12V bus bar

[kcobean]

I've been looking at the multitude of 24v->12v step-down converters out there and the one thing I keep wondering is what do you do when you want to drive multiple devices off of one of these converters. Has anyone built their own bus bar to be able to hook onto a 12V bus with ring connectors onto the bar? Is there a better solution?

 

[pjwest03]

I use bus bars from Blue Sea. Available in many configs. They're relatively cheap on Amazon.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/18/BusBars

 

[kcobean]

I use bus bars from Blue Sea. Available in many configs. They're relatively cheap on Amazon.

https://www.bluesea.com/products/category/18/BusBars

I was just looking at those. So I'm no electrician, but these only provide the "hot wire" or positive wire distribution right? The ground to frame or body is always done locally?

 

[pjwest03]

I was just looking at those. So I'm no electrician, but these only provide the "hot wire" or positive wire distribution right? The ground to frame or body is always done locally?

Yes and yes. The traditional automotive setup is to use the body and or frame as the ground. In practice that means getting a good clean connection and protecting the connection area from corrosion. A great many electrical issues in cars and trucks are caused by bad/dirty/corroded grounds. Cleaning the grounds and possibly replacing the ground bonding straps is always a good place to go when you have a weird issue. You may find ground wiring in modern vehicles using composites and fiberglass bodied things like corvettes.

 

[Wire Fox]

I've been looking at the multitude of 24v->12v step-down converters out there and the one thing I keep wondering is what do you do when you want to drive multiple devices off of one of these converters. Has anyone built their own bus bar to be able to hook onto a 12V bus with ring connectors onto the bar? Is there a better solution?

You should be able to use any buss bar that has a sufficient current rating. There's the "24V" buss bar intended to be used when you install the 400A alternator that you could install as a 12V bar if you'd like. I currently use the PulseTech Power Distribution Unit (PDU), which allows easy connection of a solar charger, provides pulse charging, and gives several +28V and +14V leads that all have their own circuit breakers.

 

[ari]

I've been looking at the multitude of 24v->12v step-down converters out there and the one thing I keep wondering is what do you do when you want to drive multiple devices off of one of these converters. Has anyone built their own bus bar to be able to hook onto a 12V bus with ring connectors onto the bar? Is there a better solution?

have you seen this one? http://shop.pkys.com/Victron-Energy...M-Y0PRBh17vYqtgwroj_HJLO4GQS8ZrxoCjOAQAvD_BwE

 

[pjwest03]

In commercial 24V vehicles the solution tends to be battery equalizers. It allows you to draw more power and keeps the batteries in good balance. They tend to be 2-3 times more expensive than the converters but are available in higher amp ratings. Eaton SurePower is one of the major brands,

 

[kcobean]

ok, next question:

When you install a step down converter, where do you connect it? Straight off the isolator block and the positive terminal in the battery box

 

[Bill Nutting]

ok, next question:

When you install a step down converter, where do you connect it? Straight off the isolator block and the positive terminal in the battery box

Yes, connect it to the the 24 volt battery connection. I suggest using an in-line fuse and a switch between the battery and the 24 volt input connection on the converter. Then I connected the 12 volt output to a 6 circuit fuse block I bought at the auto parts store. All 12 volt devices have their own fuse. This is what I think is the best and safest way to add 12 accessories to our MV's.

 

[pjwest03]

I'm a fan of the marine battery terminal fuses. It keeps the fuse as close to the source as possible. You always have to keep in mind that the fuse is there primarily to protect the wire. Any unprotected wire is a potential short and fire starter.

 

[Suprman]

The sure power converter work very well and are very reliable. I always use a big breaker off the main 24v lead and use a large contactor relay to switch it with the truck ignition. If you want to do small stuff like cell phone charger you can just tap between the batts for that its such a low draw. For lights I usually try to find multi volt stuff so I can run it right off 24v.

 

[acesarmory]

I'm a fan of the marine battery terminal fuses. It keeps the fuse as close to the source as possible. You always have to keep in mind that the fuse is there primarily to protect the wire. Any unprotected wire is a potential short and fire starter.

The sure power converter work very well and are very reliable. I always use a big breaker off the main 24v lead and use a large contactor relay to switch it with the truck ignition. If you want to do small stuff like cell phone charger you can just tap between the batts for that its such a low draw. For lights I usually try to find multi volt stuff so I can run it right off 24v.

With the duel voltage alternator is there any need for a battery equilizer?

 

[Suprman]

No

 

[ryanruck]

With the duel voltage alternator is there any need for a battery equilizer?

Depends on how much 12v you're planning on drawing. The 12v on the dual voltage alternator is only about 50A.

If you're planning on drawing a lot of 12v, look into a Vanner battery equalizer. I have their 70-100M model which is rated to 100A. They aren't cheap but you can find deals on them if you look around.

The nice thing about them is you can parallel them for more capacity. The downside is the 100A is pretty large and you can only fit one in the compartment next to the battery box.

The 70-100M has some cool monitoring features you can tap into on the output plug to monitor your onboard electrical system, which will be a future project down the road for me.

 

[acesarmory]

Depends on how much 12v you're planning on drawing. The 12v on the dual voltage alternator is only about 50A.

If you're planning on drawing a lot of 12v, look into a Vanner battery equalizer. I have their 70-100M model which is rated to 100A. They aren't cheap but you can find deals on them if you look around.

The nice thing about them is you can parallel them for more capacity. The downside is the 100A is pretty large and you can only fit one in the compartment next to the battery box.

The 70-100M has some cool monitoring features you can tap into on the output plug to monitor your onboard electrical system, which will be a future project down the road for me.

Wouldn't that amp rating only matter if I'm pulling directly from the alternator ? If I tap the 12v battery wouldn't I only be limited by the amps in the battery?

 

[acesarmory]

Depends on how much 12v you're planning on drawing. The 12v on the dual voltage alternator is only about 50A.

If you're planning on drawing a lot of 12v, look into a Vanner battery equalizer. I have their 70-100M model which is rated to 100A. They aren't cheap but you can find deals on them if you look around.

The nice thing about them is you can parallel them for more capacity. The downside is the 100A is pretty large and you can only fit one in the compartment next to the battery box.

The 70-100M has some cool monitoring features you can tap into on the output plug to monitor your onboard electrical system, which will be a future project down the road for me.

If it exceeded 50 amps would the draw just pull from the battery?

 

[acesarmory]

Depends on how much 12v you're planning on drawing. The 12v on the dual voltage alternator is only about 50A.

If you're planning on drawing a lot of 12v, look into a Vanner battery equalizer. I have their 70-100M model which is rated to 100A. They aren't cheap but you can find deals on them if you look around.

The nice thing about them is you can parallel them for more capacity. The downside is the 100A is pretty large and you can only fit one in the compartment next to the battery box.

The 70-100M has some cool monitoring features you can tap into on the output plug to monitor your onboard electrical system, which will be a future project down the road for me.

If you draw additional voltage won't it just pull from the battery?