King Pin and Spindle Bushings

[goodwithwood35]

In the process of replacing my torn axle boots, I decided to replace my spindle and king pin bushings. Being that the truck is 50+ years old, I had no idea how long they have been in there. Since I was there anyways, I chose to replace the bushings in the spindle along with the king pin bushings. You know, to eliminate this messy process for a while.

Since the old bushings (TM=bearings) came off in the "holders", or as the TM refers to them as "Sleeves", I decided to press in the new bushings into the sleeves, then install the assembly onto the knuckle. This proved to be quite difficult as the tolerances between the new bushings and the king pins was next to nothing. Understandably they are new, and should be this way, I am concerned with the installation. I have already boogered up a few new bushings and new ones are on the way

The TM (-24-1) instructs to install the lower assembly first, then the uppers on each side, then the steering arm. Even still, with brand new bushings, I had a hard time installing these with the bushings already pressed into the sleeves.

The TM does not describe prior pressing in of the bushings, it does say, "Install the sleeve (lower), bearing and spacer on the left and right knuckle", then completes the process with the top assemblies.

Is it recommended to install the new bushings on the vehicle? I.E. without first prior pressing them into the sleeves? I think this would actually be easier, with anti-seize and some sort of clamp press, like how a ball joint press or C-clamp works. I think the TM is misleading here, and almost sounds like it should be done as such, of course without the mechanical assistance of a press.

I've checked my tolerances on the king pins and they are within spec, not out of round, 1.124" OD. I've measured in several places on the caliper. All the sleeves are the same size, 1.127" ID. If you add everything up, it is .000 to .001" tolerance!

Do you need to "open up" or burnish the bushings and/or pins prior to install? The TM does not describe this but previous posts by some other folks on here did mention something to this. It could have been on a different vehicle. Obviously the same question would apply to the spindle bushings. The ride super tight on the axle and I'm afraid they (king pin and spindle bushings) will be damaged upon installation.

Perhaps this has been posted before, but the ones I've seen and searched it barely touches on the subjects without having the issues I have when others have done the boot installs.

I'm about ready to just put the old bushings back in, bearings are good, alignment is good, but the right tire has always worn funny, and want to defer going back into the knuckles for a while. I didn't think it would be that difficult of a job to get it taken care of.

Any help is appreciated. Thank you.

Mike

 

[texas30cal]

.124 should go in .127, is the .127 ID after being pressed into the holders or before? If before then they are being crushed when pressed and prob require reaming. I'm not a TM expert but have been a machinist for a long time and reaming bushings after pressing is very common.

 

[goodwithwood35]

Yes, that is the ID of the holder before the bushing is pushed in. You add the thickness of the bushing .062 x 2. So I have zero or negative tolerance and they are being crushed. I was wondering if this was common, and sounds like in your experience they are.

 

[texas30cal]

I wouldn't want the large spindle bushing snug bc of expansion with heat, it could stick to the shaft as the shaft grows. The spindle bushing won't have anything to do with tire wear or alignment as it is just a guide to keep the shaft straight while spinning. There may be a clearance spec for the spindle bushing? If not I'd guess .003-.005 clearance would be safe. Again, I'm no TM expert but have built and rebuilt LOTS of machinery, this is just general knowledge/info.

 

[texas30cal]

What is dia of kingpins? What is id of bushings after pressing?

 

[goodwithwood35]

I could not find a spec anywhere. It did give a front end play spec using a bar and a dial indicator.

 

[texas30cal]

You can get a import hand reamer for the kingpin bushings for $50-$60 on egay, or any good machineshop should be able to ream them to size in a few minutes providing they are not a odd ID. By your first post it looks like the pins measure 1.124 , a 1-1/8" (1.125) reamer is pretty common, that's not much clearance (reaming by hand may go oversize of the reamer 1-2 thousandths) but it's enough as it's not spinning creating heat. There are also adjustable expansion reamers that would allow you to take out a little extra IF you need to.

 

[gringeltaube]

Here are the specs and wear limits...

 

[goodwithwood35]

Yes. 1.124 on the pins, 1.123 on the installed bushings. I’ll probably head to a machine shop when I get the new bushings. I’ll have to have the spindles done too anyways.

