• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

FLU419 SEE HMMH HME Owners group

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
That would be fun. I had gotten two extra michelins before I got these. With two blown out, I have three good spares.
I only have two that are damaged at this point, but since I still run Michelins on all but one FLU chances are good I'll have more wounded ones by spring.
What caliber would you prefer for the shootout? Not that it really matters as long as it's above .22 shorts.
 

Another Ahab

Well-known member
17,999
4,556
113
Location
Alexandria, VA
I only have two that are damaged at this point, but since I still run Michelins on all but one FLU chances are good I'll have more wounded ones by spring.
What caliber would you prefer for the shootout? Not that it really matters as long as it's above .22 shorts.
Are you taking requests?

- Can we possibly get some .50's...

And be sure there's sound on the video?!
 

Bikers33

New member
129
1
0
Location
British Columbia
I finally got my SEE started and running. Engine runs smoothly. When I engage the pto for the back equipment I go through a fuse for the dash panel. It is currently a white fuse and the red one doesn't fare any better. What should I use?
The tilting cylinder gushes oil when lowering the backhoe. Does anyone know if this is a Case part and have a part number?
The high/low/reverse stick on the transmission doesn't want to engage and I can't shift it. Any thoughts on what may be the issue? Do I need transmission oil or is there a bigger problem?
The PTO should not be dependant on the electrical, the only electrical thing when you engage should be the light on the dash to let you know that it's on. Which fuse in which fuse box? They are mostly all white fuses.
 

73m819

Rock = older than dirt , GA. MAFIA , Dirty
Steel Soldiers Supporter
In Memorial
12,195
325
0
Location
gainesville, ga.
HOW DO YOU GET TO THE SLAVE CYLINDER BLEEDER to bleed the POS ???????, I can see the bleeder but can not get to it.
 

Bikers33

New member
129
1
0
Location
British Columbia
I finally got my SEE started and running. Engine runs smoothly. When I engage the pto for the back equipment I go through a fuse for the dash panel. It is currently a white fuse and the red one doesn't fare any better. What should I use?
The tilting cylinder gushes oil when lowering the backhoe. Does anyone know if this is a Case part and have a part number?
The high/low/reverse stick on the transmission doesn't want to engage and I can't shift it. Any thoughts on what may be the issue? Do I need transmission oil or is there a bigger problem?
Need more info on your high/low/rev shifter issue. does it not want to go in gear? does it feel sloppy like you are stirring soup? That would be shifter cup bushing. Is it stuck in gear?
Check the hyd. cooling fan circuit, that could be why the fuse is blowing as well. That is easy to fix.
By the way, I'm shipping you that free clutch pedal switch in the morning.
 
Last edited:

Bikers33

New member
129
1
0
Location
British Columbia
I was hoping somebody would already know the answer which is why I asked. I already had the cab tilted using brackets that I made to remove the engine to repair a large hole in the oil pan. After buttoning everything up I was hoping that I wouldn't have to take 50 steps backwards to fix this new issue.

I assure you I am no mere Shadetree Mechanic. A metric pulley from Germany would have set me back $800. However, a local pulley shop had an American pulley that I was able to machine into the part I needed for about $10.00.
Is the shifter problem after you lowered the cab? Could it be something jammed against the shifter under the cab? I'm still betting on the bushing!!
 

Foxyjosh

Member
53
0
6
Location
Northeast /OH
Need more info on your high/low/rev shifter issue. does it not want to go in gear? does it feel sloppy like you are stirring soup? That would be shifter cup bushing. Is it stuck in gear?
Check to make sure if the hyd. cooling fan switch is off, that could be why the fuse is blowing as well. That is easy to fix.
By the way, I'm shipping you that free clutch pedal switch in the morning.
It does not want to go in or out of gear. Also, when shifting with the 1-4 lever, that pops out of gear when I release the clutch. If I hold the shifter in gear and release the clutch, the Mog tries to move and I get a reading on the speedometer that is faster than I am going. Now, when I got the Mog, a bunch of bolts were missing on the drive shaft going to the rear axle. I'm worried that Uncle Sam left out more parts and the hardest thing to find or reverse engineer is something that is not there.
 

Bikers33

New member
129
1
0
Location
British Columbia
It does not want to go in or out of gear. Also, when shifting with the 1-4 lever, that pops out of gear when I release the clutch. If I hold the shifter in gear and release the clutch, the Mog tries to move and I get a reading on the speedometer that is faster than I am going. Now, when I got the Mog, a bunch of bolts were missing on the drive shaft going to the rear axle. I'm worried that Uncle Sam left out more parts and the hardest thing to find or reverse engineer is something that is not there.
HMMMM... sounds suspiciously like the shifter cup bushing.. does the stick move around like it is in neutral when you push and hold it in a gear? Hold the stick in any gear you want then see if you can still move it around
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
- Can we possibly get some .50's...

And be sure there's sound on the video?!
A friend that lives nearby has a few, so that could be arranged. If we pay for the ammo I'm sure he'd be happy to partake in putting some Michelins out of their misery.
And you know I don't have video capabilities. Okay, there's a video button on my camera, so it has them. I don't.

