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Oh no! Please say it isn't so. How on earth will you know if the filter gets dirty? Look at it?!?I must admit I never hooked up the high air filter differential pressure alarm switch.
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Oh no! Please say it isn't so. How on earth will you know if the filter gets dirty? Look at it?!?I must admit I never hooked up the high air filter differential pressure alarm switch.
I only have two that are damaged at this point, but since I still run Michelins on all but one FLU chances are good I'll have more wounded ones by spring.That would be fun. I had gotten two extra michelins before I got these. With two blown out, I have three good spares.
Are you taking requests?I only have two that are damaged at this point, but since I still run Michelins on all but one FLU chances are good I'll have more wounded ones by spring.
What caliber would you prefer for the shootout? Not that it really matters as long as it's above .22 shorts.
I run both the outer and inner filter, I think most folks just run the outer. Luckily NH dirt tends not to be dusty so it never makes it to the filterOh no! Please say it isn't so. How on earth will you know if the filter gets dirty? Look at it?!?
The PTO should not be dependant on the electrical, the only electrical thing when you engage should be the light on the dash to let you know that it's on. Which fuse in which fuse box? They are mostly all white fuses.I finally got my SEE started and running. Engine runs smoothly. When I engage the pto for the back equipment I go through a fuse for the dash panel. It is currently a white fuse and the red one doesn't fare any better. What should I use?
The tilting cylinder gushes oil when lowering the backhoe. Does anyone know if this is a Case part and have a part number?
The high/low/reverse stick on the transmission doesn't want to engage and I can't shift it. Any thoughts on what may be the issue? Do I need transmission oil or is there a bigger problem?
Need more info on your high/low/rev shifter issue. does it not want to go in gear? does it feel sloppy like you are stirring soup? That would be shifter cup bushing. Is it stuck in gear?I finally got my SEE started and running. Engine runs smoothly. When I engage the pto for the back equipment I go through a fuse for the dash panel. It is currently a white fuse and the red one doesn't fare any better. What should I use?
The tilting cylinder gushes oil when lowering the backhoe. Does anyone know if this is a Case part and have a part number?
The high/low/reverse stick on the transmission doesn't want to engage and I can't shift it. Any thoughts on what may be the issue? Do I need transmission oil or is there a bigger problem?
Is the shifter problem after you lowered the cab? Could it be something jammed against the shifter under the cab? I'm still betting on the bushing!!I was hoping somebody would already know the answer which is why I asked. I already had the cab tilted using brackets that I made to remove the engine to repair a large hole in the oil pan. After buttoning everything up I was hoping that I wouldn't have to take 50 steps backwards to fix this new issue.
I assure you I am no mere Shadetree Mechanic. A metric pulley from Germany would have set me back $800. However, a local pulley shop had an American pulley that I was able to machine into the part I needed for about $10.00.
I can't find the section on POS bleeding in my manual... I couldn't help myselfHOW DO YOU GET TO THE SLAVE CYLINDER BLEEDER to bleed the POS ???????, I can see the bleeder but can not get to it.
It does not want to go in or out of gear. Also, when shifting with the 1-4 lever, that pops out of gear when I release the clutch. If I hold the shifter in gear and release the clutch, the Mog tries to move and I get a reading on the speedometer that is faster than I am going. Now, when I got the Mog, a bunch of bolts were missing on the drive shaft going to the rear axle. I'm worried that Uncle Sam left out more parts and the hardest thing to find or reverse engineer is something that is not there.Need more info on your high/low/rev shifter issue. does it not want to go in gear? does it feel sloppy like you are stirring soup? That would be shifter cup bushing. Is it stuck in gear?
Check to make sure if the hyd. cooling fan switch is off, that could be why the fuse is blowing as well. That is easy to fix.
By the way, I'm shipping you that free clutch pedal switch in the morning.
You will need a 9mm wrench and it is possible to reach the bleeder from the drivers side.HOW DO YOU GET TO THE SLAVE CYLINDER BLEEDER to bleed the POS ???????, I can see the bleeder but can not get to it.
HMMMM... sounds suspiciously like the shifter cup bushing.. does the stick move around like it is in neutral when you push and hold it in a gear? Hold the stick in any gear you want then see if you can still move it aroundIt does not want to go in or out of gear. Also, when shifting with the 1-4 lever, that pops out of gear when I release the clutch. If I hold the shifter in gear and release the clutch, the Mog tries to move and I get a reading on the speedometer that is faster than I am going. Now, when I got the Mog, a bunch of bolts were missing on the drive shaft going to the rear axle. I'm worried that Uncle Sam left out more parts and the hardest thing to find or reverse engineer is something that is not there.
