Looking for Arizona resident that knows the M1009 CUCV

[Paycheck]

I could use some help I'm past frustrated ready to cut my losses and part this POS out. Gen2 light was on so I replaced alternator on passenger side now gen1 light is on motor doesn't sound rite, took it around the block shut it off and now it just clicks from the relay under the dash I live in Buckeye,Az

 

[Tinstar]

Charge your battery's for sure.
Do you have a digital voltmeter?
Have you read the stickies and looked at the troubleshooting guide?
Also read through the old threads. Tons of information there.

Tackle one thing at a time.
It is worth it

Plenty of guys here to help.

 

[richingalveston]

did you replace it with an isolated ground alt?

 

[Paycheck]

Yes sir

 

[Paycheck]

Everything is hooked up correct but is still responding like non isolated ground alternator is is installed fire works when I attach battery cables

 

[richingalveston]

there really is not much on the truck to cause it to run bad after changing an alt. unless the fuel shutoff valve is not opening all the way. So look at each issue separately first. it is very likely the other alt failed on its own. If the truck has fuel, once it starts the only thing stopping it is lack of fuel nothing electrical except the switch on the ip will interfere with the operation of the motor. Low voltage to this solenoid can make it bounce and thus you are turning it on and off quickly which will cause it to run bad and also damage the solenoid if allowed to happen for to long.

a little history on the truck and pictures will allow us to help you out. These trucks when you get them pretty much need everything replaced if someone before you has not already done that. And the problem with somebody doing it before you is that they will mess it up more.

Have you done Dog head mod.
disconnect pink wire from IP and run a jumper from front battery you should here it click open and shut. if it is operating, leave jumper on and see if it runs ok. if so, something in electrical system on the 12volt side is dragging your voltage down and most likely bad diodes and rectifier in alt1

pull alt one and have it tested and get the batteries on charge and topped off and possibly tested also. A dead cell or two in battery can cause the voltage to drag just like bad alt.
batteries can have dead cells and still pass voltage and appear to be operational.

good luck
Rich

 

[richingalveston]

fireworks means you got heavy load or dead short on the cables before hooking it up.

disconnect alt 1 and see if you still have fire works. your alt one may have shorted

 

[richingalveston]

just thought of it.
disconnect your starter. you may have gotten starter run on which causes dead short in starter. the starter staying connected may have caused the truck to run funny.

the doghead mod prevents this issue from happening.

 

[Paycheck]

Yesterday I got the new isolated ground alternator installed then gen1 lit up drove around the block and cut it off tried to restart and relay clicks so does starter pulled both alternators had bench test performed and all check out good reinstalled filling my pictures and now it responding by throwing sparks it is behaving as if a no isolated ground alternator is installed one thing I noticed is I had the red wire that followed fire wall hooked to positive terminal so I switched to the negative terminal with the same resolution

 

[Paycheck]

That's what I was thinking also so I had it bench tested all came back good

 

[richingalveston]

you need to start disconnecting things until you can connect the cables without sparks. you need to find the short or where the load is coming from. Maybe someone did not get the alt built right. when on the bench was it tested that the case was isolated. have you checked it for continuity between the stud and case?

 

[Paycheck]

I don't know how to do do that
Thinking next month having a portable mechanic come check it

 

[Paycheck]

I know how to disconnect I mean continuity test

 

[Mos68x]

If you were a lot closer I'd come give ya a hand but I ain't got the money to drive that far right now. There's a couple people down there in the Phoenix area that might be able to help out though.

 

[richingalveston]

you need a multimeter and a few lessons on how to use it if you own a cucv.
The meter has a continuity function which will allow you to test the alternator. you need to make sure that all of the connecting studs on the back of the alt are not connected to the case. all they have to do is miss one isolation washer when putting it together and you will not have an isolated ground alt.

bench testing will only show that it puts out power. A simple meter is all that is needed to check to make sure the case is actually isolated from the internal parts.

 

[Paycheck]

Going to pick one up after my surgery tomorrow

 

[doghead]

Have you recently experienced a starter run-on?

 

[someoldmoose]

Sorry if I missed it. Did you disconnect the starter from the electrical system? Use a short bolt and nut to connect the wires as if they were connected to the starter and isolate with insulation. ( wrap a rag around the connection ) Now try putting the battery cable back on. No sparks ? R & R starter. The clue for me is the clicking when you try to restart. I think your starter might be staying engaged and becoming a generator. If so, that is what killed your alternator(s), may well have wrecked your batteries and yer lucky it didn't burn the whole thing down. A friend of mine almost lost his small airplane when this happened to him IN FLIGHT ! The cabin filled with smoke and he barely got it back on the ground safely. Fried all his avionics and the charging system was a mess.

You can try to check voltage when it's running, if you can get it running. Rev it a bit and watch the voltmeter. If starter sticking is the cause your voltage will rise in relation to engine speed and will probably go well above 30 volts pretty quickly. It's rare , but it happens.

 

[Tinstar]

Post some pictures of each alternator and it's wiring.
Battery's, resistor, GP solenoid, etc.


Make sure battery's are fully charged and load tested.

Is truck bone stock or have any electrical items been installed like radio, lights, etc.

 

[Tinstar]

I don't know how to do do that
Thinking next month having a portable mechanic come check it

Don't waste your money unless he knows and, more importantly, understands CUCVs and their 12/24v system.

Plenty of stories in the old threads about guys doing that and the clueless to CUCVs mechanic really screws things up worse.