I see about a 6-8" space above the spring. Are you cutting some of the frame for the axle to have some travel or is there a modification to the spring mounts? Like using a deuce front end's spring mounts where there is some space?
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What did you do to your trailer today.
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drivebymashing
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I wonder how much weight it would take to squat a 105? I think I could put 2k in it and not squat it much.
Making new frame to keep the 788 box lower and to pull behind the 1/2 ton pu. (not using the 1101...too high). Picked up 2 wheels and tires at the salvage yard from a 1 ton Ford truck and narrowed the Dexter axle to 3" past the outside of the box. Axle will be underslung. There will be an inner fender well also. Box will be slightly higher than in the photo and the frame will extend in front, for materials, and in back for a step. I'm thinking about a pop up top tent or structure for sleeping on top.
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My 105 springs are the same as my A3 front plus has overloads. I'll peg them at 2 1/2 tons (just a guess). I know I don't want more spring, maybe less.
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Lowering the M1101 seems like it would be a lot less work.
There's a thread around here somewhere that details how easy it is to get that trailer close to the ground.
Found it: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?134805-Another-way-to-lower-an-M1101-M1102
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Oh yes, I have read that post and looked mine over to see if it was worth trying. There is a lot of changes to gain 3". I came to the conclusion I can go a lot lower with an under-slung axle (which I have on hand and just needed to modify for width). Finding wheels and like new tires for $50 each helped my decision, although they would fit the 1101 also.
The modified 1101 will make a dandy portable welder trailer and I can give up the old Ranger rear clip that it's on....so no effort wasted.
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The M1101 already has the surge brakes, runaway brakes, and parking brakes, tongue jack, landing legs, etc.
I was ready to start cutting my M1101 to get it lower until I hauled a yard of gravel. The height of the trailer was actually beneficial because I could position the cart/wheelbarrow under the tailgate and pull the gravel off. That was a LOT easier than lifting it up. So for now my trailer is staying stock underneath. Got rid of the heavy wheels and swapped in some 8-lug wheels and load-range-E tires that I got for free behind the tire store.
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That's a perfect use and reason to not lower it. Lowering by taking that part of the frame out is a lot of work, even though he says easy. I'll bet I'm 14" lower with the 788 box on the (under-construction) under slung axle frame (compared to the modified 1101). PU will like that better.
I thought I made a good deal on tires and wheels...free is better.
I thought I made a good deal on tires and wheels...free is better.
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That was poorly worded. The tires (incl a spare) were free, the wheels were $100 for four. Painted to match the trailer.
drivebymashing
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I slammed my 1101 using stock wheels and 37s lowered it 5 inches
How did you get 5" lower with 37" tires?
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He had 47’s on there before!
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I sanded down the inside and outside of one of the 101A2’s in preparation for refinishing. Used an 80 grit flap disk on a 4.5” angle grinder, CARC dust flying everywhere. Man, that CARC is some nasty stuff ... oh, who am I kidding. I paid some kid to do it. But I did give him the best respirator made. (Kid = 24 year old)
I did show show him how to do it without cutting holes in my trailer though.
Im not old, but I am too old for that crap. He did a good job.
I did show show him how to do it without cutting holes in my trailer though.
Im not old, but I am too old for that crap. He did a good job.
drivebymashing
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notched out the blue line and drilled holes in the first picture and deleted the piece with blue x on it.
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That seems pretty straightforward. Can I ask why? Is it because you want it to ride level and the tongue is too high? Do you have a picture of it lowered with 37’s?
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- Blythewood, SOUTH CAROLINA
Making my 105 axle a dual tire setup. The trailer is a flat M35 bed, the frame is an M105 stretched to fit the bed. I always have to come up with some way to make a lathe. Maybe one day I'll get a real one....
rustystud
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Now that is extremely creative ! Looks good too !
drivebymashing
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I wanted a lower trailer. Easier to load and unload. Tows level behind most of my vehicles 
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Yea 4X, I was asking about taking that flange off in an earlier post, but to be able to run my M35A3 wheels with dish out. Your idea of doing it for duals makes it so the axle (frame etc) is within the legal limit, not narrowed. Good job cleaning it up, it's a LOT of work. Obviously it's cast iron, not steel. I know it's a lot of work cutting Iron
I took a job changing from a flat belt to a 6V with flat backer on a 200 hp, 6' diameter bandsaw. The outer part was no problem but the cast iron was 4" thick and about 10" wide on the shaft. I couldn't damage the shaft. Normally I use LP for cutting but I rented two of the large acetyline for that. Eight 330 CF bottles of oxygen and about 10 hours later I had it in 2 parts and didn't mark or discolor the shaft. Heat melt blow away, heat melt blow away...
Even with a lathe, torching may be the quickest way to remove the bulk of that flange. I don't think my LP would do it,maybe it would, but acetylene gets hotter. Edit2....I see you used plasma, how did that do (it looks rough but may not have been that bad).
I asked if anyone knew if a deuce hub would fit, but don't recall anyone responding. Just a guess but outside of tire to outside is about 7'8"??
Good work....I may be doing the flange trick very soon also. Thanks for the detailed photo's.
Edit...just noticed that is a LMTV bed..
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