Speaking of capabilities, part of today's activities was to put the care package from Bel-Metric to use and replace the tubing between the fuel valve and strainer.DSCN0166[1].jpg
That naturally meant a test session afterwards to find out if there still were air leaks in the system. Ended up pushing a snow bank more into the sunshine with the backhoe.
For someone who can barely dig in normal fashion (and hasn't used the backhoe in months) it was interesting to use it to push away rather than pull towards me.

Did the new section of fuel line help? Yes, the SEE ran a LOT longer, but still sucks the strainer dry eventually. DSCN0165[1].jpg The tempting solution is to get a bigger strainer, but now the main suspects are the strainer's seal (an O-ring in this case) and the connection going into the valve.
That side isn't crooked like the other side was, but that doesn't mean it's put together correctly. If that doesn't do it, the tank will have to be dropped, to get to the hose connections on top. Or, which is even more tempting than installing a larger strainer, install an electric pump.

Lastly, one odd thing that happened when pushing some of that snow bank with the loader was that the bucket curled up by itself when driving into the side of the snow pile. That has never happened with the original SEE. The bucket must've been curled up slightly, and I never did lift the loader, just pushed. But given the choice, I rather have a loader that can lift and hold the front off the ground than the lame down forces of the original SEE's loader.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,342
1,329
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I run both the outer and inner filter, I think most folks just run the outer. Luckily NH dirt tends not to be dusty so it never makes it to the filter
Yeah, in your case it'd probably be hard for a rock to find its way into the intake tract even without any filtration. I also run both filters, and in a fairly dust free area, but good filtration (be it for air or fluids) certainly can't hurt.
 

jstark45xd

New member
27
0
1
Location
Gabbs, Nv
I only have two that are damaged at this point, but since I still run Michelins on all but one FLU chances are good I'll have more wounded ones by spring.
What caliber would you prefer for the shootout? Not that it really matters as long as it's above .22 shorts.
We can go any caliber. But my .308 loves punching holes in stuff!
 

911joeblow

Active member
508
68
28
Location
Utah
I had my return and pickups reversed in my tank. Would run great till the tank went to 3/4 full, then would die. Might be something to look at.

A friend that lives nearby has a few, so that could be arranged. If we pay for the ammo I'm sure he'd be happy to partake in putting some Michelins out of their misery.
And you know I don't have video capabilities. Okay, there's a video button on my camera, so it has them. I don't.

Speaking of capabilities, part of today's activities was to put the care package from Bel-Metric to use and replace the tubing between the fuel valve and strainer.View attachment 667445
That naturally meant a test session afterwards to find out if there still were air leaks in the system. Ended up pushing a snow bank more into the sunshine with the backhoe.
For someone who can barely dig in normal fashion (and hasn't used the backhoe in months) it was interesting to use it to push away rather than pull towards me.

Did the new section of fuel line help? Yes, the SEE ran a LOT longer, but still sucks the strainer dry eventually. View attachment 667446 The tempting solution is to get a bigger strainer, but now the main suspects are the strainer's seal (an O-ring in this case) and the connection going into the valve.
That side isn't crooked like the other side was, but that doesn't mean it's put together correctly. If that doesn't do it, the tank will have to be dropped, to get to the hose connections on top. Or, which is even more tempting than installing a larger strainer, install an electric pump.

Lastly, one odd thing that happened when pushing some of that snow bank with the loader was that the bucket curled up by itself when driving into the side of the snow pile. That has never happened with the original SEE. The bucket must've been curled up slightly, and I never did lift the loader, just pushed. But given the choice, I rather have a loader that can lift and hold the front off the ground than the lame down forces of the original SEE's loader.
 

Bikers33

New member
129
1
0
Location
British Columbia
A friend that lives nearby has a few, so that could be arranged. If we pay for the ammo I'm sure he'd be happy to partake in putting some Michelins out of their misery.
And you know I don't have video capabilities. Okay, there's a video button on my camera, so it has them. I don't.

Speaking of capabilities, part of today's activities was to put the care package from Bel-Metric to use and replace the tubing between the fuel valve and strainer.View attachment 667445
That naturally meant a test session afterwards to find out if there still were air leaks in the system. Ended up pushing a snow bank more into the sunshine with the backhoe.
For someone who can barely dig in normal fashion (and hasn't used the backhoe in months) it was interesting to use it to push away rather than pull towards me.

Did the new section of fuel line help? Yes, the SEE ran a LOT longer, but still sucks the strainer dry eventually. View attachment 667446 The tempting solution is to get a bigger strainer, but now the main suspects are the strainer's seal (an O-ring in this case) and the connection going into the valve.
That side isn't crooked like the other side was, but that doesn't mean it's put together correctly. If that doesn't do it, the tank will have to be dropped, to get to the hose connections on top. Or, which is even more tempting than installing a larger strainer, install an electric pump.

Lastly, one odd thing that happened when pushing some of that snow bank with the loader was that the bucket curled up by itself when driving into the side of the snow pile. That has never happened with the original SEE. The bucket must've been curled up slightly, and I never did lift the loader, just pushed. But given the choice, I rather have a loader that can lift and hold the front off the ground than the lame down forces of the original SEE's loader.
Would a fuel/water separator be better? I was thinking of swapping out the strainer with a small Racor on mine
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks