MEP-803A Cranks, wont start.

[dwade154]

well I was able to get it to turn most of the way and then it stops and wont turn anymore. i tried multiple times moving it back and forth to try and free it but it seems like there is something in the cyl's. Im guessing what carbon i wasnt able to vacuum out fell inside from the exhaust ports. it was CAKED FULL of carbon. I scoped the cyl walls from the bottom and was able to see cyl 2&3 had excessive amounts of rust build up on the cyl walls. it will probably be torn apart and sent to the machine shop. IDK i may part it out too.

what surprising is this is a re manufactured engine with only 200 hours on it.

BUMMER!!!!

 

[Chainbreaker]

Yep, hours are one thing and time sitting unused & exposed on a lot is another. Lot-Rot (aka: Barn-Rot) has an affinity to turn shiny metal surfaces into a rust pit!

Anyway, sorry to hear of your findings. Of course anything can be fixed...just a matter of time and money!

 

[DieselAddict]

Rust has zero care for engine hours.

You have nothing to loose at this point in tearing it apart. Cross your fingers and hope you can clean it up and get it back together for five or six hundred bucks.

 

[Kenny0]

Sorry about your engine, you evidently got one that was sitting with water in it too long. If you fix this one chances are it's going to have to be bored out. Maximum oversize bore on this engine is 1 mm. Therefore the maximum depth of that rusty area has got to be less than one half of 1 mm of the original bore size. If it is more than that there is another option besides replacement. Some engines can be bored beyond that and sleeved to bring it within specs. Your engine shop would have more information on that then I would. If you get a different block and it is used make sure you can see what you're getting. If your fingernail catches the ring groove at the top of the cylinder it should be bored over size. good luck no matter what you do.

 

[Hard Head]

If I see a gen set missing the exhaust flap I pass on it! The design of the MEP-80XA exhaust cover lets water in the cabinet and muffler. The spring and silicon pad do little to seal it up. Sometimes it is better to just keep what you want for spares, part the rest and buy another unit.

 

[rustystud]

rustystud - I would never use nor recommend an engine that pours out belching clouds of smoke. Evidently you have only worked with extreme cases. In extreme cases no amount of fairy dust will do anything. An engine sitting out in the back 40 for 10 years without a rain cap where it rains regularly is going to be an extreme case. An engine that needed an overhaul that was parked and got stuck would still need an overhaul. Not all cases of being stuck is an extreme case. The key is putting the engine under maximum load for at least an hour and after that time if it looks like it's going to be usable, great. just change oil and filter and accelerate the next 2 oil and filter changes. It looks like we are probably about the same age, and I have done repair work my whole life for a living. It seems like we have a difference of opinion on this, hey that's okay it all makes the world go round. I do stand behind everything that I have said in my posts. This is from first-hand personal experience, not fairytales and stories. I think we have both said enough on the subject for the readers to form their own opinion. Good day sir.

What I was trying to explain to you is, an engine that is rusted tight or "seized" will never be good. An engine that is just carboned up with a little rust thrown it can be salvaged sometimes. If you have been able to free up an engine that was totally rusted up (seized) and it runs good afterwards, then my hat is off to you.
I also forgot to mention that when your doing your engine dyno thing your not repairing the rust damage. Your just loosening up the rings that probably have severe carbon build up on them. You cannot replace missing metal due to rust damage.

 

[rustystud]

Rust has zero care for engine hours.

Ain't that the truth !