A friend that lives nearby has a few, so that could be arranged. If we pay for the ammo I'm sure he'd be happy to partake in putting some Michelins out of their misery.- Can we possibly get some .50's...
And be sure there's sound on the video?!
Yeah, in your case it'd probably be hard for a rock to find its way into the intake tract even without any filtration. I also run both filters, and in a fairly dust free area, but good filtration (be it for air or fluids) certainly can't hurt.I run both the outer and inner filter, I think most folks just run the outer. Luckily NH dirt tends not to be dusty so it never makes it to the filter
We can go any caliber. But my .308 loves punching holes in stuff!I only have two that are damaged at this point, but since I still run Michelins on all but one FLU chances are good I'll have more wounded ones by spring.
What caliber would you prefer for the shootout? Not that it really matters as long as it's above .22 shorts.
A friend that lives nearby has a few, so that could be arranged. If we pay for the ammo I'm sure he'd be happy to partake in putting some Michelins out of their misery.
And you know I don't have video capabilities. Okay, there's a video button on my camera, so it has them. I don't.
Speaking of capabilities, part of today's activities was to put the care package from Bel-Metric to use and replace the tubing between the fuel valve and strainer.View attachment 667445
That naturally meant a test session afterwards to find out if there still were air leaks in the system. Ended up pushing a snow bank more into the sunshine with the backhoe.
For someone who can barely dig in normal fashion (and hasn't used the backhoe in months) it was interesting to use it to push away rather than pull towards me.
Did the new section of fuel line help? Yes, the SEE ran a LOT longer, but still sucks the strainer dry eventually. View attachment 667446 The tempting solution is to get a bigger strainer, but now the main suspects are the strainer's seal (an O-ring in this case) and the connection going into the valve.
That side isn't crooked like the other side was, but that doesn't mean it's put together correctly. If that doesn't do it, the tank will have to be dropped, to get to the hose connections on top. Or, which is even more tempting than installing a larger strainer, install an electric pump.
Lastly, one odd thing that happened when pushing some of that snow bank with the loader was that the bucket curled up by itself when driving into the side of the snow pile. That has never happened with the original SEE. The bucket must've been curled up slightly, and I never did lift the loader, just pushed. But given the choice, I rather have a loader that can lift and hold the front off the ground than the lame down forces of the original SEE's loader.
Okay, that works for me. Cheaper ammo, too.We can go any caliber. But my .308 loves punching holes in stuff!
Good point. I need to look into that possibility, too. And check what the fuel level is...I've bled out gallons by now.I had my return and pickups reversed in my tank. Would run great till the tank went to 3/4 full, then would die. Might be something to look at.
A friend that lives nearby has a few, so that could be arranged. If we pay for the ammo I'm sure he'd be happy to partake in putting some Michelins out of their misery.
Somebody has some "disposable" cash...@ 4 bucks a crack, gets very expensive
And worth every penny!!
Would a fuel/water separator be better? I was thinking of swapping out the strainer with a small Racor on mineA friend that lives nearby has a few, so that could be arranged. If we pay for the ammo I'm sure he'd be happy to partake in putting some Michelins out of their misery.
And you know I don't have video capabilities. Okay, there's a video button on my camera, so it has them. I don't.
Speaking of capabilities, part of today's activities was to put the care package from Bel-Metric to use and replace the tubing between the fuel valve and strainer.View attachment 667445
That naturally meant a test session afterwards to find out if there still were air leaks in the system. Ended up pushing a snow bank more into the sunshine with the backhoe.
For someone who can barely dig in normal fashion (and hasn't used the backhoe in months) it was interesting to use it to push away rather than pull towards me.
Did the new section of fuel line help? Yes, the SEE ran a LOT longer, but still sucks the strainer dry eventually. View attachment 667446 The tempting solution is to get a bigger strainer, but now the main suspects are the strainer's seal (an O-ring in this case) and the connection going into the valve.
That side isn't crooked like the other side was, but that doesn't mean it's put together correctly. If that doesn't do it, the tank will have to be dropped, to get to the hose connections on top. Or, which is even more tempting than installing a larger strainer, install an electric pump.
Lastly, one odd thing that happened when pushing some of that snow bank with the loader was that the bucket curled up by itself when driving into the side of the snow pile. That has never happened with the original SEE. The bucket must've been curled up slightly, and I never did lift the loader, just pushed. But given the choice, I rather have a loader that can lift and hold the front off the ground than the lame down forces of the original SEE's loader.
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