mep-802a no start from main start switch

[Lawman21]

View attachment 683585
Without any more info this would be first thing I would check to see if I had 24VDC to both sides of circuit breaker indicated in drawing. Should be fully depressed. Also there is fuse directly below that may be missing/blown.

That breaker is right inside the front panel correct? It doesn't appear tripped. Gen set 1 worked fine. Until under load. Then IT tripped I reset it and now the gen won't start the switch.keep hearing about K2?

 

[Dwnorton1]

That is where control voltage come into control cubicle. possible fault module is giving you issue, but it is bypassed during start up sequence so it should crank, but will not stay running unless battleshort is flipped bypassing protection circuits/

 

[Daybreak]

That breaker is right inside the front panel correct? It doesn't appear tripped. Gen set 1 worked fine. Until under load. Then IT tripped I reset it and now the gen won't start the switch.keep hearing about K2?

Howdy,
Which tripped? under load? Where was the load connected and how much?

 

[Lawman21]

Circuit breaker tripped under Load at about 25%

 

[Daybreak]

Circuit breaker tripped under Load at about 25%

Howdy,
Convenience receptacle is 10amp max.

Load was connected to lugs? 120v only? 120/240v? 3 phase? type of load?

Any of the idiot lights come on? (fault panel lights)

 

[customload]

If you check the breaker and everything is good, it may be the solenoid. Check to make sure the kill solenoid on the side of the engine is not stuck in the out or kill position.
Make sure your red knob is out on the main panel.

 

[Guyfang]

If I may, there are way too many people with problems here in this thread. Or maybe my old moth eaten brain cant separate it all.

Customload and Lawman21, please start your own threads. That way just YOU get some valuable help. Just for you. You don't have to try and separate it from someone else's problem. The symptoms APPEAR the same, but could have completely different reasons behind them. You can at the same time monitor someone else's thread, but at the end of the day, you get better help with your own thread. That way we can tailor suggestions and questions, to your problem.

And get to know your set. Study the books. The "kill solenoid" on the side of the engine, is I assume, L5, the fuel solenoid. The "red knob" is the S17, emergency Off switch.

Way back at the start of this rodeo, I suggested that you start with the trouble shooting diagram, "Cranks, but will not start". Up till now, no one has replied. Have you both tried that? If so, what did you come up with?

 

[customload]

Hi Guyfang
I thought I had replied to the man in his thread. To me a thread is the string mom used to sow up the holes in my jeans. I'm not knowledgable as to how to start a thread. I just tried to help him like you do. You were a help to me months ago. If I remember right, I replaced the s-17 solenoid the one that sent the power to the starter solenoid. I admit, I threw parts at it till it ran. I'm dealing with a new problem now, got an 803A that I think has an injector issue, the motor runs, but gets a funny harmonic moan to it and the exhaust has a spit-spit-spit-spit to it which makes me think there is an cylinder that is not firing. Got an older 803-a that runs like a champ. The newest one in the group has the issues.

 

[Guyfang]

If you can get a heat sensor, (help me out people! I cant remember the english word right now!) to read the temperature of the exhaust manifold, you can quickly determine if a cylinder is firing. You can also get a compression checker, (there are good ones that are not real pricy. It should have a hold function on it to record the compression).

If its not firing, it can only be because the injector pump or injector is not working, or no compression. Is the oil smelling like fuel? Do you have more oil in the crankcase then normal? Both signs of no compression. Bad rings or maybe valves.

Been in germany too long. Getting old. Can't even speak english anymore.

To start a thread, go to FORUM, at the top of the page, and click on it. Scroll down till you get to Auxiliary Equipment. Click on it. On the left side someplace, should be a button to click on, "Start a new thread". Wahla! You have started a thread. Give it a name to bring instant recognition. Like "MEP-803A will not run right". Or Lawman21 could call his, "MEP-803A Will not start". That way everyone knows the Who, What and Why. People who have had the same problem jump right in and start helping. I am not, (well, maybe a tad) being critical. It just gets you better help.

 

[DieselAddict]

Hi Guyfang
I thought I had replied to the man in his thread. To me a thread is the string mom used to sow up the holes in my jeans. I'm not knowledgable as to how to start a thread.

Check out the attached image for the location of the button to add a new thread.

