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What have you done to your CUCV today/lately - Part 2

WECSOG

Member
68
2
8
Location
Prescott, AZ
Changed the rear diff fluid today on my 1986 M1009 Blazer... When I pulled the cover I found what looks like limited slip in the rear end. My question is do I need to add limited slip lube in addition to the 80/90 gear oil?

The Lube order in the TM makes no mention of it needing any, but I'm concerned.

Pic below.20170728_125509_resized.jpg
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
Changed the rear diff fluid today on my 1986 M1009 Blazer... When I pulled the cover I found what looks like limited slip in the rear end. My question is do I need to add limited slip lube in addition to the 80/90 gear oil?

The Lube order in the TM makes no mention of it needing any, but I'm concerned.

Pic below.View attachment 692264
I just replaced my.locker...it uses regular 80/90 without additives the above comment is correct
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,987
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
View attachment 692208Man Rustystud. You sure keep that back window clean. And the way you blended the window rubber into the paint looks like my new truck that has no window gasket. You may be onto something there.
That's funny ! Yes the window is still out. The new window came in to day, so tomorrow I'll be prepping the window area. Removing the rust and applying a rust encapsulater .
That ride was a long one due to the heavy traffic around here. Having the rear window gone allowed some cool air to get in, but the noise was horrendous ! Especially when a semi would came along side.
 

rustystud

Well-known member
9,280
2,987
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
You taught your son well it appears there, rustystud!

He looks to have a good positive attitude and not bashful at all about pitching in. Clearly you are raising a good man, a chip off the old block for sure.

[thumbzup]:beer:
Yes, he has turned out OK. I was a little afraid having a son so late in life. I couldn't get out and play ball with him and things like that due to all my injuries but he has taken to other hobbies like his computer. He is also really looking forward to our trip to Alaska.
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
Purchased all new brake parts for the m1009 today ...bwsides the hard and rubber lines.. truck calls for dot5 but is very expensive can i convert it to dot3? Everything will be new besides the lines? Any help would be greatly appreciated here, I have to do the job by myself and do t want to have to find out later that I have to pump out a newly filled system to go back to the inappropriately priced dot5 aboit a dollar am ounce or more when I can spend 10$ on a big jug of dot3
 

german m1008

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
888
1,321
93
Location
Rhein-Main Area, Germany
......on short view Dot 3 is cheaper........but on the Long run, don't forget Dot 3 must be exchanged every 2-3 years! It's a Safety thing.
Dot 5 last longer.
When "everything" on your brakesystem is new (Everything that comes into contact with brake fluid) you can change to Dot 3.
........I would not do it.
 

Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
I didn't receive a bleed kit with my master so I guess I will be spending a lot of time pushing air out, I opted for the dot because I can afford it...with out bleeding the master that air will be pushed through the lines and put the bleeder correct?
 

someoldmoose

New member
583
2
0
Location
Lancaster, PA
It comes down to this . . . Dot 3 absorbs water , right out of the air. Any fording water means CHANGE the brake fluid. Dot 5 is Silicone based and does NOT absorb water, in fact, it repels it. Hence the military using it. IF you will not be taking your girl swimming, Dot 3 is fine. HOWEVER, COMPLETELY flush anything you are not replacing with BRAKE KLEEN or similar product. The two fluids don't like each other. Won't damage anything if tiny amounts are left. Just get out what ya can.

Regardless of fluid you MUST bench bleed the master cylinder. It can be done on the vehicle ( bolted to the booster ) just easier on the bench ( clamp one ear in a vice ). The REASON is to get the air out of the circuits INSIDE the master. If you do NOT, you will NEVER get a satisfactory pedal. Please take the extra five minutes. ANY auto parts place will have the kit for under $2.00 most likely. Get one.
 
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Volvo740turbo

New member
281
0
0
Location
St.louis missouri
I found bleed fittings and hoses at a different parts supply place, now I'm debating on buying the power-fill brake bleeder for the gm square top masters...ive used them before with great success...im not really fond of pumping and pumping and pumping if I don't have to, these things take less than 20 minutes to flush and fill a complete system...its 70$ and will make or easier to flush and refill the system by myself, my tuck doesn't see water besides the rain to honestly...
 

someoldmoose

New member
583
2
0
Location
Lancaster, PA
It's your dollar bill but I wouldn't. Shoot Brake Kleen into all the lines that are at the master. Blow shop air through same lines. Put the new pieces on. Fill the reservoir to the top. Let the lid off. Open all four bleeders and let gravity and atmospheric pressure do the work. Just DO NOT let the reservoir go empty. Close each bleeder as it starts to drip. Once all four are closed, have Soldier B do the pumping while you open and close bleeders. Start with R R, then L R, then R F, then LF. You SHOULD now be ready for a road test. If pedal isn't satisfactory . . . Rebleed in same sequence. NEVER let the master go empty or yet back to bench bleeding.
 
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