NormB
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THAT, is a thing of beauty.Got the base coat on.![]()
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I'm jealous.
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
THAT, is a thing of beauty.Got the base coat on.![]()
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Looks good.I had a mishap backing out of a narrow trail and bent the apparently very weak brush guard on a 2 inch diameter tree. I straightened it back out but the paint cracked off so I finally got around to painting the brush guard. I wire wheeled off all the loose paint and rust and painted it with Rust Oleum rusty metal primer. Then 24 hrs later with some 383 green Behr paint. The primer made it turn out much better than the last truck I did without it.
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I have also started adding a half quart of the cheap Walmart 2 stroke oil per tank. It could be a placebo but I swear the truck seems to idle smoother and it quieted the rattle at idle. If anything it should help prolong the injection pumps life while running this low sulfur BS fuel. It's also cheaper than any additive I've seen at less than $2 a tank. And the bottle fits nicely behind the back seat.
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It sure is for those that believe it helps. I have heard of it being used for many years, even heard of alot of folks using transmission fluid. I believe it all comes down to more lubrication for the injection pump and also making the injectors happy. As with what the OP said, he swears it sounds better and that is not the first time I have heard that about using 2 stroke oil.Looks good.
Also, on the oil thing -- is that really a thing?
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This is a great read on diesel additives. Well worth your time. http://www.dieselplace.com/forum/76.../177728-lubricity-additive-study-results.htmlLooks good.
Also, on the oil thing -- is that really a thing?
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A few years back I was doing research on why in 10 years diesel has gone from being significantly cheaper than gas to significantly more expensive. It turns out the "most PC term here", left, decided that whatever little amount of sulfur was in diesel was killing dolphins and melting the ice caps. So in the process of making ULSD, which adds something like 50 cents a gallon to the cost IIRC, removes much of the natural lubricity of diesel fuel. They claim that they add additives, again increasing cost, to restore it but they are only concerned with the 07+ trucks with common rail fuel systems. They could give a rats a** about a mechanically injected Humvee. I mean who would want one of the most patriotic vehicles ,a "gas guzzler", when you could have an imported Prius? In my research I found that study and the 2 stroke oil seemed like the most convenient and cheap option.Looks good.
Also, on the oil thing -- is that really a thing?
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That's a familiar sight... I just painted mine this weekend. Sherwin Williams CARC. Great paint! Definitely recommend it.Got the base coat on.![]()
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Looks great. Can you provide any tips on quantity of paint you used, number of coats, type of spray gun and nozzle you used, air pressure, etc.? I nearly zero experience spraying paint and a have a few to paint with CARC in the next month or so. I need all the help I can get.That's a familiar sight... I just painted mine this weekend. Sherwin Williams CARC. Great paint! Definitely recommend it.
Can't take credit for the camo job, that was a friend's skill. I put down the base coat. He had just finished spraying when I took the last couple pics so it's still wet.
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Didn't have to do the interior since I've already got that coated with Lizard Skin and Monstaliner. Also, pay no attention to the overspray on the windshield. I've got new glass and seals going in.
Also, how not to end up with a Plan B engine bay...
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Absolutely! I was just like you. I hadn't sprayed anything except my doors and top with Behr before this.Looks great. Can you provide any tips on quantity of paint you used, number of coats, type of spray gun and nozzle you used, air pressure, etc.? I nearly zero experience spraying paint and a have a few to paint with CARC in the next month or so. I need all the help I can get.![]()
I went 20% and it turned out very nicely and sprays very easily. Spraying the undiluted paint is slow going as it's fairly thick stuff.Dilutions: Do not dilute if you want the texture we all know and love, but expect a very small area the size of a mini foot ball or a little smaller than a baseball.
Dilute 10% with water will give almost the same texture and a little more coverage.
Dilute 25% will give you a normal spray pattern with little to no texture. This is what he recommend for a top coats after spraying it undiluted.
Dilute 25-33% (or more he said up to 1 part) to freshen up faded paint or prepare for a car show.
Thanks for the tips! I was wanting to go this same route once I was ready for paint. Truth be told, I'll probably try to get the body off the chassis and do a full repaint when I get to mine...but that might just be a dream. I want to see this HMMWV of your's some time soon to see how much the paint changed the look!Absolutely! I was just like you. I hadn't sprayed anything except my doors and top with Behr before this.
