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MEP-803A Spare Parts

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SalmonSlayer

Member
36
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Location
Alaska
Farmitall said:
Please don't leave for the boonies without a hard copy of the manuals. Its difficult enough in the lower 48 obtaining things....up there will be rough.:mrgreen:
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Already have them all printed out and in a binder. all but the one maintenance manual that's over 700 pages. I've got it on my hard drive and should be ok with that. I do have smaller backup generators and solar battery bank if i need power
 
B

Bmxenbrett

Member
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Location
NY
What are you running that you need a 10kw generator? Thats prety far out there for a/c or an electric water heater.
 
S

SalmonSlayer

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Location
Alaska
Bmxenbrett said:
What are you running that you need a 10kw generator? Thats prety far out there for a/c or an electric water heater.
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unit will be powering a salmon processing facility. not a terribly large one but i need the startup power for the walk in freezer. Freezer uses i think 35 amps on startup then drops considerably. everything else should run no problem(lights, water pumps, vacuum packer, etc...) Having too much power is a bit of a concern so in order to combat wet stacking i plan on powering my cabin on it as well as charging a battery bank (for cabin power) for when the generator isn't running.
 
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Demoh

Member
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St Pete, FL
Ill just chime in and fuel return lines. Make sure they are solid before going out (id replace them anyways, my personal opinion is the continental fabric hose that is used is garbage and is good for a season or 2 unless upgraded) and have enough line to redo it in the bush.
 
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dav5

Active member
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Mono, Ontario
Sounds like a blast. I'm sure you could convince a few knowledgeable people from steel soldiers to come help you in return for some fishing.
 
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SalmonSlayer

Member
36
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8
Location
Alaska
Sorry been away for a while. finally finishing up the build process and got to test the 803 with the new freezer today. freezer ran great on the genset however noticing some issues on the panel. the frequency seems to be fluctuating and as i can seem to be able to keep it dialed in to 60 I'm wondering what causes the fluctuation. also i have almost nothing reading on the load % gauge. at one time it was reading about 55% with the freezer running and 2 1500W space heaters plugged in and running then out of nowhere dropped to about 3% and everything was still running. any ideas or info would be much appreciated thanks
 
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SalmonSlayer

Member
36
16
8
Location
Alaska
Guyfang said:
Please define what fluctuations means to you.

Have you mesured/ tested your hertz reading with an independent meter?
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I have not yet measured it with my multimeter. The gauge wasn't moving a whole lot probable ranging from 57-63Hz and not bouncing either. i would dial it in to 60Hz and then it would occasionally climb then i would dial it back and it would hold for a minute before dropping so i would raise it back up a bit. Ashamed to admit that i just don't know enough about this subject to understand what causes the hertz to change...IE is it the genset or the draw put on it etc. My main concern right now was the %rated load meter not reading anything when it had a significant load on it. After reading through some other posts i see that the Dials may need to be cleaned and cycled. I pulled the unit back into my shop to give it a cleaning and figured that i may as well remove the top cover while it was inside and make sure everything was clean behind the rear selector as well and in doing so can't figure out how to get it off. i have every bolt and screw pulled off but the lid won't come off. is it glued on as well? it looks like i can see some sealant seeping out at the seams but i really don't want to damage the panel
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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Yes, it's probably glued down with RTV. A putty knife works well to get it up.

For me, a fluctuation is the raising and lowering of the hertz, (read that as engine speed) that is somewhat "orderly". For instance, 57-63. It goes up about as much as it goes down. There can be several reasons for the. Also important is the frequency between the hertz swings. Fast and slow oscillations. Different reasons for them also. Fast oscillating set are called hunting sets. You can hear the engine speed go up and down. Sometimes it chugs along like someone is turning it on and off. Slow oscillating is often difficult to hear, unless you watch the gage and tune your ear to it.

One reason your hertz can be unsteady is the load changes. Things get turned on and off automatically. It's best to load test using a resistive load. No load swing, no need for the gen set to try and self correct the hertz. Loose linkages and such also can be a problem. Also droop. But we won't go there until all else fails.

You our need to use an independent meter to read the hertz. If you can get an old analog meter, it's best. The digital meters sometimes don't read hertz changes as well as analog.

As for your percent of load problem, also keep in mind that S6 and S8 have to be in the right positions in relation to one another. If you are not sure, read the Operaters TM.

got to run, it's 01:35
 
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SalmonSlayer

Member
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Location
Alaska
Thanks ill get on that this week. Im fairly sure i had both S6 and S8 in the correct positions and i did show load at one time and then it just went away. I ordered some deoxit to clean out the switches I also bought a clamp on meter so i can verify amperage independently although not entirely sure on the procedure to do that. how can i figure the amperage coming off of the generator rather than going to each individual component i have hooked to it? Ive got the unit hooked up to a main panel on the plant so I'm using both 120 and 240 Should i measure each wire at the lugs of the generator and combine? sorry again but I'm learning as i go
 
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Zed254

Well-known member
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466
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Location
S. Hampton Roads, VA
Clamp meter on the wires coming off main lugs. Red and Black will be hot. White is neutral and will probably have a balancing load on it. On one of my test runs I had 50.35 amps on Red, 53.25 amps on Black, and 3.05 amps on the White. I was testing on a stove and I think the control circuits provided the imbalance of 3 amps. I have removed the oven light. Single Phase, 240 volts.
 

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Zed254

Well-known member
866
466
63
Location
S. Hampton Roads, VA
Each leg defines the amps. No addition. I had the generator maxed out on the stove and measured all 3 loads. Our 803s are good for 52 amps with a resistive load and no derating. I'm no electrician but I think my Black cable pulling 53.25 amps is equal to the Red and White cables combined - 50.35 + 3.05 = 53.4....close enough. The control circuits are 120 volt and cause the minor imbalance.

Measure either the Black or the Red to give you the amps you are pulling. Again, single phase, 240 volts. Measure both Red and Black to see how balanced your load is.
 
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F

Farmitall

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Eubank, KY
SalmonSlayer said:
so to calculate the load i would then add them all up? so in your instance you were drawing a little over 106? that can't be right
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Current remains the same in a series circuit. The circuit being out of the gen, through your load and back to the gen. Its a simple seris circuit and either hot leg will give you the total current being drawn.
No adding of anything.
 
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Ray70

Well-known member
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West greenwich/RI
Not to go too far back into this discussion, but if you are going to stock up on filters, check RockAuto.com there are dozens of compatible oil filters, available for as little as $1.50 ea. if you do some creative searching you can find tons of options. You can also get Wix for about $4. They also have the fuel filters, fuel/water separators, air filters etc. If you buy in bulk and stock up you'll save a fortune.
 
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