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Negative Battery Cable Design 002/003A

Light in the Dark

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Drill two holes in the frame, and mount this up using integrated star washer nuts (like everything else bolted to the frame for grounding purposes).
 

Kahles56

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that switch would make a good switch for the ground line on a generator that does dual duty in field and at the house.
For those wondering what I am talking about reference the sticky about wiring to a house.
 

Guyfang

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Light,

I like that!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There is a good idea. We had such switches in our wheeled and tracked equipment in HAWK. I always felt it was a super idea.
 

Light in the Dark

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My only thought is "That's expensive!"
It is expensive, but it appears to be made in a superior way (internal height adjustment of contacts versus side to side rotation switches). It does not advertise as ruggedized, but its inherently vibration resistant due to how it works... which on an 002A isn't the worst thing in the world! They are also touted as waterproof (I assume IP65 but they might be 67... I doubt it though.)... so all around it is a better product. The less expensive model might be fine for some... nothing riles me up more than doing things twice though... especially spending money for the same problem more than once. :)
 
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Triple Jim

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For the dozen or so times I run my 003A in a year, I think I'd hang a cheap wrench from a leather strap near the battery tray and remove the ground cable to disconnect the battery after running, before I'd buy that switch. On the other hand, if I ran it weekly or more often, a high quality switch would start looking like a good option.
 

Light in the Dark

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Yeah the breakout is not necessary for my purposes. And I might elect to just replace the cable from the starter back to NEG with a post terminal connection and I'll just undo it each time I need do.
 

Light in the Dark

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Just picked up a $5 disconnect like the OEM and cut the suppressor out of #1 and she runs again. Not what I wanted to do, but what the budget allows at the moment.
 

doghead

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Just picked up a $5 disconnect like the OEM and cut the suppressor out of #1 and she runs again. Not what I wanted to do, but what the budget allows at the moment.
Just to be clear, there was no disconnect on these units originally.
 

Light in the Dark

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Good to know (Bad assumption on my part). Maybe I should source an OEM negative lead them with terminal on it (or find the terminal adapter like on my POS lead) and just remove the disconnect down the line.
 
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