What did you do to your deuce this week?

[Another Ahab]

Video of truck running with valve covers removed:

Cool vid:

- Ingenious invention that internal combustion engine.

 

[Maverick1701]

Cool vid:

- Ingenious invention that internal combustion engine.

I totally agree sir! I LOVE to watch engines operate. They are amazing machines!

 

[mobileauto2000]

Maybe i'm just use to modern engines, But where is the oil? It looks like the valves are running dry

 

[Maverick1701]

Maybe i'm just use to modern engines, But where is the oil? It looks like the valves are running dry

It's there but difficult to see in the video. These engines don't splash oil around the valve areas like small block Chevrolets & modern engines.
There are several other valve cover-less m35a2 videos on youtube, they all look like mine.

 

[rustystud]

Today I knocked out my first axle boot replacement. It went surprisingly well. I had read horror stories of having to use clamps to hold the boot/wire in place and needing extra people, etc. It went on w/out any issues.

After installing the new drivers boot, I checked the pass boot and it's in worse shape than the boot I removed from the drivers side, so I'm going to flip the old drivers boot 180* and install it on the pass side tomorrow (so the small tear is on top vs bottom and I'll tape the hole enough to get me by for the weekend). After this weekend trip, I'll order a new one for the pass side (I don't have time to get a new one here before we head out).

The valve adjustment was a failure. I really needed soldier #2 to turn the drive shaft while I watched the valves. However, it did give me a chance to examine the valves of the engine to check for anything major. Thankfully everything looked and sounded normal.

Video of truck running with valve covers removed:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TD0air54LoU

Valve covers removed:

View attachment 704579

new boot:
View attachment 704578

The best way to adjust valves is with the engine running. That way your not worrying about getting to operating temperature since it is already there.

 

[rosco]

Today when you tell some one to adjust the valves, "Hot & Running", they look at you as if your kidding! But its the way to get the job done right, and most accurate. Learning that as a Kid, it was probably the most difficult task to learn & to get right.

If your not real familiar with the engine, mark one or the other with chalk - the intake or exhaust. I found that using an offset box wrench and a big screwdriver that just fit the slot worked well. Make the adjustment to the valve, then slip the screwdriver through the box wrench a little, & you can hold both, with a couple of fingers & not have to lay it down, while you make another check, with the feeler gauge. Always be cautions of the fan & where you lay stuff, as there may be enough vibration to rattle & shake stuff off.

Note: There are tight valves, loose valves, and then you can also have valves where the end of the rocker arm is worn to where it has a ridge where it contacts the valve. A static valve adjustment, will not adjust that valve properly, and yes, it will start marking your feeler gauge. The worn rocker arm valve, will always sound loose when the adjusting is done static. If the engine is "Hot & Running", you'll be able to find that noisy valve, and tighten it just enough to quiet it adequately, while not being too tight.

 

[Aussie Bloke]

G'day everyone,....


Went and worked on my Deuce the other day, I managed to remove the lower radiator hose clamp easier that I thought.

Just used a 10mm socket on a small extension almost directly up between the radiator and crossmember.

Now more coolant came out so I have to wait till the floor drys, I will be going back in about 4 days to finnish replacing that radiator hose.

Yeah, its been a while I have been mucking around with it, but on the bright side, I think I found out why my deuce has had the starting issue.

I found the main power cable that come up through the wiring loom and out under the air filter that attaches to the starter solenoid has been resting on the flexable exhaust pipe and the insulation has melted away.

This has meant the cable has been shorting on the exhaust pipe.

I will wrap some electrical tape around it to insulate it and secure it away from the exhaust pipe, I hope this is all I need to do to get it to start.

I took some video of it and will post it after my next work session.




Aussie.

 

[Maverick1701]

Y'alls reply posts are making me wonder what to do now (since I still need to do the adjustment... I want to get it right). Everything I read on the forum says to do the adjustment with the engine cold (including a post from DH whose opinion I trust). I'm searching through my TMs to see what they say, so far I can't find the section. Here is one example (see attachment) of a post stating to do the adjustment cold vs hot. What are y'alls thoughts?

 

[Another Ahab]

Y'alls reply posts are making me wonder what to do now (since I still need to do the adjustment... I want to get it right). Everything I read on the forum says to do the adjustment with the engine cold (including a post from DH whose opinion I trust). I'm searching through my TMs to see what they say, so far I can't find the section.

It'll drive you bananas when you get two sets of advice that seem to directly contradict one another.

There's usually a ready explanation, if the exchange were just a friendly conversation, but typing out replies by text complicates it.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Y'alls reply posts are making me wonder what to do now (since I still need to do the adjustment... I want to get it right). Everything I read on the forum says to do the adjustment with the engine cold (including a post from DH whose opinion I trust). I'm searching through my TMs to see what they say, so far I can't find the section. Here is one example (see attachment) of a post stating to do the adjustment cold vs hot. What are y'alls thoughts?

