M998 Battery Shutoff kill switch- My final setup with pictures

[dskupi01]

Here's what I ended up using.
I made the two battery cables, and removed one (part #5578874) from the original setup. Used 2.0 gauge wire (about 6 feet), purchased from a marine store. Soldered ends (4x) (marine store). 2 grommets (purchased at hardware store) fit the 2.0 gauge wire perfectly. Shrink wrap tubing over the soldered ends.

I used the flaming river (internet purchase) keyed shutoff. Very robust. I ran the one cable to the negative bar (called the instrument shut) between the two batteries to the shutoff. This cable is hard to see in the pictures.

 

[Jayo]

Looks great, thanks for sharing your pictures.

I had to change out my batteries recently, and while I was working on them I wasnt really paying attention to how I was moving the negative cable that goes from the Shunt to the battery, and the cable wasnt clamped. So now the lug on the shunt end of the cable is not well attached.

So I plan to make up a new cable and clamp it beside the shunt to provide relief on the lug, but I have been wondering if I should crimp the new lug or get some of those lugs with the solder inside.

The reason i have been hesitating is that usually when soldering you need to get all parts up to temperature so that the solder forms a good electrical connection, but Im unsure if I can heat up the cable hot enough without melting the insulation!!!!

Anyway, your setup looks nice and neat.

 

[dskupi01]

The connectors are just plain copper. Sized exactly for a 2.0 cable. You strip the insulation, flux copper connector, then use flux free electical solder. Heat will not impact the insulation. A marine store will have them. I am also sure the parts are defined in the technical parts manuals. Most electrical solder 60/40 lead tin melts at a very low temps. Lower than the insulation cover.

 

[anthkey]

Looks great, thanks for sharing your pictures.

I had to change out my batteries recently, and while I was working on them I wasnt really paying attention to how I was moving the negative cable that goes from the Shunt to the battery, and the cable wasnt clamped. So now the lug on the shunt end of the cable is not well attached.

So I plan to make up a new cable and clamp it beside the shunt to provide relief on the lug, but I have been wondering if I should crimp the new lug or get some of those lugs with the solder inside.

The reason i have been hesitating is that usually when soldering you need to get all parts up to temperature so that the solder forms a good electrical connection, but Im unsure if I can heat up the cable hot enough without melting the insulation!!!!

Anyway, your setup looks nice and neat.

Just heat up the eyelet,(in a vice).. and once the solder starts to melt .. stop heating... keep pushing the solder in till full..}.

 

[Stonewall]

That looks great. Love to see a really neat/clean installation. Good job with the solder and heat shrink.

 

[Wire Fox]

I'm going to highly suggest crimping cables like this instead of soldering. I believe in soldering through and through, but you just won't get the wire and connector to proper temperature to solder this correctly. (You may have electrical connection, but you're prone to cable stress and breakage or leaving gaps where water/chemicals can intrude and cause internal corrosion.) The tools to crimp this properly will be stupidly expensive, so make friends with someone that has a large hydraulic crimping tool or find a shop that will make a couple of nice hex crimps for you for $10-20. Check out this cross-section of what a properly crimped wire connection looks like... isn't it crazy how the wire strands compress to be a solid chunk?

 

[Action]

View attachment 695493View attachment 695494

I am wondering what happens when the rear passenger hits the key, and it turns, while driving down the road....

 

[1 Patriot-of-many]

I am wondering what happens when the rear passenger hits the key, and it turns, while driving down the road....

Im going to assume the key is removable in either position? You're such a killjoy Action.

 

[Jayo]

I'm going to highly suggest crimping cables like this instead of soldering. I believe in soldering through and through, but you just won't get the wire and connector to proper temperature to solder this correctly. (You may have electrical connection, but you're prone to cable stress and breakage or leaving gaps where water/chemicals can intrude and cause internal corrosion.) The tools to crimp this properly will be stupidly expensive, so make friends with someone that has a large hydraulic crimping tool or find a shop that will make a couple of nice hex crimps for you for $10-20. Check out this cross-section of what a properly crimped wire connection looks like... isn't it crazy how the wire strands compress to be a solid chunk?

Wow, thats impressive, it looks almost like its solid copper, not individual strands

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

 

[86humv]

Harbor freight has a tool for $ 54.
Works fine and has different size die's.
hydralic wire crimping tool.

 

[dskupi01]

Yes, key is removable in either position. It is also fairly robust, turns with some force. You'd have to turn it vs kick by accident. I just remove it once turned on. Another thread.... but I thought all military vehicles were designed to run without batteries (jump and run). Not a known fact, but I thought I read this. Would it come to a stop?

 

[Action]

You can remove a battery from almost any vehicle and it will keep running, won't it? Assuming the alternator is working.
As for stopping, there is a small round thing on the side of the hydroboost. If that system fails, we are supposed to have one good stop from that round thing. IIRC

 

[Wire Fox]

Harbor freight has a tool for $ 54.
Works fine and has different size die's.
hydralic wire crimping tool.

I think he's using 2/0 gauge, since 2.0 is a really weird way to note wire gauge, so that tool won't quite be large enough to do it. I have been looking at a similar tool to knock out the 8 AWG cables I've been working with lately. Was trying to find a reasonable review off of one of the $25 ones I saw to see if it's worthwhile...

 

[Wire Fox]

You can remove a battery from almost any vehicle and it will keep running, won't it? Assuming the alternator is working.
As for stopping, there is a small round thing on the side of the hydroboost. If that system fails, we are supposed to have one good stop from that round thing. IIRC

Depends on the ignition system. A lot of newer vehicles won't tolerate loss of a battery. In the first gen KLR 650 motorcycle, you could run without a battery without any issue via bump-starting or jump-starting. One the 2nd gen rolled out in 2008, bump-starting was lost because the load of the battery was necessary for the ignition system to work...you could still jump-start a completely dead battery and it will remain running, though. The KLR is not technically advanced by any stretch, so I imagine a lot of modern ignition system would really fight you with keeping the engine running. There should be no difficulty with the HMMWV due to no electronic ignition system, but the alternator might just give up the ghost in a hurry without a battery connection.

 

[dskupi01]

Yes 2/0

 

[85M998]

Your install is good, but it seems very easy to override by simply jumping the two posts on the switch. As a security feature, it is not very secure unless you add a lock to the battery box cover.

 

[85M998]

I am wondering what happens when the rear passenger hits the key, and it turns, while driving down the road....

The hmmwv will completely shut down. I have tested mine with the same question in mind. The injector pump will not operate without power and losing a ground will remove all power from the pump. No injector pump = no engine.

 

[dskupi01]

True. Easily defeated, but could be accompanied by a cover lock. Not with security in mind.

 

[kcobean]

I did an almost identical solution, except I mounted the cutoff out the front of the battery box instead of the rear.

 

[Stonewall]

For the most part, practically any security system is "easily defeated" by someone who knows what they are doing. A lock to the battery box is easily defeated by a pry bar. I think the security feature this adds is to deter or eliminate some idiot from jumping in and taking the vehicle for a spin in the parking lot, just because they happen to know you do not need a key in a normal MV.

Your install is good, but it seems very easy to override by simply jumping the two posts on the switch. As a security feature, it is not very secure unless you add a lock to the battery box cover.