FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

[Another Ahab]

"There once was a man from Fort Towson....."

 

[The FLU farm]

BTW, how many SEEs can fit under a FLU Farm awning?

Good question, General. Haven't measured/checked, but two might fit. I moved the posts in from the corners, mostly to be kind to the concrete, but that limits the available access.
Sure was nice to be able to tinker with the snowblower hydraulics a bit today, staying dry while it snowed. Stuck waiting for fittings, that I thought I had, until it can be buttoned up. With any luck, and if the weather forecast is correct, I can fling a prairie dog or two within a week.

 

[General Hood]

"There once was a man from Fort Towson....."

aka Texarkana Imports by the locals

 

[FOD]

I was able to finally get the SEE wiring diagram scanned today. I think it came out very well. I am willing to email it out to those who General Hood approves to have it, or if he is done selling all his stock I can provide it to the community for public use.

 

[peakbagger]

Great, I think he still has a few on Ebay. I would like a copy as I would like to add the pin out sketches on the connectors I have encountered, add in whatever wiring we can trace on the missing diagnostic harness (like the shunt resistor on the main power lead that appears to be a problem point) and add in the missing wiring related to the backhoe and hose reel (remote throttle switch for backhoe and hose reel and the remote loader bucket operator switch).

I would like to add a few accessories on mine and am considering using the diagnostic wiring harness wiring instead of new wires since they are already in place. I really cant do that until I figure out where it runs and what circuits are available.

Ultimately it would be good to get it up in the miscellaneous technical manuals section of the website. But ultimately its his call on when and if.

 

[General Hood]

Great, I think he still has a few on Ebay. I would like a copy as I would like to add the pin out sketches on the connectors I have encountered, add in whatever wiring we can trace on the missing diagnostic harness (like the shunt resistor on the main power lead that appears to be a problem point) and add in the missing wiring related to the backhoe and hose reel (remote throttle switch for backhoe and hose reel and the remote loader bucket operator switch).

I would like to add a few accessories on mine and am considering using the diagnostic wiring harness wiring instead of new wires since they are already in place. I really cant do that until I figure out where it runs and what circuits are available.

Ultimately it would be good to get it up in the miscellaneous technical manuals section of the website. But ultimately its his call on when and if.

I have 5 left, PM me for the SS friend and family price

 

[General Hood]

We use a fenced box
View attachment 654966
secured with a tie down , not a HMME (yet) but the famous, once fastest offroad forklift of the 80th. Our new box has actually pockets for the forks, that give you an extra savety.

I like it!

 

[The FLU farm]

I was able to finally get the SEE wiring diagram scanned today. I think it came out very well. I am willing to email it out to those who General Hood approves to have it, or if he is done selling all his stock I can provide it to the community for public use.

Please put me on that (e)mailing list. My plan is to print the dash portion of the schematic out and put a sheet in the passenger side foot well.
If the plan works, the rodents will start chewing on that piece of paper instead of the real thing.

 

[Another Ahab]

Please put me on that (e)mailing list. My plan is to print the dash portion of the schematic out and put a sheet in the passenger side foot well.
If the plan works, the rodents will start chewing on that piece of paper instead of the real thing.

Maybe you should have written that in code. Because there are moles everywhere...

And now, the rodents? They know.

 

[General Hood]

Please put me on that (e)mailing list. My plan is to print the dash portion of the schematic out and put a sheet in the passenger side foot well.
If the plan works, the rodents will start chewing on that piece of paper instead of the real thing.

With our luck, the rats would still eat the wiring, and use your diagram floor mat as a litter box. I still have a few original diagrams for sale, and they are laminated for easy cleaning

 

[General Hood]

Maybe you should have written that in code. Because there are moles everywhere...

And now, the rodents? They know.


View attachment 655188

and there goes wire 213 to the starter.

 

[The FLU farm]

With our luck, the rats would still eat the wiring, and use your diagram floor mat as a litter box. I still have a few original diagrams for sale, and they are laminated for easy cleaning

Good point, Mr. Hood. But please remember that I already bought two of those fancy laminated things.
And now that Ahab alerted the enemy (in a roundabout way) to my plan, I may have to get moleskin seat covers. If that even helps.
Might have to install a stereo in the SEE so I can play the Kinks song Rats. Loudly. 24/7.

 

[The FLU farm]

After having made it to page 96 in the re-reading of this thread, I must apologize to all of you.
There are a number of things that I promised to look into, and share the findings of, but never did. Of course, it also reminded me of a number of things that should've been done to my FLUs, which also hasn't happened.

On a more positive note, the missing fittings arrived today, so I could continue with the hose routing for the snowblower. Yeah, it looks a bit funky, but one hose had to reach farther to the rear than the other and there was no good place to stash the excess.
What remains is to make a mount for the quick disconnects and to get the hoses routed in a way that allows them to live a happy life while allowing full loader movement.
Then there's a 50/50 chance that the snowblower will turn in the correct direction, and about a 20% chance that it'll actually work as intended. Okay, maybe more than 20% since it supposedly will run on 18 gpm.

Added: Happy Thanksgiving, everybody!