View attachment 704646

Everyone has their own way of doing the same thing. I was told the clearance values were different in intake and exhaust because of thermal expansion once the motor is running. SO personally, I set them cold as stated in the TM. If you do it while its running and warm, you may get a false gap. I'm sure others have more/better insight, but thats how I do it.

 

[Maverick1701]

Everyone has their own way of doing the same thing. I was told the clearance values were different in intake and exhaust because of thermal expansion once the motor is running. SO personally, I set them cold as stated in the TM. If you do it while its running and warm, you may get a false gap. I'm sure others have more/better insight, but thats how I do it.

Agreed X10000. I'm going to stick with the TM and set it w/the engine cold.

I have this little cheat sheet printed off for when I finally get to the adjustment.





Todays jobs went smoothly, I replaced the pass axle boot with the slightly damaged old drivers boot (the current pass boot was totally shredded). I also finished wiring up my dual battery monitor. I used these little "battery terminal bolt taps" which hook on the battery terminal bolt and have spades for wiring connectors. It's not something you could use to run something with a major voltage requirement....but it works GREAT for a simple monitor/GPS/etc.

Saturday is the Jeep off-road poker run & halloween cook-out at the Canadian River. I'll be sure to take lots of pictures & am bringing a GoPro to record the M35A2 showing those cute little Jeeps how it's really done off-road. .

 

[frank8003]

Now you did it.
Now I can't even remember if the multi fuel engine has solid or hydraulic lifters/tappets.
Looked it up for seven minutes and those threads went to everywhere but the answer.
Probably time for a nap.

 

[rustystud]

Y'alls reply posts are making me wonder what to do now (since I still need to do the adjustment... I want to get it right). Everything I read on the forum says to do the adjustment with the engine cold (including a post from DH whose opinion I trust). I'm searching through my TMs to see what they say, so far I can't find the section. Here is one example (see attachment) of a post stating to do the adjustment cold vs hot. What are y'alls thoughts?

View attachment 704646

I'll just say this and let you decide. I've been a heavy diesel mechanic for 45 years. Recently retired (2 years) . In all that time the best way to adjust the valves was hot and running. The reason the TM says to do it cold is so that the silly GI's didn't' hurt themselves. Really that is the only reason. I have "factory" service manuals going back to the turn of the 20th century (1900) and they all said to adjust valves hot and running. In todays world though due to liability and insurance and State L&I most manufactures say to adjust them with the engine cold. It takes skill and practice to adjust them hot and running so just do it as the TM says to do.

 

[Another Ahab]

Now you did it.
Now I can't even remember if the multi fuel engine has solid or hydraulic lifters/tappets.
Looked it up for seven minutes and those threads went to everywhere but the answer.
Probably time for a nap.

Naps are good.

 

[FloridaAKM]

I put two new 700 cca batteries in my newest Deuce as of the original Hawker batteries, only one was good. The other would not hold a charge. The cables were cut & worn, so I replaced all but the (+) lead going to the starter as it was okay! There is room for one more battery in there now.


Here is the old battery installation on the GP lot.

 

[DavidWymore]

I'll just say this and let you decide. I've been a heavy diesel mechanic for 45 years. Recently retired (2 years) . In all that time the best way to adjust the valves was hot and running. The reason the TM says to do it cold is so that the silly GI's didn't' hurt themselves. Really that is the only reason. I have "factory" service manuals going back to the turn of the 20th century (1900) and they all said to adjust valves hot and running. In todays world though due to liability and insurance and State L&I most manufactures say to adjust them with the engine cold. It takes skill and practice to adjust them hot and running so just do it as the TM says to do.

Hot and running, loosen until tick, tighten until tick goes away, correct?

Thanks

 

[cattlerepairman]

Did a chassis grease fest (including the zerks on the pedals and the pintle hitch ) and an oil change. I also pretended not to see that there is what looks like an oil stain on the inside of two tires. I just did all the hubs two weeks ago and the truck has not moved since. My working assumption is that this is crud from washing the brake drums.
If it is 80/90 I will get a tad angry....

 

[cattlerepairman]

I also need to report the first drive after installing all new upgraded torque rod ends and new king pin bushings, as well as greasing everyhting. What a difference in ride quality. Tight, tight front end and smoother rear. The new torque rod ends cause a different rear axle dynamic. Much less jumpy and much less bouncy. The rear end feels calmer. I like it!

 

[rustystud]

Hot and running, loosen until tick, tighten until tick goes away, correct?

Thanks

Actually what you do is loosen them and using the proper feeler gauge install it between the valve and rocker and adjust until you can just barely remove the feeler gauge. It really isn't all that complicated just takes a bit of coordination since the valves are jumping up and down. You learn to allow the gauge to "float" in your hand while doing this. When done properly you will have a better adjustment then doing it cold. Engines run smooth as hot butter !

 

[Aussie Bloke]

G'day everyone,....


Just came across some interesting B&W vid of tyre changing on a MV, thought the technique interesting.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHn_pt3nUks


Oh yeah,.. its in French!


Aussie.