 

[gnrr53]

Hello,
I am new and have been reading all the messages hoping to find the answer, I did not. This is what I did find though, At the diagnostic plug I have
zero volts on pin K and zero volts on pin V and 0.8 volts on pin Z. The 802 dead cranks but will not crank from main switch. I have one thru the manual
trouble shooting but I have not found an illustration of where the components are located, is there one? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[Guyfang]

Is this set new to you? Have you ever seen it run right? Have you downloaded the TM's, and maybe looked at them? Can you work with schematics? If you look next to most components, there should be printed the component ID, like S1, or FU1. Have you started with the troubleshooting diagram, in the -12 TM first?

The three places you measured on J1 are meaningless for starting purposes. When the set will not start at S1, and will turn over at S10, you need to start troubleshooting at S1. If you look at the schematic, you will find the S1 circuit schedule. The schedule tells you what contacts should be made when the S1 is in each position. Look at the start position. When the S1 is in the Start position, you should have 24 volts at the common pins, (pins 2,4,6,8 ) and most importantly, pins 3 and 7. Pin 3 is for all the circuits needed to RUN the set. Pin 7 is the one to START the set. So, after following the proper set up procedure in the -12 manual, place the S1 in the start position and see what your voltage is at pins 3 & 7 is.

 

[gnrr53]

802 no crank

Good morning,
I have downloaded the manual and have gone over them for a couple days. I have followed the troubleshooting
section as best as I could figure it. I bought this from Iron Planet, it was described as starting and producing
power. I talked to the Iron Planet man that checks the equipment and he said he would never miss represent
something.
Voltage--- I have 24 V at S-1 Pin 7 & 3. I have 24 V to K-12. While trying to start, I had 24 V going to K-16
but nothing out, no voltage to S7 Pin 1.
I changed K-16 with K-20 and the unit would crank from S-1 for about 1.5 seconds. I needed to turn S-1 to
the off position before it would crank again but would only crank for a couple revolutions and quit.
Where do I go from here.

Thanks
Mark
ps. This unit has 22 hours and I have never been around one before.

 

[Guyfang]

1. If I understand you correctly, the set would not crank before you changed the K16 and K20.

2. When you hold the S1 in the start position, you have 24 volts at pins 3 and 7.

3. If you turn the S1 to the preheat position, you should get voltage at S1, pin 1, but no place else, so that's normal.

4. Do you get an idiot light come on after the starter stops turning?

Try this. Place S1 in the off position. Push the A2, (fault indicator reset button in, and hold it it, do not let it go. Then turn the S1 to the start position. If the engine starts, flip up the S7, (battle short switch) and then let the A2 button go. Will the engine run? DO you get an idiot light?

 

[gnrr53]

I do not know why but I had to reseat K-16 to get it to crank. If I went inside to look over the TS sheets and then come back outside I would have to reseat K-16 for it to crank over but t would not start. Now for the "just how dumb can I be" statement. Putting diesel in the tank does wonders. Starts right up,
shut it down, starts right up, no reseating any relays.

Thanks for your input and your harping to follow the trouble shooting guide.

 

[Guyfang]

Tell me, did you let a low fuel light?

Also, if the set didn't turn over before switching the relays, and did after, you might have a relay that sticks.

But I am really interested if you got a low fuel light?

 

[gnrr53]

I did not notice any fault lights, that's not saying one was not on, I just did not notice any.

 

[Light in the Dark]

When you press the reset button... do all the lights come on? Lets make sure all of the lights are functioning.

 

[gnrr53]

Yes, All the fault lights come on. I have run into another problem, I was going to let it run for an hour or so just to get the feeling that it is dependable and
it quit after 6 minutes and would not restart. I noticed that I did not hear the fuel pump running when S-1 was in the (run/prime) position. I waited about
15 minutes and tried it again and I could hear the pump running and the unit started and ran for another 5 minutes before quitting. I went through this
routine 4 more times. Does anyone know where I can get a fuel pump?

 

[Light in the Dark]

Is your pump the square style, or the round style? Have you changed the fuel filter on this machine? Or run any sort of fuel system cleaner (Seafoam, etc) through the set? How about the fuel tank... has it been drained and cleaned? Your pump might be fine... you could have a clogged fuel system, or even a dirty tank (and the fuel flow is stopping due to debris in the tank).