 

[Another Ahab]

On a more positive note, the missing fittings arrived today, so I could continue with the hose routing for the snowblower. Yeah, it looks a bit funky, but one hose had to reach farther to the rear than the other and there was no good place to stash the excess.
What remains is to make a mount for the quick disconnects and to get the hoses routed in a way that allows them to live a happy life while allowing full loader movement.
Then there's a 50/50 chance that the snowblower will turn in the correct direction, and about a 20% chance that it'll actually work as intended. Okay, maybe more than 20% since it supposedly will run on 18 gpm. View attachment 655303

Added: Happy Thanksgiving, everybody!

Got any idea when you might make the test run for the snowblower?

And wishing you also, and all the thread readers here, a warm and blessed Thanksgiving Day tomorrow!

 

[The FLU farm]

Got any idea when you might make the test run for the snowblower?

All the hose connections are made, so I could plug the snow blower in tomorrow. Which may not be an all bad idea, before I spend time on making mounts for the quick disconnects and route the hoses.
It'll be a dry run (assuming the connections don't leak) since there's no snow on the ground. Watch out, prairie dogs!

 

[FOD]

Does anyone else's hood fit like garbage? I pretty much have to step on mine to get it to lock down and even then there are large gaps on the ends. My suspicion is that the hood is not the original. I was also thinking that it would be great if I could come up with a better way of securing it. I am only able to get it up to about 40 full throttle so it's not like it will fly off from wind speed. The only real concern would be off road jolting.

Something I'm considering is a sliding rail system similar to a cabinet drawer. It may not be hermetically sealed but the way I see it there are already large gaps at the ends anyway. I could then easily remove it solo without worrying about damaging the reservoirs and dP switch.

I'm currently working through replacing pin holed brake lines and have frequently had to remove the hood to check or refill the reservoir (which sucks, especially solo).

Thoughts?

 

[The FLU farm]

Does anyone else's hood fit like garbage? I was also thinking that it would be great if I could come up with a better way of securing it.
Thoughts?

FOD, hood fitment and securing one is on my list, too. I'm fitting a 'glass hood to a SEE, and the primary issue is that since it's a 2-layer design it doesn't seem to want to fit over the brake and clutch reservoirs.
Alright, that's fairly easy to fix by cutting out enough material on the inside to make it lay down correctly. Not something I'm looking forward to doing as the plasma cutter won't work, and fiberglass dust will get everywhere.

The second issue is that it has no attachment features whatsoever, but I had already grown tired of the FLU hood retaining setup and thought of an alternate method, so that doesn't bother me.
What I have in mind is making a set of clips/brackets/pins at the lower corners to keep it from sliding down and side to side.
Then a pair of Jeep hood latches, original Flatfender or rubber versions, would keep the top portion in place.
Time will tell when it'll actually happen, but I should get to it sooner that later.

 

[911joeblow]

FOD, hood fitment and securing one is on my list, too. I'm fitting a 'glass hood to a SEE, and the primary issue is that since it's a 2-layer design it doesn't seem to want to fit over the brake and clutch reservoirs.
Alright, that's fairly easy to fix by cutting out enough material on the inside to make it lay down correctly. Not something I'm looking forward to doing as the plasma cutter won't work, and fiberglass dust will get everywhere.

The second issue is that it has no attachment features whatsoever, but I had already grown tired of the FLU hood retaining setup and thought of an alternate method, so that doesn't bother me.
What I have in mind is making a set of clips/brackets/pins at the lower corners to keep it from sliding down and side to side.
Then a pair of Jeep hood latches, original Flatfender or rubber versions, would keep the top portion in place.
Time will tell when it'll actually happen, but I should get to it sooner that later.

My hood was pretty banged up and bent. After fixing it and such I did not like the loose fit either so I installed adhesive foam gasket material around the entire hood sealing area. It takes up the gaps and requires a bit of tension now to fix the hood. It is still the same attaching method but now it is tight and does not rattle. If you go a few pages back to the pic I posted with my LED headlights you can see the gasket material under the hood.

 

[The FLU farm]

It takes up the gaps and requires a bit of tension now to fix the hood. It is still the same attaching method but now it is tight and does not rattle.

Hmm, mine (not the 'glass one) requires quite a bit of fiddling to get the latches to catch and it's by no means loose. Maybe I should check for bent hardware?
The other solution to getting easier hood removal and reinstallation is to have a forklift rather than a loader on the front. It is so much easier to get the hood off an HMMH, and back on again. That's what made me think of using brackets and hood latches on the SEE, rather than the factory setup. Plus it wouldn't require a special tool, should the need arise to get in there in a hurry (think fire).

 

[FOD]

Hmm, mine (not the 'glass one) requires quite a bit of fiddling to get the latches to catch and it's by no means loose. Maybe I should check for bent hardware?
The other solution to getting easier hood removal and reinstallation is to have a forklift rather than a loader on the front. It is so much easier to get the hood off an HMMH, and back on again. That's what made me think of using brackets and hood latches on the SEE, rather than the factory setup. Plus it wouldn't require a special tool, should the need arise to get in there in a hurry (think fire).

It is amazing how little room there is between the loader and the hood to work with. I'm also considering splitting the hood in half and using clips like you described FLU farm. It would be a **** of a lot easier to get it in and out if you only had to manhandle half of it around the loader.

Happy Thanksgiving everyone.