Ain’t broke don’t fix it they say




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[goodwithwood35]

Here are the specs and wear limits...

The old ones didn’t look too bad, just uneven wear. I might just reuse them. Haven’t seen that TM yet. Thank you.


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[gringeltaube]

The old ones didn’t look too bad, just uneven wear. I might just reuse them. ...

I always reuse them; especially after seeing the poor quality of typical aftermarket parts...

It's no big deal and I think I have posted about the how-to, before... just can't seem to find it now.

 

[goodwithwood35]

I always reuse them; especially after seeing the poor quality of typical aftermarket parts...

It's no big deal and I think I have posted about the how-to, before... just can't seem to find it now.

I saw your post on the home made king pin grinding device! Wow. Beyond my capabilities!


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[texas30cal]

Gringeltaube is the king of homemade machine tools!!! A 1-1/8 hand reamer should get it right where you need it according to the specs. Mr.G. Do they give a spec for the spindle bushing ID?

 

[cattlerepairman]

I went the easy way and used https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts?product_id=116
Plates with new bushings installed and new shim.

I also second using a hand reamer. One fit perfectly out of the box, the other needed one or two gentle passes to fit easily and snugly.

 

[goodwithwood35]

I went the easy way and used https://www.rockwelloffroad.com/2.5-ton-parts?product_id=116
Plates with new bushings installed and new shim.

I also second using a hand reamer. One fit perfectly out of the box, the other needed one or two gentle passes to fit easily and snugly.

Thanks.

How is the new plate with pre-installed bushings easier or a different ID? Wouldn’t they be the same size as the ones I got from the other vendors with the only difference being new plates?


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[cattlerepairman]

Thanks.

How is the new plate with pre-installed bushings easier or a different ID? Wouldn’t they be the same size as the ones I got from the other vendors with the only difference being new plates?


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For me it removed one opportunity to mess up - mangle the bushings when pressing them in (thumbs up for that). You know, when you have a bunch of spares lying around you won't need them. If you do not have a spare bushing, the first one you press in gets mangled. Murphy is watching.
I do not know where the company sources the bushings they press into their plates, so I cannot answer re ID. All I can say, from my limited experience of doing it on one truck, it was one bushing that needed a bit of "help".

 

[rustystud]

Having replaced hundreds of truck king-pins I can honestly say I never found one that didn't need reaming after installing the new bushings. So go "on-line" and buys some cheap reamer that will expand to the size you need and gently ream out these bushings. I have bought some reasonably priced reamer sets on-line, so there out there.
Another thing you can do is use a brake hone. It will take some time, but using a good "cutting" or "honing" oil you can do it. Get a good "new" hone with the roughest stones you can buy and go for it. Remember if you go this route to "check" often so you don't over hone.

 

[goodwithwood35]

Having replaced hundreds of truck king-pins I can honestly say I never found one that didn't need reaming after installing the new bushings. So go "on-line" and buys some cheap reamer that will expand to the size you need and gently ream out these bushings. I have bought some reasonably priced reamer sets on-line, so there out there.
Another thing you can do is use a brake hone. It will take some time, but using a good "cutting" or "honing" oil you can do it. Get a good "new" hone with the roughest stones you can buy and go for it. Remember if you go this route to "check" often so you don't over hone.

Got the new bushings pressed in last night, need to remove about 0.010-0.012” off each one.

I found an adjustable reamer for $39 on the famous auction website. When I’m done I’ll lend these out to anyone that wants to borrow as long as they pay the to/from shipping. Also found one for the spindle bushings.

I do like the brake hone idea. I thought about that too. I have one for the brake WC’s but it’s too large. That would be a good way to get there also, and have a smoother finish.


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[texas30cal]

You'd be there a while taking out .012", and would wind up with a hourglass shaped bushing using a spring loaded brake hone. Non ferrous metals also clog grinding/honing stones.

 

[goodwithwood35]

You'd be there a while taking out .012", and would wind up with a hourglass shaped bushing using a spring loaded brake hone. Non ferrous metals also clog grinding/honing stones.

True.


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