put a sheet in the passenger side foot well.
If the plan works, the rodents will start chewing on that piece of paper instead of the real thing.
Maybe you should have written that in code. Because there are moles everywhere...
And now, the rodents? They know.
View attachment 655188
Good point, Mr. Hood. But please remember that I already bought two of those fancy laminated things.With our luck, the rats would still eat the wiring, and use your diagram floor mat as a litter box. I still have a few original diagrams for sale, and they are laminated for easy cleaning
Got any idea when you might make the test run for the snowblower?On a more positive note, the missing fittings arrived today, so I could continue with the hose routing for the snowblower. Yeah, it looks a bit funky, but one hose had to reach farther to the rear than the other and there was no good place to stash the excess.
What remains is to make a mount for the quick disconnects and to get the hoses routed in a way that allows them to live a happy life while allowing full loader movement.
Then there's a 50/50 chance that the snowblower will turn in the correct direction, and about a 20% chance that it'll actually work as intended. Okay, maybe more than 20% since it supposedly will run on 18 gpm. View attachment 655303
Added: Happy Thanksgiving, everybody!
All the hose connections are made, so I could plug the snow blower in tomorrow. Which may not be an all bad idea, before I spend time on making mounts for the quick disconnects and route the hoses.Got any idea when you might make the test run for the snowblower?
FOD, hood fitment and securing one is on my list, too. I'm fitting a 'glass hood to a SEE, and the primary issue is that since it's a 2-layer design it doesn't seem to want to fit over the brake and clutch reservoirs.Does anyone else's hood fit like garbage? I was also thinking that it would be great if I could come up with a better way of securing it.
Thoughts?
My hood was pretty banged up and bent. After fixing it and such I did not like the loose fit either so I installed adhesive foam gasket material around the entire hood sealing area. It takes up the gaps and requires a bit of tension now to fix the hood. It is still the same attaching method but now it is tight and does not rattle. If you go a few pages back to the pic I posted with my LED headlights you can see the gasket material under the hood.FOD, hood fitment and securing one is on my list, too. I'm fitting a 'glass hood to a SEE, and the primary issue is that since it's a 2-layer design it doesn't seem to want to fit over the brake and clutch reservoirs.
Alright, that's fairly easy to fix by cutting out enough material on the inside to make it lay down correctly. Not something I'm looking forward to doing as the plasma cutter won't work, and fiberglass dust will get everywhere.
The second issue is that it has no attachment features whatsoever, but I had already grown tired of the FLU hood retaining setup and thought of an alternate method, so that doesn't bother me.
What I have in mind is making a set of clips/brackets/pins at the lower corners to keep it from sliding down and side to side.
Then a pair of Jeep hood latches, original Flatfender or rubber versions, would keep the top portion in place.
Time will tell when it'll actually happen, but I should get to it sooner that later.
Hmm, mine (not the 'glass one) requires quite a bit of fiddling to get the latches to catch and it's by no means loose. Maybe I should check for bent hardware?It takes up the gaps and requires a bit of tension now to fix the hood. It is still the same attaching method but now it is tight and does not rattle.
It is amazing how little room there is between the loader and the hood to work with. I'm also considering splitting the hood in half and using clips like you described FLU farm. It would be a **** of a lot easier to get it in and out if you only had to manhandle half of it around the loader.Hmm, mine (not the 'glass one) requires quite a bit of fiddling to get the latches to catch and it's by no means loose. Maybe I should check for bent hardware?
The other solution to getting easier hood removal and reinstallation is to have a forklift rather than a loader on the front. It is so much easier to get the hood off an HMMH, and back on again. That's what made me think of using brackets and hood latches on the SEE, rather than the factory setup. Plus it wouldn't require a special tool, should the need arise to get in there in a hurry (think fire).