The gun was a Neiko HVLP with 2.0 tip with the DeVilbiss DeKups system. The DeKups system isn't mandatory but makes switching colors, running lacquer thinner through the gun when switching, and cleanup much easier. Remove the strainer that comes in the gun. Air pressure was around 40-45 PSI. Make sure you've got a good enough air compressor if you're spraying the CARC undiluted. Mines a bit undersized and struggled a bit.
Sherwin Williams will only sell in 1 gallon buckets which is way more brown and black than you could use on a single truck. You'll end up with tons left over. 1 bucket of green, diluted to 20% with water, is probably enough paint to do 2 trucks in base green. I had bought 2 gallons of green...Also the pot life is somewhat short so only mix enough as you go, around a quart at a time. I did 3 coats, 1 undiluted, 2 diluted, not counting the camo pattern.
The CARC can be diluted with distilled water to achieve different textures. Here is the recommended dilution rate as was given to me by a member here that spoke with a Sherwin Williams rep:
I went 20% and it turned out very nicely and sprays very easily. Spraying the undiluted paint is slow going as it's fairly thick stuff.
Get it agitated right before you're ready to use it, then mix with a stick, and finally mix with a paddle mixer in a drill. Make sure you get plenty of mixing ratio cups. You can clean them out with water but they get hard to use quick. Also make sure you pick up several extra buckets with lids to put mixed product into. Lastly it helps to have a 5 gallon bucket of water to toss used cups and the paddle mixer into for much easier cleanup.
The paint is very forgiving. I thought mine was going to end up looking like crap and it came out looking fantastic. Runs, if you dab them lightly right away with masking tape (a trick my friend who did the camo taught me), will flatten out very nicely to where they are nearly imperceptible. The hood takes forever to do. Don't try to get the whole grille section coated at once or you'll end up with runs. Do it from the front and back.
ETA: The undiluted CARC dries pretty quick, around an hour. Diluted CARC takes much longer, like a couple hours, especially if the humidity starts ticking up. Full cure time is 7 days.
Definitely! Unless something unforeseen happens I'm hoping to be at the fall Haspin rally. We should have a 3rd HMMWV with our group by then as well.Thanks for the tips! I was wanting to go this same route once I was ready for paint. Truth be told, I'll probably try to get the body off the chassis and do a full repaint when I get to mine...but that might just be a dream. I want to see this HMMWV of your's some time soon to see how much the paint changed the look!
Not dumb at all! 20% of the paint/catalyst mix (the CARC is a 2 part compound at a 2:1 ratio, paint:catalyst). So if I've got 32oz (1qt) of paint/catalyst, you're diluting with 6.4oz of water for 20% dilution or 8oz water for 25% dilution.Dumb question about the dilution rates.
When you say 20% -- is that diluted BY 20%, so 80% paint and 20% thinner, or is it diluted TO 20%, therefore 20% paint and 80% thinner?
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That is a good looking color. HMMWV in that color with a matching color M1101 would be a great comboNot dumb at all! 20% of the paint/catalyst mix (the CARC is a 2 part compound at a 2:1 ratio, paint:catalyst). So if I've got 32oz (1qt) of paint/catalyst, you're diluting with 6.4oz of water for 20% dilution or 8oz water for 25% dilution.
Here's the link to the SW product page with data sheets.
If I ever get another truck, I'd love to do it in Woodland Desert Sage they have. That's a good looking color!
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Are you talking about the place that sells brand new ones for $800/set?Hey guys, I remember seeing the source for new old stock soft doors for M998s on here somewhere. Can anybody provide it please?
Not NOS but new manufacture, Breton Industries. $200 each, all color options.Hey guys, I remember seeing the source for new old stock soft doors for M998s on here somewhere. Can anybody provide it please?
Thanks.Not dumb at all! 20% of the paint/catalyst mix (the CARC is a 2 part compound at a 2:1 ratio, paint:catalyst). So if I've got 32oz (1qt) of paint/catalyst, you're diluting with 6.4oz of water for 20% dilution or 8oz water for 25% dilution.
Here's the link to the SW product page with data sheets.
If I ever get another truck, I'd love to do it in Woodland Desert Sage they have. That's a good looking color!
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